Wow, dam those liberals. Now I heard about the 30 year exemption they want to take that away. Im telling you Cali is so dam bad. Just a question, since I dont live in cali. When you go for the sniffer test cant you just add like 2 cats after the downpipe go take the test then take it off and put your midpipe + catback on again? I mean its alot of work but sorta worth it. Thats what my friends do when they need to take their cars in for warranty issues.

 

******* CA gas has cost me at least 3 engines.........

 

Ever tried any (REAL) Octane boosters? How about xylene? Heard that stuff works. Or even better, move =P

 

well, at 18psi.........

 

Well at 18psi hmmm I see why, you didnt have a low boost setting?

 

because he likes to go fast?

 

but of course.

And I like to spin the stock tires in 3rd gear too.

 

Get a solid drivetrain (tranny etc) and I was able to "chirp" 3rd gear. Not really spin but close =P

 

http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/for...ic.php?t=37890

Who has experience with these guys & their "ceramic coated rotors"

Input please

 

"We take your set (1 pair) of Rotors and Ceramic Coat the Compression Face Surface of the rotors with a special blend of Ceramic coating. The Coating helps to reduce the surface temperatures as well as eliminate heat soak into the rotors. The sides of the rotors are also treaded to a Dry Film Lubricant to help reduce friction as well as eliminate heat soak. This process will allow you to reduce your fuel consumption while still creating the same power levels. A great advantage for you to have over the competition. Proven time and time again with our race results we think you will be amazed with the performance gains this service offers. "

I'm not too sure about the dry film lub.

That was one of the things that I was considering.

But I fail to see the point of coating the sides of the rotors since the oil rings are in contact, right?

The rotor sides aren't actually touching the side housings are they?

 

Dont they have to be at least by some degree since thas what closes the port to stop air coming in? Or exhaust port to for air going out? I mean maybe the dry lube is teflon or something.

 

Side seals open and close ports, and seal off the rotor to the side housings.

For only a hundred bux a rotor, I would definately try this if I was building a motor. That is cheaper than trying to get some Renesis or just S5 NA rotors used.

 

From my understanding the Renesis rotors are lighter right? Since their high compression though you cant use them in an FD right?

 

Fatman0203, Yes the lighter Renesis rotors can be used. It's prefered that you machine the apex seal grooves to accept regular 2mm apex seals. The thinner Renesis apex seals aren't designed to travel over the exhaust port and will warp. Overall tuning is the main ingrediant when running high compression rotors.

Now lets get back on topic

 

Don't stock rotors already have a dry film lubricant on their sides- that would be the "soft coating" the Mazda manuals tell you not to damage when you clean the sides of the rotor above the side seals...

 

if u look closely at the rotors in my pics u might see that the sides look like they are cadium plated.

 

Heheh, neat stuff.

Ceramic coating is not so much for rejection of radiant heat, as it is for contact insulation. It's a low-conductivity layer between combustion gasses and the working surface.

I think ceramic coating is useful. The exhaust charge will be negligibly hotter, and the rotor the same cooler. What we don't want is this ceramic coating to become scratched, causing the edges of the scratch to create momentary glowing embers for pre-ignition. I've not yet read of this happening.

 

the entire side of the rotor should not touch the side housing. the only part of the rotor that should touch is the oil control rings. the gear to land measurement is greater than the rotor face to face measurement.

 

Update:

I have noticed that at WOT my knock readings are for the most part under 5.

Once in a while ( every 20~ WOT events ) I would see a spike of 40.

Water temps are a constant 85C

Air intake temps (with warm-air intake) are around low 40's in 75F weather with low humidity.

All events are at stock boost levels with stock PFC maps and full open exhaust.

 

My engine with ceramic coated rotors should be running within the next month or so. I just got my turbo so the car will be back together soon.

-Max

 

u should ceramic coat the turbos, LIM and UIM as well as IC piping

 

I just picked up my UIM, LIM, and GReddy elbow from the coating shop ("chrome" thermal barrier coating on those). I'll do the exhaust parts at some point, but I need to concentrate on getting the car back on the road for now.

-Max

 

Max,

can you post some pics or will you be updating your website with your rebuild progress.

 

Someday I will update the web site. I haven't really been taking pics along the way, so they will be more like "this is what it looks like now" pics rather than shots of individual parts.

-Max

 

I'm not sure if I ever posted these, but here are some pics of my rotors with the ceramic thermal barrier coating. The little plastic thing is the Curtiss-Wright Rotating Combustion Engine demonstration thingy.

-Max