NOOB'S GUIDE TO PORTING (56K Beware)
 

Ok here we go......



There has been alot of talk on here about porting, and i really have'nt found a central source for the info on how to port. This is not for what type of port to do, nor what not to do.

The next few days i will show you how to do a Half Bridge Port to a FD 13B

There will be 3 Parts to this

#1 Rotor Housing Porting
#2 Secondary Intake Bridge Porting / Rotor Housing Notching
#3 Primary intake porting

Keywords : Porting Bridgeport Bridgeporting Street Port Race Port Exhaust

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!SAFETY FRIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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You will need a die grinder, if you can get both a big and small one then that is great, you really need both to do a good job. You can get away with the big one for the Rotor housing. You also will need alot of different bits, I really dont no witch you have to have, just try and get a asortment.
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Ok here is the order that i do things, again this is just my way.

#1 ROTOR HOUSING PORTING

Step one scribe your port template onto the Rotor housing, Ether spray paint the housing or use a Black marker to help show the line. Make sure that you line the template up like it needs to be. Most places will give you some input on where. You can see the black marks on the Rotor Housing that i made to line mine up.

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Then from the out side of the motor you will start your porting

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It is a good idea to use two hands with the die grinder, use a leather glove with some oil on it so you dont burn your hand

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Also use a clamp so you dont have the rotor housing, this will save your butt.

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After you get the porting very close to the line, DONT GO TO THE LINE, just before the line

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Now make sure that the insert is about the same size as the port you just grinded out

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Now it is time to start the smoothing process. Start buy cleaning up the exhaust insert.

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Now start to smooth the bottom edge of your port. You want to make the transision that smoothest you can.

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Now that you have the bottom done start with the top, you want to make the on-to transition smooth as possible agian, this will add many miles on your motor if you take your time in this area.

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Now that you have that done, it is time to really smooth it out, and feel for anything that is not perfect. Use some oil on the housing with some 800-1000 grit wet/dry sand paper

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Work the entire port over as long as you think you need to.

AND THAT IS IT, You should have a very nice port done, just start agian with your other rotor housing.

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I will be back tomarrow to show you how to do a Bridge Port, and How to notch the rotor housing to get the max out of your porting.

you gonna bevel that port?

on the last picture to the left it looks like you went a little nuts on the left side...

Chuck we really need to get you a smoother exhaust port template. You should also get a Dremel with the extension that basically is the size of a pencil. That way you can get any edges real smooth controllably without worrying about digging into the housings. You can also get inside the runners much easier. The main porting is fine with the die grinder but you really need something small with finesse to do the finish work.

Beveling the closing edge of the exhaust port is way overrated and not always necessary. It is a myth that it will always chew up apex seals. It can but it doesn't have to. The only engines this happens to are the ones where people got too greedy and ported the exhaust ports overly wide which leads to little support area. If you ported the exhaust properly, you don't need it. A small bevel (1/8") is good for flow but a large one (1/4") is not better. I have seen people break the top half of apex seals and blame it on the exhaust port closing edges but detonation can do that to the seals too. A bevel on the closing of the intake ports is also unneccesary unless you get too greedy and open them too early.

There is a small bevel on the closing edge, I also check the clearance with a new apex seal to check the lip.

You mean on the inside of the port, yea. But that doesnt really matter what the inside looks like, Yes if you can get it really really smooth it will cut down on carbon sticking to it.

I really worry about the smoothness where it mets the housing and the closing lip.

i'd just like to echo the sentiment about getting a Dremel to do the finish work, not just because it's what i do, but because i do believe it makes for better control when polishing. aside from that constructive criticism, i love what you did. i give you even more kudos for initiating a "How To -"-thread on porting. i always thought this board could do with a dedicated porting/building section, like you know where. maybe this could start it off. moderators??? :)

as for the beveling, i'm a firm believer in them, but i do agree that they are not needed if you don't go ape-shit with port width. so i think Rotarygod is spot on with his assessment.

The Exhaust Port Template that i use is a Racing Beat race port one.

