When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I don't disagree with you there, each kit has a price point and a target market, and some require a lot more additional stuff.
However, I would appreciate if discussions about other products were done in their own thread. I don't think that's too much to ask, considering this thread is specific to this item.
Not sure if your sensitivity **** is turned too high or mine is turned down too low, but the one thing that’s clear is that it’s a 2-way street on a public forum.
Therefore it’s not any more asking too much for us both to make an equal adjustment towards the middle zone between us. Because it’s not like you’re a forum vendor actively trying to produce and sell a product in your own dedicated sales area. Yet I do respect what you’ve done here and now that you made your feelings known I’ll refrain from discussing the other source any further, even though it was only done with the best intention of helping someone else. Again, btw. Because it seems as the one thing that’s possibly too much to ask for is you not always assuming the worst for my intention.
Otherwise I always welcome you to offer any clarification or correction to my misstating something. Thank you again for producing such a nice CD009 conversion kit. I look forward to finally installing it soon.
.
.
If any one is looking for a cost friendly street twin clutch option , mcload will make the 13b rst clutch with 24 spline disk in it for the conversion. Call ask for joe in tech help . they will provide flywheel too ,but you need to order a ring gear from Mazda and sweat it on . I Just ordered the clutch from them.
not too bad, It reminded me of the Tilton ST-246 twin disc muscle car setup which with flywheel is ~44 lbs. Maybe not so heavy for a torquey large displacement V8.
Not sure if your sensitivity **** is turned too high or mine is turned down too low, but the one thing that’s clear is that it’s a 2-way street on a public forum.
Therefore it’s not any more asking too much for us both to make an equal adjustment towards the middle zone between us. Because it’s not like you’re a forum vendor actively trying to produce and sell a product in your own dedicated sales area. Yet I do respect what you’ve done here and now that you made your feelings known I’ll refrain from discussing the other source any further, even though it was only done with the best intention of helping someone else. Again, btw. Because it seems as the one thing that’s possibly too much to ask for is you not always assuming the worst for my intention.
Otherwise I always welcome you to offer any clarification or correction to my misstating something. Thank you again for producing such a nice CD009 conversion kit. I look forward to finally installing it soon.
.
.
I don't assume the worst for your intentions. It just seems fair to me if this thread could be kept on topic regarding this kit in particular.
As you say, I'm not a vendor. But it seems silly to throw courtesy out the window over semantics. Feel free to do as you choose.
I don't feel as if I'm being too sensitive about it, it was just a polite request.
That’s exactly what I’m referring to. Why would you even negatively suggest my intent to do otherwise?
Dude, I am not suggesting anything negative or otherwise, and I have no clue what you're getting at.
It was just a simple request, and this is already 4 posts too long for this matter. Let's just forget it.
Happy New Year gentlemen!! I felt like giving an update with my experience with the kit, seeing as I'm the first customer to get it up and running besides the development car.
I'''ve put over 7000 miles on the kit at around 500-580whp with many air-strip roll racing events since I installed it in mid 2019. When the car is driven in anger, I really slam those gears raw flat-shifting without a flatshift feature and the trans feels as good as ever. I'll have to play with the flat shift feature on my ECU to cut the trans some slack.
The concentric slave cylinder which @Careless chose for the kit just keeps on going and going. It's very strong and if it ever breaks, the part is very affordable and very available everywhere. Nothing is showing any signs of wear or vibrations. The starter alignment is just great and the car starts every time.
In the near future I will probably move away from the Mazworx s-chassis shifter bracket and get a Serialnine shifter because it places the lever a tad forward. The benefit of the Mazworx shifter is it uses the OEM lever which has had an amazing feel and throw since my 350z days.
For everyone's info, I'm using an ACT StreetLite flywheel, ACT 6-puck sprung disk for SR20 Silvia, and ACT Xtreme pressure plate for FC turbo II
Happy New Year gentlemen!! I felt like giving an update with my experience with the kit, seeing as I'm the first customer to get it up and running besides the development car.
I'''ve put over 7000 miles on the kit at around 500-580whp with many air-strip roll racing events since I installed it in mid 2019. When the car is driven in anger, I really slam those gears raw flat-shifting without a flatshift feature and the trans feels as good as ever. I'll have to play with the flat shift feature on my ECU to cut the trans some slack.
The concentric slave cylinder which @Careless chose for the kit just keeps on going and going. It's very strong and if it ever breaks, the part is very affordable and very available everywhere. Nothing is showing any signs of wear or vibrations. The starter alignment is just great and the car starts every time.
In the near future I will probably move away from the Mazworx s-chassis shifter bracket and get a Serialnine shifter because it places the lever a tad forward. The benefit of the Mazworx shifter is it uses the OEM lever which has had an amazing feel and throw since my 350z days.
For everyone's info, I'm using an ACT StreetLite flywheel, ACT 6-puck sprung disk for SR20 Silvia, and ACT Xtreme pressure plate for FC turbo II
Happy New Year gentlemen!! I felt like giving an update with my experience with the kit, seeing as I'm the first customer to get it up and running besides the development car.
Thank you for the update, Sash91.
