I found this great website, thought I would share as this has been covered over and over again.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~onec...-%20part%20one

 

Props to the author for the writeup, but I dont like that method...you dont have to remove the front pulley to get timing.

Remove both rear plugs, align an apex seal in the center of each hole, mark pulley each time. Measure halfway between the marks on the pulley, the shorter distance (not around the other side of the pulley, the longer distance). The halfway point is TDC for the front rotor. Now you'll need to use a degree wheel or other measurements to add 5* atdc for stock timing, or whatever timing you wish to mark/run. Simple as that, and no risk of grenading bearings and such under the front cover after having to remove that horrible loctited torque monster of a front hub bolt.

 

I read on NoPistons that some people doesnt agree with the line-up of the bolts/index pin, looking at my MFR aluminium pulley, i will have to agree. This method is not 100% accurate.
but since it is only a matter of a few degrees, i doubt it will affect anything on a non turbo rotary.

 

I use the grooves on the flywheel. Just line it up with the rear plate and you got 0. you have to remove the inspection plate on the passenger side.

 

As of yesterday i used that website to figure out timingmarks on my lightweight pulley.
http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/13bpport.JPG

The webauthor IS wrong about lining up the boltholes up to find TDC, dont use it.

He is right about marking the pulley for timingmarks, I used his formula to mark 25 and 30 degrees on the pulley.

 

There is nothing wrong with the bolt holes. it is a true TDC or 0. If you have a 12-A, the first mark will always be zero.

Here's another site that may help you.
http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/pultime.html

 

just thought i'd throw this in the pot.

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=120