It used to work in Gramps Roadmaster, I don't see why it wouldn't work with a C4 :lol:

some pics of my c4 junk
 

some pics for ya, and the rotaryshack master mechanic at work

i forgot a pic of the shifter, here ya go
p.s. if you guys find my cat call me! lol

thanks for the pictures, kinda thought it was weird that you never posted pictures after we asked.......

seriously, your repetitive replies about "race lost" aren't needed.

we know the obvious, and some of us don't want to go through the same old hassle of breaking 5 speed after 5 speed just to say, we like the challenge of shifting....

same with the guys who break rearends left and right, i beleive in changing to parts that are damn bear bulletproof......... whether it be 9 inch or 8.8 . What matters to me is consistancy and reliability.

did you not see the 1st gen c4, he had his setup perfectly. it left straight off the yellow bulb, no waiting....

the guy that went 9.1 @ 147

just my opion but the autos are not efective trannies on the 1350..
The aussies played with them for years before they realized their rivals PR and the lencos, liberties, g-force and jehricos were laying down the big 60ft, 330th and 8th miles...

to make it simple the 1350 is really only 1/8 mile....!!!

you hit the nail on the head my friend :(

ChookRX from AUS runs 1.20 short times. Could nail it on the transbrake on 1st yellow & would leave the line at
approx 6000rpm & 18psi boost , 1.6 seconds to get on full boost!!!! max. Some would say that's decent.

I have stayed out of this thread but have been enjoying the post and comments. But i have to put my 2cents in on this comment. I have to agree with War Hammer on what he said. I have watched the manual guys in my area running rotarys and gforce transmissions tearing up rearends , gears ,and even the Gforce itself so many times this summer i am even more determined to build a reliable ,consistent automatic for my FB all motor car. But i am going with the Jatco 3spd auto instead of the C4.I have contacted Paul O'neill in aus (Keas trannsmissions)and he has agreed to transbrake my valvebody and also build my converter. The rest of the build will be done here under his direction. Sure its going to cost me alot, probably around $3500. But the way i look at it thats money well spent considering i wont be breaking something constantly and thats cheap money compared to a five to 8 grand on a lenco g-force jerico. Its all about consistent ,reliable, runs day in day out.:icon_tup:

and how many people do you see driving around on the streets with their LOUD g-force, lenco etc. etc. ?

I need a trans that's consistent, reliable, streetable and can put the car on the bumper at will.

try driving around your automatic with your 5,000 or 6,000 stall converter on the street and watch what happens, lol not happenening!!
watch your trans oil temp guage go up 20 degrees every 2 blocks...
and who the fuck can hear a tranny over the rotary motor!!
your living in dreamland buddy

I am second on this , I inquired on his car and set up but he ignored the fact !

Plenty of people do it all the time without issues. With the right pan, cooler or coolers.......... temp won't be a problem.

Uh, me and everyone else?

Sorry but 1.20 in todays rotary drag racing scene is child's play or 60foot times for cars running 26x8.5 slicks.....

Just a little history but Bam-bam mazda miata ran 1.0 in the 60ft years ago with 24x10 tires using a G-force tranny... oh and with a 13B 4port on nitrous.

This is why the Ricans are eating up the dragstrips with the rotary engine.

Low performance out of Florida used to run an automatic, he was consistent but
no match for the 5speed cars..this was at the pan-ams in the late 90's

I actually did read it thats why I commented , I thought a lauch consited to reaction time. oh by the way if you pay some close attention to the vids on some of them they are running bracket .

Goodluck with the jerico and have fun working on it !

now your talking from your ass.. loose converter = heat pump = hot trans temps= burned up tranny.. the trand temps clim so quickly you cant believe your eyes.. trust me, im not an internet mechanic
i have the deep aluminum pan along with a ice water cooled tranny cooler and im still worried about burnin the tranny down in a 1/4 mile run.. i know lots of guys that have burned the trannys up, with less stall than 5,000 .. and those are pro built trannys by reputable shops

you sure are right along with that engine ,turbo manifold and the rest ! How did you acomplish 680rwho with that engine set up? fill me in cause if you did 680hp :scratch: mine must make aroud 1300+ hp:lol:

Nobody is saying that a auto is better than a G-Force, etc etc.

We're saying that a auto is a good option for people wanting a upgrade from the stock 5 speed. Most people here can't get out of the 1.50's so most of us would be thrilled with 1.20's, 1.30's or even 1.40's.

If I were building a racecar that I planned to campaign, I would use a high dollar G-force etc. But, for what I do................. a auto seems like a good choice.

