rotor_dee

You have to grind the oil slingers off of each rotor to accomodate for the lobe on the center of the shaft.

Nice build up.

Grizzly

Out of intrest what Apex's are you going to be using? Thats alot of boost your running there....

Its a shame that all the goodies are hidden away deep inside the engine.... I'd wish you luck wih the build but i don't think you need it.

c00lduke

A little be of luck is never a bad thing with a high HP rotary engine.

BTW, do you have any pics of the bearing before it was put in? I havnt looked too close at the inner area of the middle plate but from what I remember it doesnt have alot for something to hold onto.

rotariesrule

ernie,
what is the distance between the studs and the holes they fit into?

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Dee.

The Studs are stock length, just thicker.

rotariesrule

i'm sorry, i meant to ask, how tight of a fit is it in the hole? from the side of the stud to the hole. what is the clearance? can you fit a feeler gage to check it?

rotariesrule

did all the holes have to be done? why not just do the holes from point of ignition to exhaust? will this prevent the rotor housing from being pushed away from the rotor under extreme boost?

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

All 18 were drilled and tapped. If you have some ideas, try them...

rotariesrule

so i guess you don't know then.

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

Like I said, you have ideas, go ahead and do them. Im doing what Ray and I thought best for my application.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

You want to beef up all of the tension studs. The intent is to allow for high boost pressures with minimal engine hard part movement/deflection.

Amazing stuff Ernie, good good ****. I can't wait to see your monster at the track, be sure to let us know when you unleash the beast

mad20b

Its looking good Ernie! I also used the Guru studs on my 20b - I swear by them! Rohan recommends .2mm clearance for the Studs, but my machine guy is ultra fussy & done them to .05mm!! It went together perfectly!

crispeed

Just speculation.

The 0.2mm would help the steel studs from seizing in the rotor housings from repeated heat cycling.
The clearance you give of 0.05mm/0.0020in requires some precise machining for the application. I've seen similar studs in a different application seize to aluminium components form being to tight.
Also I wonder how the Guru studs would deal with the harmonics at those tolerances?
I guess only tiime will tell.

mad20b

Rohan has since started machining at .1 I believe. I will let you know soon - its the off season here now & it will be coming out for inspection.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

I can't take it anymore, I have to ask

How do you install the center plate when using those studs??

mad20b

Same as always.... Studs in last.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

BAM!!

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the response, and please excuse my ignorance

So once the engine is assembled, do you install the studs by hands and then the nuts? or do you torque two nuts together into the stud, torque the stud to the engine, then remove both nuts, repeat the process for every single stud, and then torque every single nuts to the studs? (damn does that makes sense?)

mad20b

Pretty much - yes. I double nutted every stud & wound it in until firm. Then installed the rear plate & torqued down the nuts.

Node

iTrader: (1)

awesome buildup ernie. I'm sure 40psi will sound just nasty

is the GT45R for this motor, or when you get your twankybee?

This will be a streetport?

-Ben Martin

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

Ben,
13b I'll be using the same GT42R. 71mm comp., 1.05 A/R
I may run out of compressor at around 38psi. If I do, I'll have to upgrade next season. It'll be a streetport.
Ernie

680RWHP12A

ernie, that motor is going to be off the hook!! NO FLEX!! .. makes a big difference hope all is well with ya..

t-von

iTrader: (8)

The hp wars continues. LOL!