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Originally Posted by kabooski
why Ari or anyone else in the USA
has YET! to try a perfectly NHRA SRWD legal Mazda "Jatco" tranny found in either a 3 speed early 79-83 or Turbo II automatics which are imported here like crazy and mostly thrown away.. 1. Price (maybe) 2. and most importantly, time involved to get it right mid season. Also, that R100 seems to have a transbrake. Unfortunately, can't run one in SRWD. I haven't heard about the Jatco tranny yet. Thanks for the info. |
[QUOTE=I am using a stock flywheel, act clutch with a 6 puck hub. I think I am going to try to spin the wheels a little more off the line with 16s (instead of 15s), and a softer suspension to bite less. I would love to get your opinion on options. Thanks for your input.[/QUOTE]
That was what I was going to suggest. You car sounds almost like it's a slight bog off the line. A little too low on the launch will cause a dead hook and break parts. It also kills the 'et' because the car will take some time to recover. You can try increasing the tire pressure as long as it don't effect traction further down on the track. What you really need to do is to look into a slipper or adjustable clutch. There's another trick that involves using a pressurised cyl ram on the clutch pedal to control release rate. The bike and 'fwd' people have been using that for many years with great success. You'll deffinitly need some type of slipper clutch for that to work successfully. Tilton Carbon! :) Check out the launch on this 9 sec Nitto drag radial FC. Notice the switch over to high boost in 2nd gear. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c...a2265360cf.htm |
Originally Posted by Dan Schechter
I haven't heard about the Jatco tranny yet. Thanks for the info.
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Originally Posted by kabooski
To help with take off with a auto
a Nice shot of N20 does the trick as evidence by the boostlogic supra that takes off harder then any supra TH400/PG outthere 1.3 60's including Titans cause unlike any other it uses N20 as a launch tool Not to start anything but this is not completely true. All of the top Supra's use nos outta the hole. It's the only way to spool the big turbos with the auto.....or the best way i should say. We (Virtual Works) hit the same 60's as the BL car with 400#'s more weight...... we hit it with 150 to stage and 225 with a NX controller to bring it in smoothly. We've kinda hit a wall lately with turbos. We've broken every turbo that has gone on the car lately. 4 turbos total.......(2) 47-88's and (2) 55-88's. Once we get that worked out with the turbo manufacturer we'll be in the 7's for sure. Sorry to get so far off track......just trying to clarify something. |
Originally Posted by crispeed
That was what I was going to suggest. You car sounds almost like it's a slight bog off the line. A little too low on the launch will cause a dead hook and break parts. It also kills the 'et' because the car will take some time to recover.
You can try increasing the tire pressure as long as it don't effect traction further down on the track. What you really need to do is to look into a slipper or adjustable clutch. There's another trick that involves using a pressurised cyl ram on the clutch pedal to control release rate. The bike and 'fwd' people have been using that for many years with great success. You'll deffinitly need some type of slipper clutch for that to work successfully. Tilton Carbon! :) |
[QUOTE=crispeed]
Originally Posted by I am using a stock flywheel, act clutch with a 6 puck hub. I think I am going to try to spin the wheels a little more off the line with 16s (instead of 15s), and a softer suspension to bite less. I would love to get your opinion on options. Thanks for your input.[/QUOTE
That was what I was going to suggest. You car sounds almost like it's a slight bog off the line. A little too low on the launch will cause a dead hook and break parts. It also kills the 'et' because the car will take some time to recover. You can try increasing the tire pressure as long as it don't effect traction further down on the track. What you really need to do is to look into a slipper or adjustable clutch. There's another trick that involves using a pressurised cyl ram on the clutch pedal to control release rate. The bike and 'fwd' people have been using that for many years with great success. You'll deffinitly need some type of slipper clutch for that to work successfully. Tilton Carbon! :) Check out the launch on this 9 sec Nitto drag radial FC. Notice the switch over to high boost in 2nd gear. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c...a2265360cf.htm |
Originally Posted by LUPE
Anyone else having problems viewing this video? All I have is sound.
That makes two of us. I have no clue what happened. At lesat it sounds interesting. :) |
Originally Posted by crispeed
That makes two of us. I have no clue what happened.
At lesat it sounds interesting. :) |
Here's another one of the same car.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1...af4e32148c.htm And the first one again. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/6...f88f473181.htm |
Nice FD.
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I think that a GM 4L60E or 4L65E, would make a great automatic for Hi HP rotarys they have come a long way in upgrades for them, some of the guys are hitting them with over 500ft.lbs. and the race trans co. in Fl. ( cant remember the name its in south fl. ROCKLEDGE FL.) used to make an adaptor plate 13b to chevy bolt pattern, but stopped because of lack of interest. if its of interest,, the FWD COBALT DRAG cars with autos use a lot of internal parts from the 4L65Es and they shift them with toggle switches on a small panel close to the lever. NOW! I thought that was pretty cool. and you can get a slew of different convertors to fit any combination! check out GM performance automatic trans. you might be surprised. THX Ron
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