Hell, even if I have to sit at the light for a few seconds while the car loads up. I'll still freight train those local mofos :lol: So it's all good ! :) :hahaha:

I bet it is with that advance auto parts brand oil you use .

actually it made 730rwhp at the last dyno session over 6 years ago..
why dont you put your money where your mouth is.. how much you wanna bet? ill match whatever you put up :scratch:

and I "KNOW" friends who run their cars with 5500 stalls on the street. Never gets above 200, fluid isn't dark and they romp the shit out of their cars on a weekly basis. These cars are brought out every weekend........ ON THE STREET.


With so much knowledge and even a full blown setup, I'd atleast think you would know how these cars would react at the light before seeing internet videos.

I have the transbrake so I am good , I don't have to wait for the converter to build up . my tanny has the PA transbrake it would be just like leaving on a manual .

i guess you dont now much either.. its a custom blend, the tranny builder manufactures his own oil.. he also warrantys the tranny once if you melt it down..

the transbrake has nothing to do with the converter, LOL

I will be glad too , when it done you will be the first one to know . I'll be glad to have you as my test dummy ! MONEY is not a problem for me I could lone you some but interest will be a little high and require collateral

Thats your answer to your high oil temp , the custom blend .

oh forgot to mention , I am still working my way to your title Mechanical Engineer know it all !

When are you planning on hitting the 9's ? oh and a quick question weren't you that crook from long time ago with rotaryperformance selling those blowthru webber set up that rip off alot of ppl on the internet .

Get it while it's hot.

http://www.familyrecroom.com/images/popcorn.JPG

what the hell are you talking about?
you stated the cheapo auto brand oil is why the trannys were blowing up and i stated even with the best oil the trannys still burn up

Hey Thanks 13B-RX3 I was waiting for some one to come thru with the popcorn :lol: This soap opra is getting good:hahaha:

no?!
but i know who your talking about
it does seem like your working to the title of "i know nothing dumb shit". if you think your transbrake is going to solve your converter issues

I did not say that you did , you said you wasn't a internet mec so you must have a title . so I am going to work on my title so I can meet your expectations !

Are you sure you are not the same guy ? you don't sound convinceing at all :scratch: !

this thread has a few perfect examples of how a good education is priceless.. SCHOOL IS IMPORTANT!!

try learning a little

links

http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/Torq...ter%20Tech.htm
some very accurate info

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...rter-info.html

I really don't care about the info you just posted you just wasted your time looking up things I already know just because I post stupid post letting you hear what you want doesn't mean I dont know anything I am actually alot smarter than you if you come to think about it , with all the spooling prob I am going to have I am till going to knock A WHOLE in that pentie you ware . like I told you when its done you will be the fisrt one to know .

a perfect reply proving your ignorance, thank you
i did not waste my time looking up info as i am trying to learn as mush as i can. i want to learn, to try to help others as well as myself.. again EDUCATION IS IMPORTANT :)
p.s. i tried using the google lauange tools and im still having a problem translating what your trying to say.. sorry

Wow, internet links. Try a little learning? How about you try a little real world experience with your "unstreetable autos".

i definatly dont have any personal racing expierience with an automatic transmission, but i have lots of friends that do and again im learning alot too..
if your ever on the west coast you should come to a PSCA event.. lots of fun

well after all , are you the old rotaryperformance scamist that's still trying to break into the 9's with everyone else's money because its the only way he could build a car by ripping ppl off and still couldn't . OH for your info english is my second language !

maybe that's why you are discouraged with the AT Tranny due to the lack of expierience you should learn of it and perfect whatever wrong you find on it and make it perform the way you want it too .

abviously you understood every word , you replied !

I ride in "streetcars" with 5500 stalls on a monthly basis. When setup right, they can be very fun on the street as long as it's not wet.

http://www.pscaracing.com/

The Wildstreet and Outlaw 10.5 is where it's at.

This is our local guy, that runs a 5500 stall C4 stall on the street. He competes in the Wild Street Classes and has gone 8.80's in his 4 cyl. He also went on the 1600 mile drag week cruise.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/H...urbo_46283.htm

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/J...urbo_73831.htm

Please don't close this, there is good information in this thread.

Another cool video of a local C4 street car, 5500 stall and C4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnW4W6ot5kY

I admire you guys for trying to make an automatic with a 5500-6000 stall converter streetable but it's not. You may be able to drive it down the block or a couple of miles etc' but there's no way in hell that it is streetable. You're kidding yourself if you believe this. Also, v8's have alot more low end torque so it would be a little easier driving a v8 on the street with a high stall-but by no means streetable. But a rotary that has crappy low end torque and then you are going to spool the turbo up to 6000rpm and then the torque converter is going to grab and you're going to snap your neck back or hit the person in front of you. It's just not going to work. Maybe drive down the street and back or a couple of blocks. I would like to see you drive that car over here in Cali on the 91 freeway between 5pm and 7pm in stop and go traffic. I am not baggin on auto's. Most of the v8 guys use them and they are very reliable. Just for rotaries it seems to take alot more work to get them to work right. There's are reason 99.9 % of all rotary drag racers are using manual type trans. Like I said before if this is what you like and want to do more power to you. Let us know how it turns out.

