j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i like that idea, smoother than a 2 rotor with better gas mileage than the 20b?

mike

Cheers!

mike you should build one.

Scalliwag

That avatar is funny. Who is that guy and who is he flipping off?

wwilliam54

if no one makes one by the time i graduate, i think i could find a good buiseness oppourtunity to use my degree with

QuagmireMan

sounds like we as a group should all put our heads together and make this 15a, we just need the 10a's first and some time. oh yea and lots of money

Kenku

Enh, it wouldn't be too hard... given 10A parts. Do they *make* 10A parts anymore?

You guys go ahead; I'm going to work on figuring out a 26B that ends up enough shorter than the R26B to actually fit in something.

QuagmireMan

good luck with that one

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the last batch of 10a parts was in like 98, (someone rebuilt a 110cosmo in the usa) they are impossible to find. for rotor housings we can turn down 12a ones, but rotors are just not available used or new

Kenku

Thought as much, honestly. Oh well... guess this gets to my "aluminum billet rotors riding on needle bearings" idea.


Well, honestly, I don't know that it would be that hard... I mean, aside from the obvious need to make custom intermediate plates. The R26B (I saw and took pictures of Jim Downing's motor) has intermediate plates that are probably the thickness of 20B plates... maybe a little less. If you're making them from scratch with no provision for side intake ports, you really don't need them to be *that* thick. In fact, I honestly think that if you made them from scratch, even with having a stationary gear in them you could probably get the intermediate plates to around half as thick as the normal intermediate plates!

Thinner intermediate plates means... well, obviously less thickness for the motor. If I can get the intermediate plates down to 20mm... well... 20B is 3x80mm housings, 1 40mm intermediate plate and 1 80mm intermediate plate for 360mm (not including end plates) and the 26B would be 4x80mm housings plus 3x20mm for 380mm. Which is still longer, but I think it's within the realm of possibility... Scoot's 4-rotor 23A should be 400mm and they fit *that* into an FD, so...

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the nsu wankel spider plates are very thin, theres no water or intake porting in them

mike

Kenku

Hmm, neat. I didn't know that. Seems to support my theory though...

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

dude, we all knew the germans liked david hasselhof

maybe you should get some nsu wankel spider rotor housings, they are available new

mike

Kenku

Somehow I sorta doubt the NSU housings would bolt up to Mazda bits.

zenjoe

back to the "smaller is better" subject. If you want to make the mazda combustion chamber better, why doesn't someone make a 13b wider? so the combustion chamber is more square. this would increase the displacement and probably increase the effeciency of the combustion chamber.

didn't mazda make a 15b or something like that with wider rotors?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

15A. It was wider than a 13B, but just as tall as the 10A, 12A, and 13B.

QuagmireMan

the main problem is the combustion, which is a controlled burn, the smaller the area the less distance the burn has to travel. providing more efficiency

wwilliam54

to make 10a parts you could cut down 12a housings and cut down the rotors on the non gear side

Mr BiG G

ahhahaha quagmire.....that show rocks man....now according to quagmire.....the smaller the burn area the more efficient it is....and according to the others the shape of the burning area is not good.....so my question is what if u made thinner rotors that have a deeper and more elongated depression....might give u the best of both worlds.....right?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the rotors and seals are really close to 10a stuff

mike

pinkfloyd

Wouldn’t this work. 13B rotors but shorter. Just as wide but shorter. This would make a more square area for combustion. Then there is always the indention in the rotor weather making it bigger or smaller would be better I do not know. Also if you made them shorter then there is less mass rotating and then you could get a higher red line I think. Also since you are making them shorter you loose displacement, so just take this little dream of mine and turn it into a 3 rotor to make up for loss of displacement or something.

Mr BiG G

shorter meaning....the rotors would have a smaller height/radius?? and once again when u add that 3rd rotor for extra displacement....ur gonna have more rotating mass!

pinkfloyd

yes i mean hight. should have said that....and i forgot about the third rotor. I thought since each rotor has less mass you could get a higher red line even though the overal mass would be greater. I am just using what i know about pistons. 3L v12 small pistons= high red line, yes i know this is not alwasy ture but overall this is what i think. let me know if i am wrong. what i mean is that the 3Lv12 can rev higher then a 3L i4 because each cylider has less mass.

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

while were on the topic of experimental rotary engine designs heres one ive been pondering:

ok, the rotary was originally designed as a pump... great! lets put that into practice... have a 2..well ok technically 3 rotor engine. rear two rotors would be like our 13b for combustion. but....... the 3rd rotor (probably a little less wide) would be a.... yes.... pump. pump what mr. wankle?? well why not air? ive heard rotarys are relatively efficiant as pumps... so what we would have is a supercharged 13b with the supercharger (another rotor) built into the engine! take that for the next 7 mazda! an all rotary powered, supercharged 13b renesis (and it all fits into one neat epichoidal package). what do you think.... heath

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I love the idea of a 4 rotor made up of 10A or 12A housings for 1 reason.

Strength!

The apex seals (and any other weak point) would be just as strong as in a 2 rotor, except there are twice as many.

So a 500hp 4 rotor would be much less stressed than a 500hp 2 rotor even if they could be made with equal displacement.

But the 4 rotors get so long a traditional FR chassis layout is compromised. Must go to mid engine/rear transaxle and use the narrow engine up the middle of the car as a stressed member in a "backbone" type frame!

Could you imaging driving resting your right elbow on a 4 rotor turning 10,000rpm... At least the clutch/flywheel would be well behind you

pinkfloyd

from what i hear it seems that a 10a or 12a is better for a 4 rotor then a 13b. is this right.