I am glad to hear that it is working great.
580whp is a lot more than you were making before!
How is the pedal feel with the single-disk you have?
A lot of ppl feel the need for a mulit-disk setup, but IMHO it's a bit more effort than it is worth considering it's 4 to 5x the price of a single disc kit that will hold 600whp.
How is the pedal feel with the single-disk you have?
It feels just great to me, very driveable, good modulation, and master cylinder is happy with no leaks. For sure it's stiffer than stock but it's well within the comfort limits.
ACT has since released a new pressure plate that's one level stiffer, called the MaXX. That one is rated to 625ft/lb up from my current one rated at 560ft/lb. These numbers are from their website assuming the use of their 6-puck sprung disks.
So I might move to that pressure plate if need be. Right now its great with just the Xtreme.
I don't know why so many rotary guys move to twin-disk setups so soon. A blessing in disguise of the rotary's lack of torque is we get to run single disk at relatively high power levels.
I don't know why so many rotary guys move to twin-disk setups so soon. A blessing in disguise of the rotary's lack of torque is we get to run single disk at relatively high power levels.
I imagine it's due to perceived drivability issues with lightened flywheels and low-end torque being difficult to drive with a heavy clutch pedal, but if the release mechanism and pedal ratio work well together, I've found it's almost a non-issue and modulation is fairly standard if compared to something like a 2.5 or 3 litre motor making the same or even less top-end power.
I used OS Giken TS2B on my FC for years and absolutely loved it. It was hands-down the best driving rotary clutch I owned. I had an ACT X-Treme before that and it was much harder to drive. The TS2B only has about 2mm of clutch material IIRC and mine started slipping in higher gears at around 550whp. When I took it out, my disks were past the service spec. I originally got the clutch for free on a JDM import engine/trans with unknown history. If I went back to a rotary, I'd 100% buy the same clutch over again.
Hey there im interested in this kit anyone have a direct number or email for careless
Hey there im interested in this kit anyone have a direct number or email for careless
Originally Posted by Careless
Hi everyone.
Originally Posted by Careless
I have developed a transmission adapter for the 370Z 6 Speed MT transmission to bolt up to the 13B rear housing, and the assembly is now installed in a local time-attack vehicle that has undergone some serious upgrades in the drivetrain department as well as other areas. It will be going for testing in the following couple of weeks before the tracks close for the season.
The JK40C transmissions are relatively commonplace now. They are easy to locate, acquire, tear down, and inspect. They are extremely durable Warner style synchromesh transmissions that have beefy gears and have been good to some VQ35's turning 9000 RPM.
Here's a photo of the transmission mounted to the engine (or the engine mounted to the transmission, considering it's about 2 times the size )
The way the starter mounts is important for not hitting the frame rail, but I will post photos once it is tested and running. So far we HAVE gotten the car to start and idle with no odd sounds coming from any of the modifications we've made to the drivetrain.
I am posting here because I couldn't find a drivetrain section, and I've seen people attempt the V160/161, Supra Getrag, Z32, and T56 transmission adapters, but no one stepped up to develop a 370z trans, and they are relatively stout when compared to what's already available. Perhaps even overkill for most.
If anyone has any questions, concerns, feedback; please post away. I'm looking to make this kit available in the near future.
The current list of mods that are required to get such an item running in a car with a rotary motor isn't extremely extensive. It's pretty standard for a foreign transmission to be installed on a completely different engine:
Parts that I've engineered/fabricated
flywheel spacer and lock-plate disc
13B rear iron to 370z bell-housing adapter + custom flathead socket cap screws
13B manual to 370z bell housing starter adapter/mount
370Z throwout bearing spacer (recommended to upgrade throwout bearing)
Simple custom pilot bushing or modified nissan unit (very easy to modify)
Parts required from other sources
13B clutch disc (splines need to be changed to nissan/370z splines)
Driveshaft (custom) with 350/370z front yoke & mazda differential companion flange
Some more details:
Currently installed on previous record-holding time attack car
All parts were FARO ARM plotted with extremely high accuracy.
Starter requires very minor modification. It really takes about 5 minutes, and is better than buying a new starter.
Shifter position is "tunable" to a degree. It can be moved about 4 to 5 inches forward of where the factory Nissan 370z Shifter lever cup is situated on the transmission.
For the current installation, the factory shifter position is what the owner/driver of the car prefers, and we did not need to change its position. A car with factory seating position might need it moved forward.
Transmission is about 11.5 inches wide - transmission tunnel may require some "cold working" with a calibrated smashometer or variable-angle swing-press.
That's all I got for now.
It's running. Will be tested very soon. And then more details to follow.
Mods, please let me know where to move this if it's in the wrong place / against the rules. Thought you rotary guys might want to know someone is working on a 6 speed conversion that isn't made of glass and isn't half the price of a key of booger sugar, that's all!
Hey there im interested in this kit anyone have a direct number or email for careless
I don't have any stock right now and I don't have an estimated date for when I'll have more.
Inquiring minds want to know; rather than make vague overtures, why not get the quotes together, determine the current kit price, and see if see if there is sufficient demand to move forward?
.
