Originally Posted by chookrx
(Post 8451876)
Firstly - Im no big hitter in Rotary Racing in Oz
Here is my experiences with auto's behind rotors - albeit Jatco variety My Rx4 street car - unopened FC 13b - Jatco 3 speed (built), no transbrakes were available at this time (mid 90's) small to4 - 58mm front wheel,1.32rear housing, 6000 stall speed - 7inch convertor,DEEP PAN & always used AMSOIL in the trans, top mount FC intercooler.. This car would happily run 11.4 @ 124 all day, could drive it to & from the track , & bwould happily cruise around at 60kph in top gear in traffic without killing the transmission - nail it & it would flash to 6000 & destroy rear tyres 60ft's apprx 1.5 & was ok to get on stall My RX4 race car - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPAXBJvQTS0 Street ported 20b,std inlet manifolds - 3 x std injectors primary,3 x 1600 secondary, GT45 turbo 66mm front wheel,1.15 rear housing.. (small turbo) once again Jatco 3 speed - 6000 convertor, 4.77 9" rear 31.5x14 tyre. This combo would consistently run 8.9-9.2 all day ..Any conditions Best 60ft 1.17 - that was staying on TB after green Would consistenty 1.20 during racing whilst leaving with good reaction times .45s At the 2005 4/6 & Rotary Nationals I had 8 passes 3 in qualifying & 5 in eliminations -best pass 9.01 - slowest 9.22... I won this event - even against those inconsistent manual equiped rotors!! I Built this car to run 9.00's & race in Bracket events against the V8 crowd - it took me 8 passes to reach this goal & the convertor never came out.. My next aim is 8.00 & have changed transmission to powerglide + a larger turbo one day I wil ahve a track to race at , our home track is closed indefinately & the nearest safe 1/4mile is 900 miles away Dont forget PAC PERFORMANCE RX3 years ago was powerglide & ran 7.60 @ 180ish If I were to build a Pro Car - it would be manual I have also built a street car for a customer with the same specs as my race car Jatco 20b etc - gets driven to & from work & happily does hundreds of km's cruising when the weather permits To you guys building auto Rotars, get you convertor size right, use quality fluid , perfect your start line procedure & you will be UNTOUCHABLE in bracket events Then go & have some fun on the street REgards jason going 11 seconds with a small turbo/tight converter is easy in my opinion.. i had a customer car with a jatco, series 5 13B hybrid turbo and stock converter.. it was consistant but it still didnt 60 foot like a stick car. but it was consistant the bigger the turbo the more lag=less low end= worse 60 foot time and launch waiting for the converter to come up.. bottom line with a 2 rotor a 20B on the other hand is a different story, more low end torque, wich works in favor with an auto.. one last thing, what tranny is most popular with pac performance now? not an auto....... |
Originally Posted by 680RWHP12A
(Post 8452012)
jason, welcome to the rx7 club.. and congrats on your accomplishments.