Also, Viking, I have been meaning to ask you. On your first gen that you are building for a street car. How do you plan on driving for any length of time with a tiny radiator and alcohol? I am no alky engine expert but I do know they go thru several gallons on a single 1/4mile run.

13bT_Starlet. I by no means have a fancy trans right now. Never said I did. I am currently installing a 9" in my rx2 with a TII trans. as this is all I can afford right now. When I can scrape some money up I will eventually get a Gerrico, liberty, etc.
But as requested, here is a vid of me and my duece with a first gen trans. and stock rearend with a 12abp. I built and setup everything on this car myself. My next project is going to be the fastest 12a N/A .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wazGzisCObM

That's some fast shifting you're doing there :lol: ......... now try that with some power :wallbash:


I'm not running alcohol, who told you that? :lol:


Some of the AUSSIE guys are coming over to tell you guys what's up. :)

I was not trying to power shift or shift fast in that vid. That actually was just a test run down a street by my house to do some tunning/checking. So yeah, I was granny shifting. :)

For some reason I thought you were using alky. Ok, tiny radiator and E85, 5500stall and if you really want it streetable throw in a rearend with a full spool too? LOL

Actually, I do have a Moser Spool. Are you going to tell me that can't be street driven as well? :lol: :lol: :lol:

Anything can be driven on the street. There's vids of outlaw class mustangs that are doing 4 seconds in the 8th that go thru the drivethru at Burgerking. I guess it all depends on what you call "streetable". I call streetable a car that can be daily driven in wet/dry weather conditions for any desirable distances, etc. I guess you have a totally different perspective than me. It's called fantasy land or is that Fantasy island. This must be you in your "streetable car". :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I sometimes wonder if I'm on a car forum or a Gay Pride Forum.........

I know you're type. I've beaten people like you before. You're the type of person who throws up the "RACE CAR" flag after you've gotten your ass handed to you on the street.

You probably thought my old FD wasn't streetable either, since it had a 4 link :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

the auto debate
 

Firstly - Im no big hitter in Rotary Racing in Oz

Here is my experiences with auto's behind rotors - albeit Jatco variety

My Rx4 street car - unopened FC 13b - Jatco 3 speed (built), no transbrakes were available at this time (mid 90's) small to4 - 58mm front wheel,1.32rear housing,
6000 stall speed - 7inch convertor,DEEP PAN & always used AMSOIL in the trans, top mount FC intercooler..

This car would happily run 11.4 @ 124 all day, could drive it to & from the track ,
& bwould happily cruise around at 60kph in top gear in traffic without killing the transmission - nail it & it would flash to 6000 & destroy rear tyres
60ft's apprx 1.5 & was ok to get on stall

My RX4 race car - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPAXBJvQTS0

Street ported 20b,std inlet manifolds - 3 x std injectors primary,3 x 1600 secondary, GT45 turbo 66mm front wheel,1.15 rear housing.. (small turbo)
once again Jatco 3 speed - 6000 convertor, 4.77 9" rear 31.5x14 tyre.
This combo would consistently run 8.9-9.2 all day ..Any conditions
Best 60ft 1.17 - that was staying on TB after green
Would consistenty 1.20 during racing whilst leaving with good reaction times .45s

At the 2005 4/6 & Rotary Nationals I had 8 passes
3 in qualifying & 5 in eliminations -best pass 9.01 - slowest 9.22... I won this event - even against those inconsistent manual equiped rotors!!

I Built this car to run 9.00's & race in Bracket events against the V8 crowd - it took me 8 passes to reach this goal & the convertor never came out..
My next aim is 8.00 & have changed transmission to powerglide + a larger turbo
one day I wil ahve a track to race at , our home track is closed indefinately & the nearest safe 1/4mile is 900 miles away

Dont forget PAC PERFORMANCE RX3 years ago was powerglide & ran 7.60 @ 180ish

If I were to build a Pro Car - it would be manual

I have also built a street car for a customer with the same specs as my race car
Jatco 20b etc - gets driven to & from work & happily does hundreds of km's cruising when the weather permits

To you guys building auto Rotars, get you convertor size right, use quality fluid ,
perfect your start line procedure & you will be UNTOUCHABLE in bracket events

Then go & have some fun on the street

REgards
jason

yup, thats pretty much sums it up for viking war hammer have fun in la-la land queer