I don't have any stock right now and I don't have an estimated date for when I'll have more.
count me in for the next batch! Made an account finally just to contact you! If you could pm me i have a few questions. Still a new account so can’t message you yet!
Hope it's ok to post this in the thread like this. Admins, if not please let me know and I'll move it to a for sale section.
I have a full setup for sale that I put together for my 20B Cosmo, after driving a DCT car decided to go DCT whilst I'm at stage of build I easily can.
- New CD009 high rev 6 speed manual box + original fittings
- New adapter kit from Careless
- New high output starter
- New Serial Nine CD999 shifter - https://www.serialnine.com/cd999-shifter
- PST carbon fibre drive shaft - CD009 to Ford 8.8 (Length is for Eunos Cosmo, can be shortened for other vehicles) - https://pstds.com/
- Custom made box mount to stock Cosmo mounting location + polyurethane mount (Obviously only useful for using in a Cosmo!)
I have developed a transmission adapter for the 370Z 6 Speed MT transmission to bolt up to the 13B rear housing, and the assembly is now installed in a local time-attack vehicle that has undergone some serious upgrades in the drivetrain department as well as other areas. It will be going for testing in the following couple of weeks before the tracks close for the season.
The JK40C transmissions are relatively commonplace now. They are easy to locate, acquire, tear down, and inspect. They are extremely durable Warner style synchromesh transmissions that have beefy gears and have been good to some VQ35's turning 9000 RPM.
Here's a photo of the transmission mounted to the engine (or the engine mounted to the transmission, considering it's about 2 times the size )
The way the starter mounts is important for not hitting the frame rail, but I will post photos once it is tested and running. So far we HAVE gotten the car to start and idle with no odd sounds coming from any of the modifications we've made to the drivetrain.
I am posting here because I couldn't find a drivetrain section, and I've seen people attempt the V160/161, Supra Getrag, Z32, and T56 transmission adapters, but no one stepped up to develop a 370z trans, and they are relatively stout when compared to what's already available. Perhaps even overkill for most.
If anyone has any questions, concerns, feedback; please post away. I'm looking to make this kit available in the near future.
The current list of mods that are required to get such an item running in a car with a rotary motor isn't extremely extensive. It's pretty standard for a foreign transmission to be installed on a completely different engine:
Parts that I've engineered/fabricated
flywheel spacer and lock-plate disc
13B rear iron to 370z bell-housing adapter + custom flathead socket cap screws
13B manual to 370z bell housing starter adapter/mount
370Z throwout bearing spacer (recommended to upgrade throwout bearing)
Simple custom pilot bushing or modified nissan unit (very easy to modify)
Parts required from other sources
13B clutch disc (splines need to be changed to nissan/370z splines)
Driveshaft (custom) with 350/370z front yoke & mazda differential companion flange
Some more details:
Currently installed on previous record-holding time attack car
All parts were FARO ARM plotted with extremely high accuracy.
Starter requires very minor modification. It really takes about 5 minutes, and is better than buying a new starter.
Shifter position is "tunable" to a degree. It can be moved about 4 to 5 inches forward of where the factory Nissan 370z Shifter lever cup is situated on the transmission.
For the current installation, the factory shifter position is what the owner/driver of the car prefers, and we did not need to change its position. A car with factory seating position might need it moved forward.
Transmission is about 11.5 inches wide - transmission tunnel may require some "cold working" with a calibrated smashometer or variable-angle swing-press.
That's all I got for now.
It's running. Will be tested very soon. And then more details to follow.
Mods, please let me know where to move this if it's in the wrong place / against the rules. Thought you rotary guys might want to know someone is working on a 6 speed conversion that isn't made of glass and isn't half the price of a key of booger sugar, that's all!
Hope it's ok to post this in the thread like this. Admins, if not please let me know and I'll move it to a for sale section.
I have a full setup for sale that I put together for my 20B Cosmo, after driving a DCT car decided to go DCT whilst I'm at stage of build I easily can.
- New CD009 high rev 6 speed manual box + original fittings
- New adapter kit from Careless
- New high output starter
- New Serial Nine CD999 shifter - https://www.serialnine.com/cd999-shifter
- PST carbon fibre drive shaft - CD009 to Ford 8.8 (Length is for Eunos Cosmo, can be shortened for other vehicles) - https://pstds.com/
- Custom made box mount to stock Cosmo mounting location + polyurethane mount (Obviously only useful for using in a Cosmo!)
Hope it's ok to post this in the thread like this. Admins, if not please let me know and I'll move it to a for sale section.
I have a full setup for sale that I put together for my 20B Cosmo, after driving a DCT car decided to go DCT whilst I'm at stage of build I easily can.
- New CD009 high rev 6 speed manual box + original fittings
- New adapter kit from Careless
- New high output starter
- New Serial Nine CD999 shifter - https://www.serialnine.com/cd999-shifter
- PST carbon fibre drive shaft - CD009 to Ford 8.8 (Length is for Eunos Cosmo, can be shortened for other vehicles) - https://pstds.com/
- Custom made box mount to stock Cosmo mounting location + polyurethane mount (Obviously only useful for using in a Cosmo!)
)