What do you mean by smoother template?

This is not my first bull ride (Texas joke, wink wink)

I have done enuff of these ports to be able to do nice ports with my steady hand and the big grinder, but i do have a small one with a Shxt load of carbide bits for it. I really use the small one for intake porting, I HAVE NEVER used the big one on a intake port, you can slip easy with the big one. It may take 2X longer with the smaller die grinder but you get a very very nice finish.

But yea the Dremel attachment is nice, but i just dont need it. I use my finger and sandpaper where i want to really get closes.


Thanks RotaryGod


AGIAN I JUST WANTED TO SHOW SOME OF THE NOOB's THAT HAVE NEVER PORTED BEFORE WHAT THEY NEED TO DO IF THEY WANT TO TRY IT FOR THERE SELF.

Noob checking in, good work chuck! Hey there Fred :wavey:
I don't know what I'm doing in here so i'll just be on my way...

Thanks Dude

Please don't think I was criticizing you chuck. I wasn't. I just see that big cumbersome sanding device you are using and am just saying that there is a much easier more way to do it with more finesse.

NO NO Dude, i wasnt thinking that.

I have smaller sanding discs for my small grinder

Good stuff. Great post. Glad to see the SAFETY FIRST!!! being splashed all over the top of the post, also. :) Can't ever go wrong with that. Infact, I almost ruined my left eye a couple of years ago when I got an iron splinter stuck in the lens. It began forming rust and enabled conjunctivitis. $150 from an emergency procedure and 2 weeks later on anti-biotics...

B

I agree. I use an 1/8" shank tool (Dremel-type) for my porting. While it is admittedly slower, I believe it yields much more fine results with less screw-ups.

B

Dude i had one in a LONG time ago, like when i was 14 or so, I dont want to EVER have that happen agian, it totally sucks.

One other thing on the 1/8 shank, I use it for everything except the rotor housing. I just like how the rotor housing come out with the big one. But it would be perfect with a smaller one.

I do all of my main porting with a die grinder but all finishing work or bridgeport work gets done with a Dremel.

OK i no i said that i would have the next part done today, well I had to go to work sorry, but i did have some time to work on it today

Ok here is your standard FD Secondary port

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Here is how much you will be adding to this port

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Apply something to the Iron so that your marks will show up better, Magicmarker and flat black paint works well.

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Use something sharp to scrib the patter onto the Iron

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Take a drill and put small holes INSIDE THE LINES, i have seen some people messup with this

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On the upper sets of holes, you start to run out of stock runner, so you need to drill at a angle so you dont hit the water jacket

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/Stuff382.jpg
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Now the easy part, Use the DRILL to attach all the holes you have just drilled. Just go side to side untill they touch each other

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This is as far as i got last night, was working on painting my engine bay. Will finish tomarrow night

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Interesting, pics are great. Cant wait to see the final result.

Final result of the entire car, or the porting

I got a metal shaving in my eye a couple years ago from doing my bridge-port irons. Ironic thing is they used a mini die grinder to get that rust out of my eyeball!!

couple questions as far as getting some templates... what companies have some and what sizes do they have? also the 13b and 20b have the same housings right? meaning you can use the same templates... i always wondered that!

i just wanted to say this is a great thread so far!!! props for putting your balls out there :)

-Lance

That's an awesome write-up, thanks for the info as I'll be using this in an up-coming project. Again, great work.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get your template from?

^ i believe he stated its a Racing Beat race port template.

Ah, thanks, over-read that I guess. :D

These companies has templates

Mazdatrix
Racing Beat
Pineapple < I think they are working on these
Yaw Power

This port is a Racing Beat Race Port

The nice thing about templates, They will work on anything 12a 13b 20b 26b What ever, they all have the same shape. The ports are just a little off.

^ do you know of any feed back of each companies ports? you must like the racing beats :)

awesome write-up , this will help a lot of people , whats up with the fingernails though ?

^ lol i was waiting for someone to say it... those are man hands!