going 11 seconds with a small turbo/tight converter is easy in my opinion.. i had a customer car with a jatco, series 5 13B hybrid turbo and stock converter.. it was consistant but it still didnt 60 foot like a stick car. but it was consistant the bigger the turbo the more lag=less low end= worse 60 foot time and launch waiting for the converter to come up.. bottom line with a 2 rotor a 20B on the other hand is a different story, more low end torque, wich works in favor with an auto.. one last thing, what tranny is most popular with pac performance now? not an auto....... re Pac's cars ,are we talking street or race?? if street 9 sec & slower Pac have been using jatco & c4 for 13b power cars, a few still sneak through with supra 5 speeds.. Their 20b power (street) usually are Jatco or Powerglide. Anything half chassis the generally go clutchless manual I you get a chance have a look on Ausrotary.com & look in the cars for sale section especially under the username offgutz - he seems to have owned a lot of Pac built cars that run mid to low 9's using 13b's - most are auto One thing re watching vid's of aussie auto rotors - a lot of racers here dont care about reaction times - they generally are going for glory trying to pb... most dont even race at competition type meetings Get that c4 sorted & enjoy PS - 20b's do everything easily, even taking your cash |
Grasshopper you're a nut, lay off the popcorn :lol:
Eric did you try emailing Keas or Al's race glides to see if they'll see you parts to build your own Jatco??? Or are you going with a domestic type tranny insted?? |
Originally Posted by RoTaRyBoYz
(Post 8452077)
Grasshopper you're a nut, lay off the popcorn :lol:
Eric did you try emailing Keas or Al's race glides to see if they'll see you parts to build your own Jatco??? Or are you going with a domestic type tranny insted?? I emailed KEAS for a list a long time ago and have decided to use a C4 instead. I already have a built C4 sitting in the garage and all the parts, I just need to have a converter build which I'm in the process of doing. The original thread starter (tinmann55) is ordering his parts through KEAS to build his Jatco. |
Originally Posted by 680RWHP12A
(Post 8452008)
yup, thats pretty much sums it up for viking war hammer have fun in la-la land queer
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
(Post 8451845)
I sometimes wonder if I'm on a car forum or a Gay Pride Forum.........
I know you're type. I've beaten people like you before. You're the type of person who throws up the "RACE CAR" flag after you've gotten your ass handed to you on the street. You probably thought my old FD wasn't streetable either, since it had a 4 link :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: You know I'm just yanking your chain. I just want to see you at least finish a project sometime in the near future. So far after your FD you have jumped from like 3 or 4 different cars. You can talk all the shit you want and claim you know what your talking about when it comes to auto's and rotaries, but fact is all your knowledge is coming from a few people and watching some youtube vids. Get your shit running down the track with your auto and then you can talk. |
Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
(Post 8452222)
You need a reailty check, Mr Pelosi. Before you go calling someone a queer, you better check which state you're living in first. :lol:
you got me there.. there is a ton of queers in cali, thats for sure.. o-well ,you cant win them all |
Originally Posted by ultimatejay
(Post 8452383)
Oh, c'mon. At least be a good sport.. That was some funny shit I posted earlier. If you can't laugh at that then there is something wrong with you.
You know I'm just yanking your chain. I just want to see you at least finish a project sometime in the near future. So far after your FD you have jumped from like 3 or 4 different cars. You can talk all the shit you want and claim you know what your talking about when it comes to auto's and rotaries, but fact is all your knowledge is coming from a few people and watching some youtube vids. Get your shit running down the track with your auto and then you can talk. With the rotaries and auto's. I'm going by conversations with people from the Aus forum. Since, they actually know what they're talking about. The whole thing with you guys saying you can't run high stall auto's on the streets is just nonsense. I "ride" in them all the time :lol: . Someones gotta set the races up :lol: Maybe the laws of physics are different in AUS, maybe that's how they can succesfully run auto's on the streets. My car might not be done yet, but atleast it runs :lol: |
Eric you know the tranny fluid in aussie land sets in the top thats why they can do it. DUH!:scratch:
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
(Post 8452610)
I know, I know..........
With the rotaries and auto's. I'm going by conversations with people from the Aus forum. Since, they actually know what they're talking about. The whole thing with you guys saying you can't run high stall auto's on the streets is just nonsense. I "ride" in them all the time :lol: . Someones gotta set the races up :lol: Maybe the laws of physics are different in AUS, maybe that's how they can succesfully run auto's on the streets. My car might not be done yet, but atleast it runs :lol: |
Of course the Aussies make it work!!
The tranny fluid flows in a reverse direction just like the toilets & the fact they're using 100% all natural synthetic marsupio oil is a added bonus... line out.. |
Originally Posted by RoTaRyBoYz
(Post 8453263)
Of course the Aussies make it work!!
The tranny fluid flows in a reverse direction just like the toilets & the fact they're using 100% all natural synthetic marsupio oil is a added bonus... line out.. now i know how they do it, im all set then :) ill cal pac performance this week to order up some fresh marcupio oil :) nice :) |
It ships in a convient pouch!
