CRC Fabrication by your house will make them for your car for $30.00 Its nothing more than aluminium stock, drilled through. Bolt and nut and your done.

 

Okay, here we go with the 3rd gen mount pictorial. Here is what the bracket looks like after the stock rubber has completely let go. All the residual rubber has to be cleaned off. I used a razor and as wire cup brush on an angle grinder. It smells like your are out at the track when you wire it off.

 

Here is after the bracket is clean and ready to fit the mount.

 

Notice on the bottom side of the mount where it has the recess. I hate that because if you use a small washer in there and torque down you will end up with a busted bracket. It is not a clean taper so an angle head bolt would not work without cutting a good taper first.
But at the top there is a ledge that a heavy washer would sit very well. Unfortunately I am not sure what kind of clearance is available on the car. The bolt head may or may not be in the way.

Below is a mount with a recess to allow the "nub" to pass into the mount and sit flush.

 

I forgot to mention I made the hole to fit up to a 12mm by request of Brian Cane. I liked it more so I did all the mounts like that.
If you have transfer punches available a 31/64 will slide through the hole. Give it a whack to mark the drill point.
Drill the hole and your ready.

 

Here is where you can see how a bolt and washer would sit. The washer would need to be thick enough that it can take some torque without bending. The washer does not have material under it in one area that would allow a thin washer to distort.

 

Hey Scaliwag, if you were to make a large delrin disc like the aluminum mounts that you made, would there still have to be metal cap pieces like the stock ones?

 

Delrin is so expensive even in raw material that I have avoided it. So I have not had any direct experience with it.
I have seen bushings made out of it but not motor mounts. The thing to consider is that if you use any mount that uses a similar bolt-up to these it will not matter a lot on what you use as long as it is strong enough. Think of this type of mount as a spacer because there is no cushion value.
When you dissect a stock motor mount there is the rubber separation between the two mount points. If it was a solid bolt running through the rubber it would become a solid mount for all intents and purposes.
You would have to tighten the bolt so it did not have any play. If play was there it would wear both the bolt and the holes they are in.
So Delrin, steel, aluminum when used as a spacer are all going to be the same result in the end.
If you look at the 3 in terms of cost to make the steel in cheapest, followed by aluminum, followed by Delrin (by a long shot ) Generally steel weighs 3 times more than aluminum and is a little harder on tooling to machine. If you were making these for yourself you may as well use steel if you can't find some aluminum drop at a scrap yard.
But if you were making these for other people and you consider the extra weight in terms of additional shipping cost then the aluminum is the most practical. Unless your out walking your dog and run across a piece of 2.5 to 3" Delrin I cannot see a scenario to justify using it.
If you are doing these for yourself it is just a matter of finding something that will work and the cheaper the better.

 

How much for FD mounts?

 

$70 plus $5 shipping

 

That's TOO cheap for them rich 3rd gen guys

 

okay $175 then j/k

 

FC, FD...how about an FB??? I'm concidering it also, can you make one for an FB and if so how much would it cost?

 

I don't have an FB available to look at. If you have a pic and some dimensions that you help. I don't get a lot of requests for FB stuff.

 

There was some guy on this forum who used hockey pucks as solid mounts....lol

 

HOlly SHIZNIT, that''s FUNNY

 

Got some shipped today so we should have some posts soon on them

 

I know exactly who your talking about. He told me to do that a couple of years ago. I also know that Adam Suwatari used the same thing many years ago.

 

The amount of interest is amazing. I tried selling solid mounts like that about two years ago on this forum and basically got laughed at because of what I chalk up to the general ignorance of the common member on this board. I guess the market is here now, all the better.

Funny thing I later learned is a bunch of the top road race guys use stock mounts in their cars because they can gain stiffness through suspension tweeks instead of solid mounts that put more stress on expensive race drivetrains. When a driver flubs a heel/toe on corner entry and puts a shock through everything spinning, the rubber mounts can absorb most of the strain and he can drive to the next corner without grenading a rearend.

I believe certain advantages can be gained by solid mounts (stiffness, chassis feel, etc.), but certain disadvantages come with it (vibration, durability of parts more likely to flex, etc.).

 

Here are some pictures of the solid engine mounts and differential mounts made by Kazama, Japan.





I have a few sets instock if anyone is interested.

http://www.optionimports.com/rx7fd3sparts.html

 

Somebody suggested me to have the crossmember modified to have it bolt on directly to the chassis w/o having to use any mounts. Just to cut it up and extend from both sides. Would anyone see any problems by doing that?

 

That would not be a problem unless of course you decided to go back to rubber mounts

 

Without seeing both sides of the motor mounts I can't tell if there is a recess for the bump on the drivers side bracket. If not you would either have to have two passenger side mounts or really pull a number on the dr side mount. See the pics above to see what I am talking about.
The anodizing looks nice. Anodizing does make the aluminum harder so it actually does have a beneficial effect other than the color. When you see an anodized subframe bushing some people may think it is for looks.
You can anodize and not dye the part but then you can't really tell it's been anodized. Hence why they make a bushing you cannot see so pretty

 

There's no recess on the Kazama motor mounts, here are some pictures of the other side. both mounts are exactly the same. Maybe Japanese FDs have different mounts?? because these are supposed to bolt in, that's what Kazama told me...

 

I'll check with a friend of mine that sells a lot of JSpec's and see if the mounts are different. I guess the smaller caphead bolt is some sort of locator but I cannot figure out why on that either.
I will have to take a few pics of the urethane bushings they have at Gotham. The way they did those raised a couple of questions as well. They did use both type of brackets though.