I hate long nails.... And i allways have grease under them ALLWAYS. If i am not sleeping or working, i am in the garage doing something with the 7's

Great thread, and might I add you've got some greezy hair. I'd suggest some head and shoulders...

Everyones a Critic

Alright lets not turn this into that... lets keep it on topic the guys doing a great job of showing some porting.

I have a sorta-on-topic question. How much material does that template leave between the bridge and the water seal groove? It appears about 1mm (.040). Just curious because I will be doing a bridge here soon. No template. Just plexiglass tracings to keep things right. Thanks.

wow. until recently, i've been a little apprehensive about trying a bridge myself, but you make it look so simple. i had already come to terms with doing one, but i don't think it's going to be as intimidating as i thought now.

thanks.

awsome job !
your a real giver!

I like to leave about the same as the smallest point in the entire housing, even if the porting template wants me to go farther, it isnt worth the extra air if you will have a water seal problem in the furture.

I will try and do somemore today

Thanks this is valuable info.
I'm BPing a 12A and am too tight to buy templates so I'm using a degree wheel and marking the irons. Your pictures give me confidence.

I made my own bridge for my custom 6-Port Bridgeporting

Use the rotor housing for the curve of the bridge then just add to it towards the water seal and then find the Corner seal path.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_IMG_0558.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...h_IMG_0580.jpg

Great job Chuck.

That is the only work i do :balls:

Ok here is the rest.

These are the tools that you will need to do this type of porting
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If you cant find the exact bits just get something close

Setup you die grinder
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Start with the bridge because if you mess that up you didnt waste all of your time porting the secondary :rlaugh:

Start your cutting like this
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DO NOT CUT IT LIKE THIS, you will not get a stright line
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Here is about half done with the bridge

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Just need to be cleaned up with sand paper, but you are done with the port.
Just remember dont worry about where the scribed mark is on the inside of the port (Closest to the water seal) you will need to use your own judgement on how thick you want to leave the metal. I like to have more than others :)
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Now lets start on the main port
Change your bit to something that has more bite, also here is the angle that you will want to port this at
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DO NOT PORT LIKE THIS, you will run the risk of going into the water housing
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Here is done with the ruff cutting
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Just port the scribed line at the bottom like you did at the top
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Next we need to work on smoothing everything out
Spray some oil on the iron to help with the sanding

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Now to help even more with the hard to reach parts make something like this

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Start sanding your main port

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After you are done with that, change your tool to something like this

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Start your sanding of the bridge, PLEASE Take your time and make it as smooth as you can, the better it is the more miles you will get out of your motor.

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Ok here is the finished product, i have just went over everything with 1000 grid sandpaper to really get it smooth, looks like there is some cloth stuck on the edges from where i wiped it off with.
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Allways take both irons and make sure they are pretty close, if they need to be changed now is the easy place to do it.

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Ok now we need to notch the Rotor housing so we can use this new bridgeport

Here is the port without the notching

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/Stuff443.jpg
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Here is where the notching needs to go
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Take your porting template and lay it onto the rotor housing

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Here is the amount that needs to be removed
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Ok after you have marked your port, add 1/4 of a inch on each side of the port. Also you will need to port appox 5/32 into the rotor housing

This grinder bit is the best i think
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/Stuff454.jpg

Start slow and just take your time untill you finish
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Here is what it looks like with the rotor housing in place
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That is it,

I changed my mind about showing how to port the center housing. If you got this far you can get the center done. Just use the bridge porting template without the bridge.

This was a late night for me, I just wanted to get this thread done, so it could start helping people not feel so scared about doing porting. As long as you just take your time and double check everything, there is nothing to worry about.

IF YOU WOULD LIKE THIS TO BECOME A STICKY PLEASE ASK FOR IT IN THIS THREAD

I was just wondering what my turbo will look like in my engine bay, O yea Sexy Sexy Sexy

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THANKS FOR EVERYONES TIME!!

excellent stuff man. maybe one day when ill grow the balls to try this out.

STICKY!

agreed! sticky! great thread, thanks for all the info!!

Sticky!

Sticky!

nice job. sticky.