Here TWEAK. I bumped this for you.. Just so ya know!


Its not that the anyone doubts what a great motor a LSX is but the problem is with guys like you that really dont know 100% of what you are talking about, coming on this thread and bashing the rotary motor.. seriously?

I think many have proved what they can do. If you do not have the knowledge to make yours work then fine.. the swap was your correct move. But to come back on here and you are basically saying:

"I didn't know enough about rotary's to keep mine from blowing up so I put in an idiot proof motor and its great!"



Chris knows somethings off on his build and everyone is stepping up to help him out...

you want to have a decent mature conversation about a v8/piston engine in a unique 1 of a kind Rx7? Ok let's START... FUCK YOU AND YOUR LS1 PIECE OF SHIT. how is that for mature? you fucking donkies will never get it.

huh, well this is odd for me to just casually come across while surfin the interwebz. Jay is a good buddy of mine. His Volvo is super sick.

the one and only judge has spoken
 

hahahahahaha lolololololol lmfao awh man my ribs hurt:egrin:

400 hp wiping bearings out and a bunch of other stuff DUDE IT'S NOT THE MOTOR it's something else FUEL,TUNING,IGNITION NOT SO MUCH AT 400HP, and last but not least ENGINE BUILDER

judge ito los tiene en la vara papa !!!

In now way would I get offended by that!!I know some problems are because of lack of understanding!but I am trying!!little run down,first engine that ran for two years,bone stock FD with super seals,200 passesand 5000 street miles.it went 9.59 @ 135 with this combo.front main wore out.first engine street port engine flex because only one side of the combustion face hit the rotor housing,second engine studed with guru 1/2 inch studs over torqued because The thrust on he rotor made some spots on the irons.third engine my fault detonation broken front iron,forth engine the rotors and counter weights are the same ones from the previous engine imlapped the irons new RA super seals really nice rotor housings but I used a different E-shaft,I think that is were my problem is,the shaft miked out good but I did not V-block the shaft to check for run-out,wiped out the mains in 40 freeway miles,the front cover o-ring as intact.with the clearance I had in the rotors there was no side interference/contact but the face of the rotor just barely touched the housing,went I post the bearing pics u will wonder how it did not destroy everything

Jay is just a really good guy, havent spoken to him in a couple of years now, next time I am in Reno I am going to drop in and say hi.

It all boils down to know how. The problem is, there is so much good information out there but everyone trys to keep everything a secret. I dont understand it. Every rotary portricans i know so hush hush. for what? Theres a big mis understanding in all the thick minded heads, if i keep secrets ill be on top...wtf were do you get that and how do you figure? how do you know if your going in the wrong direction? you dont, and thats what leads to your situation. No one wants to share good information thats EXACTLY why the rotary is so far behind and everyone bad mouths them. Theres a reaon why theres certain types of cars/engines that stay together for long preriods of time..4G63s, honda Engines, Jz's ect ect ect

Is that not someone semi local that can help you on the next build? But sounds like you know a good bit so may not even be a question on the build yet the tune or supporting mods. I really hate to here your trouble on the past engines. I am pulling for you!

I agree to a part but you have to realize that many have paid there dues thru trial and era and thats what keeps them on top. These are the guys making a living on it or breaking records so you can see the reason.

It's not hard to figure out the "secrets". 99 times out of 100 if you show that you are not just someone looking for a handout and actually show a little loyalty to the rotary engine people will be glad to help. I have fallen down a few times but eventually i always get back up, when people see that they are more inclined to help you out. No disrespect to the OP but why would they want to come in here and let someone know all the secrets just to have them give up and go with a piston engine. People like Ito and Crispeed use to fill this and other forums with precious info but honestly most people take it for granted. The info is out there you just have to look for it. I have literally sat down and red every single post that Ito has made on Nopiston and that Chrispeed has made on here and learned a tremendous amount. I would personally like to thank all of the Veterans of the rotary engine for sharing that info and i would probably still be pulling my hair out without them.

