Huh? Please explain. Damn, I love all this input. I really don't want to have to rebuild this thing a 3rd time.
The counterweight does'nt touch the pump gear/chain if that's what your talking about.

 

No, but the counterweight gets slammed if a seal gets thrown. You'll know to check it if you can't get the correct end clearance. It will eat an oil pump in less than 10 min if you don't have that right.

 

Yes I have build quite a few engines. Many of them high rpm BP like yours. Looking at your ports I really cant see them to well with that picture that you have here. Intake opening looks good from what I could see. take a better picture(closer pic) if you can. Could you find yourself a nice used complete 86 engine? let me know if you can. From that point on Ill give you a nice remedy for some reliable clearanced high rpm BP engine. I will reply after your reply and advice some ways to build your BP back again.

 

I guess I could find one, but would I be using the side housings even though they have six ports? I have in my storage a complete set of 87 turbo side housings, 91 turbo sidehousings and rotor housings, 87 and 91 turbo e-shafts, a 91 turbo intake manifold and 91 turbo rotors. I'd almost be willing to build a turbo(compression)motor and somehow use my existing RB Holley setup for a 4 port and exhaust. Theres a guy in LA with a 8.4 compression motor with 5k miles on it for $1000. Could I buy this and put my carb setup on it for now? I know it will be slow but I am aquiring turbo components to go turbo someday. I've allready got a line on some housings for this N/A BP, they should be purchased by Sat. If you could get back to me and advise on what would be a quick fix and also the best for down the road, I'd appreciate it. Thank ITO. It's frustrating when you know there's a problem and no one answers your post.

 

Ok stay using your current set up.(12A plates and gsl-se rotor housings) Find a good 86 to 88 6port engine. Take it apart and label the REAR ROTOR with the letter R and the FRONT ROTOR with the letter F. This is only for the sole purpose of bearing clearance. When you take the rotors apart to clean them, make sure you don't mix the f&R rotors. Assemble the engine back using the Front rotor and Rear rotor exactly how you took the engine apart. From this point, if the engine you took apart has a good front main bearing, reuse that bearing. For the rear main bearing I highly suggest you install a 3 window Racing Beat bearing. I have found that it is not necessary to re-balance a BP engine up to 9500rpm, as long as the rotating parts were intended to be used together by Mazda. Don't forget to use the front counter weight and flywheel that came with that 86 to 88 6port engine you purchase. I have stopped using the front timing cover gasket. I use the front cover to front housing with the O-Ring and some "Silicon seal" on the sealing surface of the front cover. This reduces the chance of leakage and reducing your oil pressure. Use the $18.00 pellet it works fine. I personally Plug my e-shafts. Just take your time and properly clean and clearance your sideseals to rotor groove, side seals to corner seals, apex seals to rotor groove, apex seals to rotor housings(width) and most importantly your end play clearance and you will have a super reliable engine. (I like my end play @ .002 to .0025 of an inch.) any more question shoot ahead. I hope this has helped you a little.

 

Actually that has helped alot. Thanks.
I'll post some pics of my ports this weekend.

 

I just recieved another set of 89+ rotors, so I'll probably just use them. What do you mean side seal to rotor groove clearance? How would you adj that anyways? Did you mean sideseal to corner seal? Also apex seals to rotor groove? How would I adj. that?

 

Take your side seal, after you clean your rotors and place it in the groove with out the side seal spring. At this point take a feeler gauge .0015 of an inch. and you should be able to slide that feeler gauge in between the sideseal and the rotor from one point of the seal to the other end. Same goes for your apex seal to rotor groove clearance. after you clean the rotor groove place the apex seal in the groove and take a .002 of an inch. and slide it from one side of the rotor to the other side. (Note make sure the feeler gauge slides smooth behind the apex seal) If is to tight, feeler gauge will not slide from one point to another, you have to clearance it. I use a nice 1mm file I purchased from Snap-On Tool truck.

 

They should start a new section of this forum just for rebuilding a rotory. I mean everyone claims to be a rotary enthusiast in here, screaming and shouting anytime someone wants to put a V8 in their car. If were so into this motor then there should be a place in this forum where builder tips and specs can be shared. I think this is about the most educational thread I've ever read along with Voskos thread on tuning his HKS EBC. That was pretty good to. If I only had a turbo. I'll post pics of my ports tomorrow, please evaluate them and tell me if they suck or not. My first motor never seemed that fast although i did kill a 740 on the freeway.

 

Good point on engine building tips. The problem is not everybody is so friendly. I really try to help. I have nothing to loose and everything to gain. A friend here a friend there goes a long way. Ill check out your pics and try to give you some constructive critisizm.

P.S. I'm really into this little engine I have nothing but some serious passion for this wankel engine. I have a little phrase I love: "I did not choose the Rotary Engine. The Rotary Engine choose me".

 

I love it!

I second the motion for a Rotary Internals forum! And, I gotta brag on the Judge, he helped me through my BP - he's good ppl.

Steve C.

 

Hardened stationaries, or not? And what would you consider an acceptable bearing clearance if mixing and matching parts?

 

I have gotten great results both ways. With and with out hardned gears. depends the type of racing your going to be involved with. Imsa,Scca ect,etc. If your going to road race I would suggest hardened gears. Drag Racing I have had some good results with the factory gears and the 3 window bearings. Clearance on the bearings I would suggest .0025 to .003 of an inch.

 

Here are some more pics of the porting. Please let me know what you think. Thank you for any input.

 

More.

 

Next,

 

Gettin late gotta go. I'll post more pics of the runners tomorrow. Please give input. Should I go larger on the Main port?

 

Some runner pics.

 

..

 

..

 

..

 

looks like a good job. Your runners are nice and smooth. I see you ported into the coolant seal. Are you having any problems with water creeping in to the spark plugs? Only thing I see that you could improve in, is a little more detail to the closing timing of the bridgeport(upper area). try to get as much flow as possible. That engine must sound nice and loud. Brap,brap,brap. I think we should have a Rotary noise thread.

 

It was pretty loud. Which I like. Sounded like a heavily cammed big block, real deep when idling, and very crisp in the upper rpm ranges. Almost like you can hear each pop. It had a very loud drone around at 4k. You could'nt keep it like that for too long though. you had to either speed up or slow down.
But you don't see anything wrong with the port, seen in 0032? If you look, the area just under the penny is actually part of the port. Could I open that up for a longer secondary port? If you look at 0022 through the secondary port you only see about and inch of runner access. Even though the timing is later closing than you see most bridges, the depth of the port is restricted by the closeness of the water jacket. Here's another bridgeport pic I found from Pineapple. Theres does'nt go up as far and is lower on the secondary which would access the runner more. Would'nt this give more flow mid way through the port opening. Mine just gives flow in the later stages of the port opening but due to the depth the flow is limited.

 

id leave the late timmign and got a lil lower,.. dont listen to me though listen to Ito, he has way, way, way more experience than me, i do see what your saying about accessing more runner too,..

 

Ok, finally got this thing fired up again. Still a little worried about the oil pressure. Since the carb is not yet set, I have to keep it idling myself to keep it running, at or around 1700rpm. At this rpm oil pressure is at 45psi. If I rev it up to 3k it goes up to about 65-75. With the 17mm pump, shimmed oil press. regulators at .250" and an Atkins thermal pellet does this seem normal? I am perectly fine with pulling this motor to inspect the oiling system. Let me know what you think?