new idea for a 4rotor
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 103
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From: Dearborn, MI
new idea for a 4rotor
can anyone comment as to why this would potentially not work:
take 2 2rotor engines (preferably of the same type) and attach the back end one one to the front end of the other.
specifically, the flywheel would be removed from the front motor, and the front main pulley (as well as all the accessories) would be removed from the rear engine. all the balance weights would be left in both motors. you would probably want to run a nice big dry sump and get rid of both of the engines stock oil pumps. the rear motor would have the water pump and pump housing removed. one would fabricate a little duct work to get coolant in and out of the normal ports in the front iron. you would probably want to run one of thoes expensive electric water pumps you see on show cars, and get rid of your front stock water pump as well. to secure the two engines to each other, a special part would be made that looked like a splined yoke on one side (to accept the front motor's e-shaft) and have a bolt pattern in the back to attach to the rear e-shafts front main pulley area (this might be a potential weak spot though). for the housing some heavy duty braketry could be used to bolt everything up. i suppose since all the balance weights are still in, you could phase the two engines any way you wanted.
i know this would be significantly heavyer than a propper 4rotor engine (what with the extra side housing, and 2 extra balance weights), but i wonder if it could work. anyone have any input on that?
again, the weak point would probably be where the coupler bolts to the rear engine..i wonder if that area could be beefed up at all without too much trouble...
take 2 2rotor engines (preferably of the same type) and attach the back end one one to the front end of the other.
specifically, the flywheel would be removed from the front motor, and the front main pulley (as well as all the accessories) would be removed from the rear engine. all the balance weights would be left in both motors. you would probably want to run a nice big dry sump and get rid of both of the engines stock oil pumps. the rear motor would have the water pump and pump housing removed. one would fabricate a little duct work to get coolant in and out of the normal ports in the front iron. you would probably want to run one of thoes expensive electric water pumps you see on show cars, and get rid of your front stock water pump as well. to secure the two engines to each other, a special part would be made that looked like a splined yoke on one side (to accept the front motor's e-shaft) and have a bolt pattern in the back to attach to the rear e-shafts front main pulley area (this might be a potential weak spot though). for the housing some heavy duty braketry could be used to bolt everything up. i suppose since all the balance weights are still in, you could phase the two engines any way you wanted.
i know this would be significantly heavyer than a propper 4rotor engine (what with the extra side housing, and 2 extra balance weights), but i wonder if it could work. anyone have any input on that?
again, the weak point would probably be where the coupler bolts to the rear engine..i wonder if that area could be beefed up at all without too much trouble...
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 991
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles
its been done by racing beat in the 80s.
4 rotor tractor puller with 2 13B's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO9pafLvbbA
And its been done on a R/C tractor puller with 2 Mini Rotary engines couple together.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOlpi...eature=related
4 rotor tractor puller with 2 13B's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO9pafLvbbA
And its been done on a R/C tractor puller with 2 Mini Rotary engines couple together.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOlpi...eature=related
Last edited by 61620B; Jul 21, 2008 at 01:58 PM.
Seen this some were..... i think it was on a tractor puller believe it or not. It would work granted the vehicle has lots of space. You'd also want to use some sort of universal or flex joint to join the engines, not solid. It would require some extreme rigidity having two engine bolted to a frame and not break a solid coupler.
~Mike...............
~Mike...............
I know a guy in Saskatchewan that did this in the 80's too. He used a 1/8" flex plate. Engines were old used 4 port 13B blocks running stock carbs and no porting. The R100 ran low 11's and I believe he still has the car.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Dearborn, MI
gmonsen,
i had thought about taking power from the cneter so that the rear e-shaft would not have to transfer double the torque it was designed to. i wonder if you could use 2 main sprockets from a crotch rocket to do this...
i don't know much about modern bikes, but my buddy has an old Honda 750 (4banger) on his bike, and the crank is connected to the gearbox with either a sprocket or a gear (can't remember for sure) that is attached to the middle of the crank. maybe a similar stronger part (or maybe several weak ones welded together) could be attached to the center of the 2 rotaries. i'm not sure what sort of gearbox you would then use though. any ideas?
i had thought about taking power from the cneter so that the rear e-shaft would not have to transfer double the torque it was designed to. i wonder if you could use 2 main sprockets from a crotch rocket to do this...
i don't know much about modern bikes, but my buddy has an old Honda 750 (4banger) on his bike, and the crank is connected to the gearbox with either a sprocket or a gear (can't remember for sure) that is attached to the middle of the crank. maybe a similar stronger part (or maybe several weak ones welded together) could be attached to the center of the 2 rotaries. i'm not sure what sort of gearbox you would then use though. any ideas?