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Thats top secret info I wasn't supposed to give out, so consider yourselves lucky!!!
As Busted just said, the oil is shipped in a convient pouch and not a regular plastic container to avaid plastic "bleed" contamination.. PM me of you are interested on purchasing a case of this award winning technology... BTW, this Oil DOES NOT COMPRESS like the other brand name oils we know. On a stock tranny, your shifts well fell like money on your pocket, because they're nice & firm.. It's strange no one got into specific detail about the positive effects of reverse fluid flow.. Those Aussie blokes are so darn lucky!! #6 circle Gamakatsu, fresh bunker chunks.... cast off |
Squeeze out, it's all about the squeeze out. That and 30w ball bearings.
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Originally Posted by RoTaRyBoYz
(Post 8453263)
Of course the Aussies make it work!!
The tranny fluid flows in a reverse direction just like the toilets & the fact they're using 100% all natural synthetic marsupio oil is a added bonus... line out.. |
Out of all the people I honestly thought you was going to be the fish to bite :rlaugh: ..... I guess I need to change my bait or chase after dumber fish :lol:
Just for the record.... I'm sober today :lol: Eric why don't you Email your questions to SpeedFM.com.au, maybe Anthony Rod(Maztech) might answer it on Wednesday's show.... Do i have to think of everything around here!!!! :lol: |
Can you just email them for me, since you've been the acting mod around here? :)
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UltimateJay
Here are 3 of my Toys , You are welcome to try out either 1 till my real ride get done:) . I would start with the DixieChopper 1st if I was you , just and advice :lol:
[IMG]http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/P8100004.jpg[/IMG] And a few others for you to Enjoy! [IMG]http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/P4170060.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...P4170061-1.jpg[/IMG] |
holy shit, that's a badass mower ! sure beats my old ass lawnboy!!!
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
(Post 8455161)
holy shit, that's a badass mower ! sure beats my old ass lawnboy!!!
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It seems alot of guys are solving their "Lazy Torque" issues with a 3 step.
Have someone pull you up 6" inches before the first beam. Lock the foot brake, switch the trailing coils off, floor the gas while holding a button for the 3 step. Have the 3 step set just before the back wheels wanna turn). Then, back off of the foot brake a little, let it roll into the beams, hit the transbrake (which overrides the foot brake rev limiter and activates its own), let the foot brake go, wait for the light and let go. Problem solved. Races Won. Want to see a example? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4kGxW7D-Bk&NR=1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68r1ss_06RQ |
All this two step and three step is for the birds, I'll stick with my 1 step.
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That mower is badass. I'll take that for a spin anytime. :)
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
(Post 8455902)
It seems alot of guys are solving their "Lazy Torque" issues with a 3 step.
Have someone pull you up 6" inches before the first beam. Lock the foot brake, switch the trailing coils off, floor the gas while holding a button for the 3 step. Have the 3 step set just before the back wheels wanna turn). Then, back off of the foot brake a little, let it roll into the beams, hit the transbrake (which overrides the foot brake rev limiter and activates its own), let the foot brake go, wait for the light and let go. Problem solved. Races Won. Want to see a example? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4kGxW7D-Bk&NR=1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68r1ss_06RQ
Originally Posted by ultimatejay
(Post 8456117)
That mower is badass. I'll take that for a spin anytime. :)
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Originally Posted by ultimatejay
(Post 8451685)
Also, Viking, I have been meaning to ask you. On your first gen that you are building for a street car. How do you plan on driving for any length of time with a tiny radiator and alcohol? I am no alky engine expert but I do know they go thru several gallons on a single 1/4mile run.
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
(Post 8474323)
Just a FYI, ran the car yesterday for an hour. With the car sitting in the garage and the waterpump running. The coolant temps were a steady 110F the entire time. The fan never kicked on.
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Originally Posted by ultimatejay
(Post 8476089)
Cool.
