S4 stock block w/s475 turbo? If you ever need help with a T2 motor just let me know? My Fb is in KC right now and I should be on the dyno in Mid April, trying to get it done for IFO in KC on May3.

 

I'm still deciding on what to do. Put some thick cast S5 plates in my motor, buy a RE motor or buy a REW motor.

The first choice is alot cheaper. Hmm

 

Looks very mean! Why radials?

 

[QUOTE=Viking War Hammer;9084315]I'm still deciding on what to do. Put some thick cast S5 plates in my motor, buy a RE motor or buy a REW motor.




The S5 rear iron is still thin compare to the REW, you can dowel the S4 or S5 motor. The guy in KC that ran the 9.6x on the rx3 dowelled his motor, before he breaks rear iron every other week at the strip. I think the cheapest would be the rew motor since you won't have to worry the rear iron breaking.

 

I got all three REW plates (untouched), and a JW intake mani (brand new) I will sell you. $400.

 

Because I wanted something that will tread a little water. My old ET Streets were too scary to drive in the rain.

 

I hear you bro... I think anyone attemting this, should get a unwelded chassis kit and just replace everything. I saw someone doing a rear chassis a few years ago and it looked pretty straight forward.
He make sure the car was level on jack stands, then the other important part was making sure the frame rails are squared with the xmember. Locating the axle's center point in relation to the wheel arch was also simple.

I would like to attempt something like this one day, but I need someone by my side to coach me incase I screw up

 

Looks good Eric. Now after you get the engine running, you have to take it and dial the chassis in at the track/street- another adventure.

 

sounds to me that you r your worst enemy *** btw do you still know that guy FRANKIE FEAR

 

Good deal, but not on my list of to do things right now.

 

That looks hawt.

Please tell me you have different rims for the front.

Keep up the good work, its looking awesome!

 

Nope, no different rims for the front. Just those enkies.

One day, I'll get some wheels for the front but those are on the bottom of my list.

I might paint them black this weekend?

 

Black might look better. I think they just look goofy with that offset compared to the sexual-ness of the rear rims.

 

it's settled then, I'm gonna throw some black on em tonight

 

Props man, I wish I had the knowledge and skills to build that kind of set-up. Looks great. Wouldn't be a bad idea to grab that REW setup, with a 475, it's only a matter of time before the boost lust leads to cracking that rear iron...

 

Eric, if you're tight on money right now, like me, and this is just my preference, I would throw some spare wheel skinnies on the front and paint them black. Sorry, but I'm going to be honest and tell you those enkies are butt ugly, especially with the wheels you have on the back.

 

Honestly, I'm not that worried about it right now. Money isn't the issue, finding the right wheel combo is my problem. I'm not sure if I want a one peice, two peice or spindle setup up front. My main concern right now is getting it on the dyno.

Oh, and I painted the wheels black tonight

 

BTW, anyone know what offset wheel fits a FB up front? 4 inch wide...

 

pics?

 

will get pictures today. I need a dang driveshaft. Got the seats in, brakes bled and everything. I want to go for a drive....

 

for what they are, better or no?

 

Yeah, I like it a bit better....its tolerable now

 

Yeah, I only like it better because it makes it harder to see them.

I need to figure out what size wheels fit up front. Backspace etc. etc for a 15x4 wheel

 

Depends on the lug pattern you have up front... 4x110 or 4x114.3.
The 4x114.3 uses a 38mm offset and/or 4 1/2 inch backspace.
Not sure on the 4x110...

L8R

 

I'm looking at getting a set of Summit 15x4 wheels for the front of my FB. They have a 1.75" back spacing.
Summit part number is SUM-521-5465PS They're $85 each lol.