Corner seals - experienced engine builders please
corner seals - experienced engine builders please
Saw this on Ebay:
Summary
Engine is used, rebuilt- not been started. It has brand new
internals- new 3MM HD apex seals and springs, new side seals and springs,
new corner seals (without the rubber insert) and springs, and rotor side
o-rings and springs.
Whats the advantage of not using the rubber inserts in the corner seals?
Is there a material that could replace the rubber if the rubber is not good for whatever reason???
Summary
Engine is used, rebuilt- not been started. It has brand new
internals- new 3MM HD apex seals and springs, new side seals and springs,
new corner seals (without the rubber insert) and springs, and rotor side
o-rings and springs.
Whats the advantage of not using the rubber inserts in the corner seals?
Is there a material that could replace the rubber if the rubber is not good for whatever reason???
the rubber piece is usually only left out with big street ports or bridge ports,.. its only really there for a little bit of cranking pressure,.. the car will be down a lil on cranking compression without them but it shouldnt really effect anything.
Ah, so they're taken out so they don't interfere with the port in some way, depending on how your port is configured or cut, right?
I have an aggressive street port (Atkins). I've always felt the rubber piece was dead meat after running near 16-1700 degrees of combustion heat and sitting in a 200-250 degree piece of metal for hours at a time. I thinks it hardens and is ineffective after that. Mine were hardened and would leave black marks all over your fingers.... ANYWAY......
That said, could I get a round plug of VITON and mill a channel and match the dimensions of the rubber insert's dimensions, and expect it to work better for longer?
THANKS!!!
I have an aggressive street port (Atkins). I've always felt the rubber piece was dead meat after running near 16-1700 degrees of combustion heat and sitting in a 200-250 degree piece of metal for hours at a time. I thinks it hardens and is ineffective after that. Mine were hardened and would leave black marks all over your fingers.... ANYWAY......
That said, could I get a round plug of VITON and mill a channel and match the dimensions of the rubber insert's dimensions, and expect it to work better for longer?
THANKS!!!
^^ what he said. yeah..if youve got the equipment, milling it out of viton would be fine. rotaryaviation sells them as a 'cord'.. long strip of viton with a slot cut in it that you cut to fit your own seals.
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