Last time I had my car dyno tuned at XS, they said that my car had a lot of carbon and unburnt fuel in my motor and that they had to back off on the timing and richen it because the motor kept pinging. Because of that I didn't make too much power. Does anyone know how I can get rid of the carbon and unburnt fuel in my motor? I know that there is an additive that you can use for piston engine to let it soak overnight and that will get rid of it, but does it work on rotary engines? Anyone have any ideas at all short of a full motor rebuild?

 

Water down the intake while the car is running...

 

To clarify, he is not saying to spray your intake with water as if you were cooling the motor down. But to actually spray water into the intake and into the rotor chamber.
If you mix a little rubbing alcohol with the water I think it works better. Depending on which series intake you have changes where the best point to inject the water from.
If you set it up in a plastic bottle that you can squeeze and shoot short squirts it is best.
Get someone to hold the rpm's at about 3500 or so because everytime you give it a squirt it is going to try to stall. If you try it at an idle it will die. Let it steady out between squirts and probably 20 squirts will work for you.

 

Thanks for clarifying my post...I should have been more specific. I have used a rubber bulb with 4mm hose attached and shoot spurts down the nipple where the boost gauge is usually plumbed. Alchohol is a good idea as it will also help the combustion cycle as you have to bring up the revs as you add the water because the engine tries to die.. BTW: I believe I have meet you once. I walked into the shop Ivan was working on an FD..I was with my Brother...he was buying a fan from Ivan.

 

um your engine has like 5k miles on it? how much could it carbon up in 5k miles?

mike

 

The harness on my main coil got disconnected. I drove all the way down to LA without trailing ignition, so there was a lot ofbuild up fr unburnt fuel and carbon I didn't find out until it was too late.

 

thick carbon, higher compression, more power!

 

rebuild lol

 

redline the **** out of the engine.

 

redline of the **** out of the engine.........BAD....my blew that way...it wasnt a rebuild...but two of my apex seals got carbon locked......

i dont know why you would have to squirt water down the hose...i use a water containter...and stick the vacc. line in the container....hold it at 3k...slurp slurp....words damn good..

 

To get a good de-carbonizing you want to give it a lot for hefty shots than what it will be pulling through vacuum. It will clean it out a lot quicker.
People have ran vacuum water injections on V8's for some time now. These setups usually have a inline valve to adjust the amount of flow.
They seem to be more pain in the *** than they would be worth.
But for anyone that is determined to use that setup I would recommend pulling an old windshield washer fluid bottle from just about anything and rig it up.
One way would be to use the little electric pump already in it and wire it in with a momentary on switch. That way you could deutch it anytime you felt a little perky.
Or you could bypass the pump and setup a pickup tube coming in from the top.
You could wire up the low fluid warning sensor built in most of these bottles.
Just be careful showing it off. If this is your only engine mod it would be a pretty sad display. BTW you need to split into two lines on the setup and get the two lines after the split as close to the same length as possible.

 

be careful with the vac line in the bottle of water. I did it while holding the RPMs enough to keep it from stalling, and it ended up melting the black plastic lip on the rear bumper, which dripped onto the exhaust, and caught the bumper on fire. not pretty... but my motor was cleaner! If I was you I would do the shots like they are saying.

left a small hole in the bumper, which a friend and I fixed with fiberglass. looks almost new.. just needs to be repainted.

 

are you guys serious?
water and alchol will clean an engine? i've heard of bottles of stuff that will dissovle the carbon... you run a vac line from the intake to teh bottle which is a aerosol bottle and you rev the engine and release the valve in the aerosol can... this creates a huge plumb of white smoke, but i have yet to find such a product in canada

 

also where are you squirting the water in from? did you pull the filter and just squirt right into the Turbo inlet duct?

before or after the MAF?

 

AFM imean

 

If you ever pulled a piston engine apart that had a bad head gasket between a water seal and a cylinder you will see that the cylinder the coolant got into will be clean as new and the rest of the cylinders will have at least some carbon.

 

nice!

so do i inject the water spray before the AFM? i would assume it would be bad to the AFM? or does it not matter?

 

Time for an Aquamist system!!!

 

Good long term solution and you can run higher boost safely.

Ken

 

I do it as close to the point of intake as possible. On a s4 you have two vacuum ports right next to each other with rubber caps on them. They point straight up and are located in the middle of the intake real close to where it connects to the rotor housing.
These also come in handy for ATF priming too. I am not sure what the s5, or 3rd gen's look like.

 

Shouldn't you set you boost controller to zero? Wouldn't the tank of water become pressurized if the turbos started spooling?

 

That is a good question that I can't answer. I don't have enough turbo experience. But if that was the case you could use one way (check) valves in the line to eliminate that problem.

 

on my s4...i use the vacc. line, on front of dymanic chamber...3rd one down..thise one goes to both rotor housings via lower intake manifold..

that story about the bumper catching on fire is crazy! damn...

just did it today..lol....snapple bottle filled with water...filled it up twice...no melting..shitty man.