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Originally Posted by 13BT_Starlet
(Post 8477071)
Hey , Jay BUMP ! :lol:
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Originally Posted by ultimatejay
(Post 8478919)
:lol: , Oh man don't get me going on that noob again. What a dueche bag. I think he bumped like three or four fresh threads yesterday. :wallbash:
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The converter shop sent me a HUB to do the measurements but we figured out that it would be easier to get a measurement from a converter that's already done. So, thanks to 13BT Starlet, we found out the stack height is 6.250 :)
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alright, I got the converter and it's on it's way to Dirty Dog Performance
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Get this shit done and proven so I can just copy you.. LOL..
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Heck, the Aussie guys have already proved that this transmission works fantastic
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1 Attachment(s)
Dirty Dog Performance now has my converter. He's going to start on it tonight.
I gave him my old Dyno Graph to go off of. I know it's going to be different than my new setup, but I figured it would give me a good start. He's going to build me a 8 inch converter and based on the graph, recommended me go with a 4600 converter. What do you guys think? Here is the dyno graph I sent him. Attachment 705084 |
Converter
When I built my converter for my car several years ago it took a couple of tries to get it right. The builder was a company called PTC in Alabama by a guy named Kenny Ford. We ended up building a 7" converter for my drag application which was setup to lockup 100% between 5500/6500. It actually started to engage at 3000, but definitely not streetable. Sounds like your making some good progress on your setup. Automatic is definitely the way to go it is much easier on the drive train than the clutchless transmissions and very consistent on the track.
Good Luck |
I had asked him about going with a 7" converter but he didn't know of a 7" core to use. So, we decided on a 8".
I emailed him back about the 4600 converter, wanted to know if it's going to lock up at 4700. So, we'll see what he says. I don't expect to get it right the first time. Did you end up finding a buyer for your old setup? |
No just a lot of people asking questions, but no serious buyers. The crazy part is that it works really well.
The debate will always go on about which is better. These projects are FU#*ing money pits so if the tranny will save you cash on your drivetrain and get you down the track it is money well spent. I selected the higher stall because I was running a 28X9 MT and I thought it work well and not blow away the tires. What size tire are you running on your new 7? Did you go with a reverse pattern shifter or did you stick with the basic? You won't be disappointed I had fun with my car until I took it apart. |
Originally Posted by rotaryengineering
(Post 8520259)
No just a lot of people asking questions, but no serious buyers. The crazy part is that it works really well.
The debate will always go on about which is better. These projects are FU#*ing money pits so if the tranny will save you cash on your drivetrain and get you down the track it is money well spent. I selected the higher stall because I was running a 28X9 MT and I thought it work well and not blow away the tires. What size tire are you running on your new 7? Did you go with a reverse pattern shifter or did you stick with the basic? You won't be disappointed I had fun with my car until I took it apart. Mine has some B&M Hammer Shifter BS. Not sure if I'll keep it or not. Let me know what you think :) |
Eric you know i dont claim to be an expert but i think the stalls to low at that torque range, i would start at 5500 at least but i just had a 3200 and it would not launch for anything. It was like dragging an anchor!:scratch:
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So, my old graph says my peak torque was at 5500 RPM. I hear that your stall needs to be 400-500 less than your peak torque, is this correct?
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Eric,
I would be careful with what most converter shops recommend. Majority of their customer base run V8 powerplants. The first guy I used was guessing and we were way off. The Rotary is a different animal when comes to converters at least that is what I found. It was a learning experience for Mike's Transmission in Palmdale California and PTC. It was actually funny when Mike at the tranny shop put my converter on his test motor he hit the rev limiter before the converter actually locked up. I gave him the specs and he told me that it was a very loose torque converter. It actually worked out well once I got the 3rd converter in the car. Good Luck Albert |
Originally Posted by rotaryengineering
(Post 8520812)
Eric,
I would be careful with what most converter shops recommend. Majority of their customer base run V8 powerplants. The first guy I used was guessing and we were way off. The Rotary is a different animal when comes to converters at least that is what I found. It was a learning experience for Mike's Transmission in Palmdale California and PTC. It was actually funny when Mike at the tranny shop put my converter on his test motor he hit the rev limiter before the converter actually locked up. I gave him the specs and he told me that it was a very loose torque converter. It actually worked out well once I got the 3rd converter in the car. Good Luck Albert |
This is what my converter guy just emailed me,
4600 is the goal at which you won't be able to rev anymore without the wheels turning. c4's don't have a lockup function. I'm going to set yours up with a medium stator so if we need to increase or decrease stall we have room to change easily. |
I asked him if that meant the car wouldn't move until 4600.