here are some pics from my last failer,this E-shaft does not look like the same as all the other ones i have seen it has a nice machine finish,the rotors barely contacted the housings

the car is a full chassis,chris alston chassis works;four link;fab 9 rear end;mustang two front suspension;c4 transmission PA super comp with a low 2.92 first gear;ring and pinion is a 3.50;it weight of the car with me in it is 2250.1010 pounds on the front axle 1130 on the rear axle;the fuel system has an aeromotive eliminator pump -10 fuel line to the injectors;-6 return;lower XS intake manifold;4 160 pound injectors;the turbo i use started life as a 60-1 high flow;i had my turbo guy install a 72mm compressor wheel;the hot side is a P trim with a 1.05;i am running LS1 coils;the engine management is a heltech E8;the ports are a RB street intake port with the exhaust port ported to the RB race port lowered to create no more over lap as the stock exhaust port would;timing verification goes as fallows;i have a RB duel shiv lower pulley;i installed the pulley made my marks on the flex plate and found out i was about 8 degrees advanced;counter weights are for the rotors used;i am running a reactor aluminium flex plate with the FD rear counter weight;ignition timing is 25 degrees at 8000 rpm at 30 pounds of boost;on the vacuum side of the map i go from about 25 degrees at idle and advance it to 40 degrees by 3000 rpm;i take timing away in a straight line from 40 degrees at 8000 rpm to 25 degrees at30 pounds of boost at 8000 rpm;the e-shaft in this engine was a gsl-se;the bearings are FD mains and stock rotor bearings for the 9.7 to 1 rotors i use,if you would like to know more just ask what i might have missed;shit one more thing i know this is bad but with the R&D i have been doing the parts used in the first three builds were at there wear limits;used but lapped RA super seals;the last build had new RA super seals with the irons having a fresh lap and the rotor housings were 99 per centers

Do you have a oil cooler?

Do you warm up the oil before racing?

IMO you have too much timing.

thanks Allen. and yes this site has turned into a piece of shit. always has but now more then ever. happy new year and wishing you the best for this season.

and id be looking to change your final drive ratio, 4.56 min, are you sure that its 3.50 final drive, what revs were you going through the traps with ?

also is that timing used to make it run correctly, as maybee your crank index mark is still off , as thats a hell pound of timing to run, i have 7 deg max at full boost , maybee 8 with zero split , and our motors are very similar except i run a half bridge port , same injectors an pump , i run mercury coils with cdi ignition , same sort of power i got 400 to 450 hp btu only on 21 psi boost .
but i run sunnoco max nos gasoline, not e85, which would e85 need richer tune than me, and i think your due for cdi ignition at that boost and type of fuel

find a good local engine builder to help you. I see too many issues to address and this may be past what you could handle. I would give Rene franco a call and hook up with him.

+1 on that! I have read all those things too and have them saved on my computer. Thanks guys. :icon_tup:

Chris, if you want I can build your motor or help you build your motor. You sound like you know what your doing though. It's pretty hard to mess up the build so I don't think that is it. The important thing is to get all the clearance issues correct and make sure nothing is warped or bent. Other than that if you had a build issue, you would just have a low compression motor so I don't think it's the build. I would ditch those rotors and just go all fd parts.

they are pretty high compression for that kinda boost and timing , its good your doing it an giving it a go , but no one down my end of the woods recommend that rotor and boost and timing combo , even get your tune checked out buy the guy who offered above , if you can Email it, send it to him

Hi I'm not a expert but do you ck your e- shaft they sometimes are bent and you don't notice. there is a tool to ck the e-shaft run-out.

ck with pineapple racing.

also change the rear end gears.

[QUOTE=jccNV;10399997]Hi I'm not a expert but do you ck your e- shaft they sometimes are bent and you don't notice. there is a tool to ck the e-shaft run-out.

ck with pineapple racing.

also change the rear end gears.[/QUOT

agree... e-shaft bent this is correct need to check this also .....i don't re-use the e-shaft out of a motor if i had just crack the plates ,more than likely it's bent.....

i hate when people put ls1 engines in rx7's......:icon_no2:...go get a red neck mobile...

check list:

Engine mounts rear engine to eliminate flex

engine cold when racing

front iron freeze plugs leak engine water into oil under flex(RARE.... but i had this happen to me with plug falling out pushing water into oil)

Engine running Rich contamination of oil

Engine boost blow by into engine oil,

engine not properly seated side plates or not broken in(fuel pushes mix in oil under high boost)

Oil catch can oil hose too small not enough crank case vent to release boost and fumes.

oil too thin or running synthetic oil(not so good with alternative fuels methanol or ethanol)trust me

Eliminating or modified oil crank jets,oil loose pressure through crank with large orifice(i have used stock untouched and it has work the best for me my opinion)

running restricted oil cooler(stock)

Engine running too much advance under high boost under highest load

Engine flex during hard load excessive low ring gear(higher gear for less load to engine)


other than that,the engine will flex but some of these on the list will help eliminate some of the load to e shaft and contamination of oil.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!