I had a Kaaz that I was planning on putting in but plans have changed so I was talking to some friends and they are recommending maybe I should try using the T2 rear because they bolt right in, its a clutch type diff, and is a little cheaper which is always a bonus. My question is who here is using this setup and what kind of results are you seeing, in terms of driveability, for the draggers out there how are they holding up to really hard launches and 60' times. Also does anyone know if it is a true 1.5 lsd or what. Any info is much appreciated so thanks in advance!!

Joe

 

The TII LSD is very strong and will hold up to a lot of abuse. Mid 9 sec runs with no problems. It's not the strogest LSD by all means in terms of equal power to both rear wheels but it's a good compromise when you factor in the cost of a Kazz unit. The TII LSD is also eaiser on the axles and Cv's.

 

Thanks Crispeed for your input and if you don't mind explain what you are reffering to that the T2's are easier on the axles and cv's. I was told that I should look for the T2 diff's out of a '87 to '88 only because they are different in the later years. Thanks for all your help.

Joe

 

yes. series 4 t2 diffs are clutch type, series 5 are viscous.

 

How soon do you need it? My car just caught on fire, though mine probably needs a new clutch.

 

Hehe...did the 1st one years ago

Open up the FD diff and replace it with a 87-88 Turbo II diff using FD bearings and spacers. It should drop right in with no complications.

Wish I had done mine last year before I split the casing like an eggshell. But was done after replacing the casing and it's been together for a year now with many drag launches.

Good Luck

 

My guess is its easier on axels and CV's since its a clutch type. The clutches probably give/slip a little and absorb the impact of the launch

 

this is my RX4 and so fare the only thing I've done to hurt it was trying to do a@nd gear hole shoot and pulled the seface off of thr fly wheel and plate.I'm useing a real old OME disk

 

i have one i couldn't break it !!!!

much quieter than a kaaz too

 

A little off topic, but what kind of torque numbers does anyone think (or know) these differentials can handle?

 

I've put 549 RWTQ through it at 9000 rpm launches and it survived. Now the ring & pinion, housing, axles and cv's are another story.

 

does this maintain the FD ring and pinion or do you have to switch to T2 r&p?

 

For those who are interested I have a few BRAND NEW S4 TII LSD UNITS in the box from mazda.

 

uh how much? is it easy to install?

 

It is VERY easy to install , if its new , you should buy new bearings and have them pressed on , bolt on the ring gear which fits exactly then put in the assembly with the spacers and the bearing caps just as it came out , there isn't any need to set backlash with shimms even . I did mine and the hardest thing for me was removing and replacing the diff ,since I don't have a lift at home , also the correct torque specs for the bolts are important , I couldn't find it so I just checked the bolt ratings and general torquing figures for such bolts .

 

>does this maintain the FD ring and pinion or do you have to switch to T2 r&p?<

YES, you reuse the the FD ring and pinion. TurboII pinion is much longer.

Only thing being replaced is the actual diff. Either replace or reuse(if good) the FD bearings on it. There's some difference between the TurboII and FD bearings.

The pinion is left alone.......Loosen and remove the bearing caps (mark the bearing caps, spacers and bearing races so everything goes back to original place). Pull the FD diff out....remove bearings from FD diff if good.... if not replace. Dop in TurboII diff with FD ring/ bearings....bearings caps.....reseal it and back in the car..

Good Luck

 

This sounds like a step backwards for FD owners...
The stock clutch-type LSD on the Zenki FC's do not last very long. Typically, the clutch plates wear out within 30k to 50k miles! Most of the stock LSD'd out there are very worn out and don't even work. There are lots of nice aftermarket alternatives out there, so why not use them? KAAZ, Cusco, OS Giken all makes very nice units...

-Ted

 

>The stock clutch-type LSD on the Zenki FC's do not last very long. Typically, the clutch plates wear out within 30k to 50k miles! <

Sorry....but if maintained they outlast the car itself.

The FC diff in my FD actually has over 80k miles and it works like a charm
1.49 60ft's on Et streets or 1.58 60ft on Nittos.....can't ask for better.

JD

 

I've been in several Zenki FC's that had an average of 50k to 60k miles, and all of them had failing LSD's. I guess the ones I've been in are a little more abused.


-Ted

 

Ted...very possible.

My Turbo II received its fair share of abuse and the diff was original......ring and pinion was a different case

The aftermarket does offer nice units mainly with abuse in mind !!!!....like you mentioned.

JD

 

hey i just called malloys' mazda and the guy said they don't make the lsd for the tII's anymore. wtf. so i was like what do you do when you break it. he said junk yard or aftermarket. where are you guys getting your new ones and how much?

 

I have 5 New ones available.

 

So what about buying a old one from a junk yard and replacing the clutchs? Are there any real good aftermarket clutchs for it or are you just screwed when they wear out?

Also, does the car feel any different with that diff in there?

STEPHEN

 

i want one but just trying to figure how much i should pay for one. i will let you know soon. I guess u didn't like my offer of 350 shipped how's 375 shipped hey joe didn't mean to hijack your thread. how's your car. almost done right. let me know when you guys head on over to the dyno. i wanna come and look. kvn

do i need these?

http://www.mazdaformance.com/rx7.htm

the differential mounts? it's under mazdaspeed /jdm section.

 

The price of new clutches are the same as a complete and brand new unit from banzaitoyata!!, I know I checked around before I got one from him.