He replied with the following. The car will move well at light throttle. Stall speed means with the wheels held the engine cannot rev over 4600 without the wheels moving. Alan |
I would go with a 5500 stall converter
Eric,
Based on your dyno sheet you posted I personally would go with a 5500 stall converter. I started at 4500 and kept bumping it up because it was a slug out of the hole. But it also depends on your engine redline. We all know we can rev the hell out of a Rotary, but what is your engine redline setup for so you don't blow your motor. I don't know all your engine specs, but to keep things on the safe side I never revved my motor past 8,500 and it stayed together for a long time. Going straight up in the air is not the goal so if your new setup is making good torque numbers like your old setup you should be good with a 5500 stall. What RPM did you launch your old setup at with a stick tranny? Probably much higher that 5500 would be my guess. My goal was always to get a decent launch out of my car on the turbo only with a 3 step. It worked well, but I figured if I wanted a better 60' time squeezing it could bring those numbers down quickly. Hope this helps. |
I am running a C4 behind my 13b in my back halved FD here in the UK.I have a stall speed of 5500rpm and i have found that i cannot get car to launch above 3500rpm unless i use gas.I have put a 75 shot of gas on the car which works only on launch.I am launching at approx 5700rpm with the gas on but it takes a while to build up.If i am racing heads up then this is no good,the race is lost.
Could you explain to me what you mean by 3 step please????? |
Originally Posted by rotaryengineering
(Post 8526911)
Eric,
Based on your dyno sheet you posted I personally would go with a 5500 stall converter. I started at 4500 and kept bumping it up because it was a slug out of the hole. But it also depends on your engine redline. We all know we can rev the hell out of a Rotary, but what is your engine redline setup for so you don't blow your motor. I don't know all your engine specs, but to keep things on the safe side I never revved my motor past 8,500 and it stayed together for a long time. Going straight up in the air is not the goal so if your new setup is making good torque numbers like your old setup you should be good with a 5500 stall. What RPM did you launch your old setup at with a stick tranny? Probably much higher that 5500 would be my guess. My goal was always to get a decent launch out of my car on the turbo only with a 3 step. It worked well, but I figured if I wanted a better 60' time squeezing it could bring those numbers down quickly. Hope this helps. I just emailed him back and asked if we can start out with a 5500 converter. We'll see what he says. My redline will probably only be 8,000. I never felt the need to shift at high rpms since my car didn't make much power after 8,000. My last motor, I had best results with only launching it at around 6500-7000. Anything more and it would blow away the tires. Even with that, it still blew away the tires. |
Originally Posted by K1HKSarse
(Post 8527898)
I am running a C4 behind my 13b in my back halved FD here in the UK.I have a stall speed of 5500rpm and i have found that i cannot get car to launch above 3500rpm unless i use gas.I have put a 75 shot of gas on the car which works only on launch.I am launching at approx 5700rpm with the gas on but it takes a while to build up.If i am racing heads up then this is no good,the race is lost.
Could you explain to me what you mean by 3 step please????? What's your 60 foots look like? Got any videos:) ? |
Car is still in the early stages so not a great deal of back up info as yet or video's im afraid.Still on my first converter at the mo.
I havent broke a mota with the gas yet!!!!!!!!!! Shuts off as soon as i let go of transbrake button. Best 60ft to date is 1.4 (Avatar pic) but believe there is more to come as yet. Any ideas how i can get engine to pick up quicker on converter? Whats a 3 step? |
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