semi-hijack but... damnit I'm putting my first motor together in the next week or so and I'm trying to read through all this stuff to figure out what I need to hold stuff in place.

I am using the Rotary aviation soft seal kit (mostly teflon and viton stuff) and Rotary aviation apex seals. What does everyone recommend for that? I just don't want to screw this up. I'd rather use something I don't have to order online.

 

Permatex is, again, selling Hylomar...
It's called their "Universal Blue Racing Formula".
I wonder if it's the same as the old stuff or nasty ****?

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ge_Sealant.htm

Damn SEMA mag was worth reading for a change...


-Ted

 

I'm putting an engine together right now, luckily I've only greased up the front plate, I'll see if I can find this locally and hopefully remember to report back this weekend.

 

I couldn't find the new stuff locally today, but I did go to Harbor Freight as per Blue TII's recommendation and tried out the "Hylomar Pit Lane Product, universal blue, racing formula."
I actually didn't like it. It dried too quick. I went ahead and used it on the oil seal rings, but stuck to the Vaseline for now on the water rings.

 

^ yes I just tried the same stuff and it dried really fast

 

Just to back up this claim:

I did my first solo rebuild a while back, and used vaseline to help hold the coolant o-rings in place during the build.

After stacking the engine I became paranoid I'd installed the oil control ring springs backwards (we're all human ) so I tore it down, about 3 days after stacking it.

When I reassembled it the second time, none of the inner orings fit the grooves, they were easily 1" larger then they were originally.....luckily I was able to coax them into place after much frustration with them falling out.

Bottom line - vaseline will work for that task, but it *DOES* swell the orings - make no mistake about it.


EDIT: Used OEM coolant seals for the build, no idea on other orings.

 

I use Crisco to hold everything in place. Very easy to work with, cleanup is a breeze. It is also NOT petroleum-based. It's vegetable-based, so it shouldn't swell the seals. However, if you have seal grooves that are highly pitted, a non-hardening sealant would be a better choice for a more "permanent" filling of imperfections than Crisco, so the choice of which to use would depend on your situation.

Oh and when you use Crisco, you get that fried chicken smell on initial startup lol.

 

I a sorry the Harbor Freight stuff was no good for some.

It did dry faster than the old Permatex stuff for me as well, but went on easier as it starts out less viscous.

I wonder if climate/temperature has anything to do with Hylomar set up time. I have been wondering that since the first time I tried to use the Valco junk Mazdatrix swears by- it just balled up and stuck to nothing but itself straight out of the tube for me.

It is 60 deg F and 100% humidity where I live most of the time...

 

I'm assembling a motor this month and need to know what to buy. Old school 3b plates, coolant seal in rotor housing. The plates are lapped but there is still the faintest pitting on the rear plate where the coolant seal goes.

Would I use a non-hardening sealer all around the coolant seal, to seal that pitting?

Is the Hylomar Advanced Formula (solvent free) that Chadwick discusses on page on the real deal hylomar that everyone wants? At $30 a tube it ain't cheap.

Why not use Threebond 1194 instead, since it is cheap ($6 for 3.5oz) and available at local auto parts stores: ThreeBond 1194 Liquid gasket (gray)
ThreeBond 1194 is a semidrying liquid gasket whose major component is special synthetic rubber. After it is applied and dried, it will form a rubber-like elastic body. Since it excels in padding property, it shows a high sealing effect on bonded surfaces that have poor flatness and large clearance. In addition, it has excellent resistance to water, oil and gasoline

Is Crisco any better as an assembly lube than Vaseline?

 

You can pick up the Hylomar AF for $12.50 a tube from https://www.neverseezproductscart.co...223#googlebase

Or if you use a lot the can for $37.45 from http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=2867

Advanced Formula is the same stuff Permatex badge as HPF and no longer sells. All Hylomar is manufactured by Hylomar and packaged under license agreement through different companies. Two in the US that come to mind are Permatex and Valco.

Universal Blue and Universal Blue Race Formula both turn to a paste like substance once the solvent evaporates. The old Permatex HPF or current Advanced Formula stays at the same constancy as when it comes out of the package.

Hope this helps,
Dan