turbostreetfighter

i need a set for my race car ASAP!! but i am only driving the alternator and water pump. my reason for using them would be to eliminate and side load on the e-shaft!! you can run the cog belts looser and they will not squeak! BTW it is a 3g.


MWW

RICE RACING

Hate to shatter your dream but....

All of the gear tooth belt drives I have seen for cars INCREASE the bending moment on the shaft ! Together with this ALLOT of alternators suffer bearing failure due to the stress of running one of these.

The reason for this is because 95% of the car ones do not run tensioners, hence they need to run high tension to prevent belt "jumping" wich happens on the water pump pulley due to the low angle of wrap. This tension is OK when cold but when hot Aluminium pulleys "grow" quite a bit and the tension increases allot causing even more stress. To get rid of this you either need to remount the alternator to side mount to give more wrap on the water pump pulley or use a tensioner system to reduce the excessive high tension once everything warms up.

I have been designing and specifying power transmission drives in my last job for three years working with suppliers like DAYCO and Gates and they ALL say the same thing, for light weight and low inertia it is hard to go past the poly "v" belts or if sticking to convention single v designes "m" section is hard to beat.

I personally would not go back to a toothed belt drive unless it was with a tensioner and hardned surfaces (more than normal AL) as it is not worth the headache. THEY STILL LOOK AWSOME and sound real sweet when you use the square section tooth design, but in general they are a hedache compared to a good v belt design.

A v belt will easily transfer the power to drive a water pump and the alternator with far less power loss than a toothed belt system without slipage. Then again what do I know

I would say the only issue is getting the drive ratios you want to suit your engines rpm band of operation, Racing Beat sell nice v belt kits if you want to underdrive your accessories, may not look as good a toothed design but it is more efficient and will cause less stress.

My 0.2c worth on this

RETed

Gee RICE RACING, talk about quickly deflating a thread...


-Ted

87GTR

iTrader: (61)

dang after reading that I need a drink!!

turbostreetfighter

how about a comparison for 'v' belt versus serpentine belts which the 3g come with?

Greg

:cheers:

crispeed

Interesting findings Peter(Rice Racing)
But I have many road racing and a couple of drag racing buddies that are running the Gilmer drive pulleys without any problems. One in particular with a 20B road race car is running it on his alternator, water pump, power steering pump, dry sump oil pump and his mechanical fuel pump and he's turning 9500rpm continous without any excessive adjustment tension/load needed on the pulleys.
The only problem I can see with the above setup would be the drive ratios. Anyone know what the drive ratios are with the above pulleys?
I would like to run the pulleys on my new setup since I allready have my fuel pump with the gilmer pulley/belt combination but the drive ratio would have to suit my rpm use which is the 9500rpm region.

crispeed
87 Rx-7 TII
9.204@150.47mph
2600lbs

SPEED_NYC

iTrader: (3)

Crris, Rice and everybody else; Tim has said that its ok for you guys to just e-mail him all of your questions/concerns individually, because he is too busy to keep up with this thread. and Rice, as for aluminum expanding, Tim has already said that he can make the pullies from chrome molly.

he has been working on my crome mollt FD set for about a week now, i should have pics for you guys soon.