I've been launching at 7200rpms.......I guess I need to try 8000 since thats were life begins! Sounds fun and expensive! I just got 10.5's for the leading, 2nd gen coils, and a MSD SCI w/ 2 step modual. Can't wait to see what happens with 20lbs off the line instead of 12lbs!

 

Im not sure the sci will work on our cars! Someone on here should know.

 

i ran 3 sci box's and all 3 failed (worked nice for a lil while), i now run the stock trailing and one msd coil. Seems to work good

 

I need to know pretty quickly! Anyone know if these boxes work in Rotarys? Seems like they would be a better fit since they are for higher reving engines.

 

they worked but they also went out. One went completely out and the others would throw the timing way off....

 

Why would the SCI go out but the 6AL last? And how the hell would it throw timing way off?

 

I wish i had the knowledge of crisspeed but i dont think ive ever heard of anyone having any luck with that system on a rotary engine. I just hate to see you put it in just to have it go bad. Criss were are you hook a brother up?

 

it wouldn't spark at the time it was supposed to....it was real late....they all went one at a time...just what i went through....some may differ....just my .02

 

I pulled many 1.6xx 60fts on MT DR's and 1.5xx's on slicks

this is with a S4 .......NA ........rearend in my FC...... so how does a fd rear have problems?

an NA diff is tiny and i havent broke anything or half shafts...all i have added is a adjustable pinion snubber, and i wont swap for a TII diff till i break the NA rear

 

Probley becouse your not going 10's! If you are getting 1.50's on slicks but only running in the 11's the h/p is less than that to achive 10's. Plus slicks are buying you some protection as they absorb alot of the shock. When you run 1.52 and 10.8 let me know how that 7'' is holding up.

 

whoa, easy there buddy

once the auto is in and the car is actually tuned ill let you know how the little 7" is doing in the 10's how about?

and last i checked a 1.5 60ft is a 1.5 60ft............

you sound like an idiot with what you are saying above

case and point, read below

so my car runs lets say 12.0 untuned on 13psi with a 1.50 60ft and the launches like a champ

then lets say....

my car is tuned on 25psi and now has the power to trap 130mph once rolling... it is going to run an easy 10 with the exact same launch as used above

if the rear is going to break it will be on the launch....... not rolling down the track, unless you are retarded shifting....

an auto is going in this winter so i am about sure the little 7 inch will make it down well into the 10's, because of the much less graphic launch of an auto car

 

There is a local early gen talon here that is setup with built auto..... and after watching the car run down the track i am aboslutely sold.

i am friends with the cars owner, and the car currently runs 9.90's at only 132mph, with only a 61mm turbo, and weighing just a tad more than my car and with 1.4 60fts

and the car launchs and moves down the track so unviolently it is sick..... not like the manual cars, like mine, that look like they are going to break coming out of the hole and while shifting

just being able to launch with the drivetrain loaded and with boost is huge, not to mention moving down the track and never letting the turbo fall out of boost when shifting,.... which is killing me on the big 42

I know ErnieT stuck with a manual, but what did Lupe end up doing, thought he was going auto

dont know which route though... may try and build a jatco strong enough, or just do a th350 from the get go.... and leaving the 7" till it breaks


oh yeah and to Busted7, the 1.50 60fts were with only 7"wide slicks, if i could of borrowed some 10's i think i could of got into the 1.4's as i was spinning perty well with 7's

 

Call me buddy any time! I didnt mean to get you going, i failed to explain what i meant well. With a 60 ft like yours if you had more h/p and ran tens the extra stress would end up at the diff with the added h/p. I would run the diff to until it breaks. Im running 1.522 on stock axles and 16 year old struts im not changeing anything till i have problems. I would like to talk to you about the auto as i run one in my secound gen, i have some opinions you might like to hear. Eric is not running auto, but he thought about it. Hope to here from you. PM if you wish.

 

ah.. ok

sorry about that i thought you were calling me out


yes info is good.... what are you running in your 2nd gen for an auto?

i have wanted to PM some of the faster guys but am scared to as to not want to hassle them

 

I have a jatco 3 speed with a 2800 stall. Feel free to pm me im just one of the slow guys!

 

I put my car on a dynojet at Hybrid Dynamics in PA today, and to my surprise my max hp was just 342 (torque 309) at 19 psi

Best 1/4 mile ET is 11.28 @122.28 1.58 60ft 19 psi stock turbos, and the back tires spun when I shifted into 2nd, I can do better next time I go, maybe tomorrow.

I guess that's pretty darn good for only 342 hp.

 

I would love to put an auto in but it would not be NHRA or NDRA legal. There is a way to build a stock Mazda auto tranny to work in a FD to hold 600 plus hp but it cost like $5000 and it won't make you any faster.

 

The jatco trannie is mazda auto trannie, and i believe is legal. They run them in Australia but i dont know anyone in the states thats ever done any good with them in a rotary. And you would have some loss of h/p with the auto but i would still like to try it.

 

Was I right on the price? I think this is the one Dan (jigsawrx7) was telling me about. How do I get one?

 

Seriously bro, who care if your transmission isn't NHRA legal. It's not like you or I are campaigning our cars.

Seriously, built it strong so you can enjoy it locally or even for the quick 16 class.