Best FMIC for road race?
05-17-02, 02:28 AM
#1
Ghost Ride the Whip
Thread Starter
Best FMIC for road race?
I'm going to get rid of my m2 medium upon the arrival of my single turbo what wouldyou guys think is the best FMIC for road racing?
1.) Apex
2.) greddy 2 row
3.) other _________
1.) Apex
2.) greddy 2 row
3.) other _________
05-17-02, 08:01 PM
#2
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Forget those shiny show car kits and get a Spearco custom bar & plate:
http://www.spearcointercoolers.com/
If you must have a kit for you FD, then this one looks pretty decent IMO:
http://www.turbostreetfighter.com/html/cooler.htm
http://www.spearcointercoolers.com/
If you must have a kit for you FD, then this one looks pretty decent IMO:
http://www.turbostreetfighter.com/html/cooler.htm
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05-18-02, 12:23 PM
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
can someone explain how a front mount would cause overheating for road racing?..... i remember sr used to offer a top mount intercooler, i guess thats for road racing huh?
05-18-02, 12:46 PM
#9
On a long vacation
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Originally posted by cmartinp28
can someone explain how a front mount would cause overheating for road racing?..... i remember sr used to offer a top mount intercooler, i guess thats for road racing huh?
can someone explain how a front mount would cause overheating for road racing?..... i remember sr used to offer a top mount intercooler, i guess thats for road racing huh?
05-20-02, 02:33 AM
#10
Ghost Ride the Whip
Thread Starter
still dont know how all the japanese tuners are getting away with it....
05-20-02, 09:57 PM
#11
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FMIC and overheating
Jason i beg to differ on your opinion, i have been road racing in my car on numerous ocasions in this hot *** Texas weather and NEVER had overheating issues and i even run a stock radiator. my FMIC kit keeps the radiator in the stock location, i also have a lot of local customers that do the same, some with upgraded rad's and some with stock. so basically what i am saying is that all FMIC's are not created equal
mine works!!
www.rotarysc.com prev. turbostreetfighter.com
mine works!!www.rotarysc.com prev. turbostreetfighter.com
05-20-02, 09:59 PM
#12
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when i first came up with the design i thought the same thing so i made a duct that rivets under the stock bellypan and direct aire directly to the radiator bypassing the FMIC!
05-21-02, 09:04 AM
#13
Originally posted by turbostreetfighter
when i first came up with the design i thought the same thing so i made a duct that rivets under the stock bellypan and direct aire directly to the radiator bypassing the FMIC!
when i first came up with the design i thought the same thing so i made a duct that rivets under the stock bellypan and direct aire directly to the radiator bypassing the FMIC!
Jason
05-21-02, 10:53 AM
#14
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I agree with Jason, if you plan to road race you better not take a chance with a typical kit frontmount, most likely you will have overheating problems. If Marcus' kit has special ducting his might work better than the others.
Wade
Wade
05-21-02, 03:18 PM
#15
Ghost Ride the Whip
Thread Starter
If you are using this to direct air thats a different story. Typically the radiator needs to be in the direct path of air to keep temps down when road racing.
05-21-02, 06:49 PM
#16
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Originally posted by 1FooknTiteFD
Can someone please explain how the japanese tuners get away with it then? I want to get rid of my m2 medium becausei don't think it's made for single turbo and also the fact taht there may be pressure loss because of not enough air getting to it. I plan to make custom ducting so that the air goes directly to the radiator.
Can someone please explain how the japanese tuners get away with it then? I want to get rid of my m2 medium becausei don't think it's made for single turbo and also the fact taht there may be pressure loss because of not enough air getting to it. I plan to make custom ducting so that the air goes directly to the radiator.
You may have even noticed NASCAR crewchiefs taping over the radiator duct because the engine is getting too cold. The so-called "secrets" of the Japanese tuners include:1) Oil coolers
2) Upgraded radiators
3) Proper ducting and/or staggering
4) Repositioning of components
The M2 medium should work just fine with a single-turbo. Why wouldn't it?
BTW, a lack of air (or hot air in the case of the SMIC) will reduce the intercooler's efficiency, not the pressure drop. The extra piping that you are talking about for the FMIC would probably increase the pressure drop some, depending on the bends.
Required reading:
The Spearco Catalog
http://www.spearcointercoolers.com/
Corky Bell's "Maximum Boost" or "Supercharged!"
http://www.amazon.com
05-21-02, 07:57 PM
#17
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I remember seeing a setup at sevenstock 3 (Chris, Tony? It was one of you guys I think...) with a FMIC that placed the radiator horizontally and at the bottom of the car, sort of like this: |_ That is one way around it if you must have a FMIC. I don't know how well it worked though but its a novel idea. With the radiator fans on you'd be sucking in cold air from underneath the car, with a little clever ducting it shouldn't be too hard to get good airflow.
12-26-02, 11:41 PM
#19
NorCal 7's Co-founder
Hey, anybody know why the link to www.turbostreetfighter.com isn't working anymore?? I'd really like to get some more info from the manufacturer and probably order one as well to go with my soon coming BNR secret weapon stage 2 twins!!!! Kinda hard to do when I can't access the website. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Laterz.
Zach
Zach
12-27-02, 08:00 AM
#23
Rotary Enthusiast
Are those that are saying to stay with a SMIC sugesting that the top mount is better fro road racing. I would say that the heat soak in the IC would end up causing a lot of problems.
A properly designed FM system with good ducting and so on, should work fine. As long as you don't completely block all air from the rad, you should be OK.
A properly designed FM system with good ducting and so on, should work fine. As long as you don't completely block all air from the rad, you should be OK.
12-27-02, 09:45 AM
#24
80-CU IN ... I like the Diet Coke can mod! That is a nice setup but I wonder if the fan is effective at idle or in stop and go with the hood closed. Setups with unshrouded fans tend to recirculate hot underhood air around the outside of the fan. Curious of your results.
Guys,
I know alot of folks running road courses in the FD and everyone that is serious about it (meaning fully modded cars with drivers that push the limit of the car) runs a front mount has water temp issues. Most have aftermarket or mod'd front ends to let more air in, vented hoods, large twin oil coolers, aftermarket stock mount radiators, and keep boost down to limit water temps. Most of these folks have switched back to stock mounts and water temps come down significantly. I was surprised and would not have believed it otherwise. After learning this, I am almost glad I did not have oil temp and water temp gages when I was lapping TWS!
I believe an effective fmic radiator combo could be devised with a properly sized vertical radiator (the angled radiators suffer from poor air distribution and overall air flow). Look at several solutions found here on the forum as well as the combo that Pettit uses on their three rotor conversions.
Guys,
I know alot of folks running road courses in the FD and everyone that is serious about it (meaning fully modded cars with drivers that push the limit of the car) runs a front mount has water temp issues. Most have aftermarket or mod'd front ends to let more air in, vented hoods, large twin oil coolers, aftermarket stock mount radiators, and keep boost down to limit water temps. Most of these folks have switched back to stock mounts and water temps come down significantly. I was surprised and would not have believed it otherwise. After learning this, I am almost glad I did not have oil temp and water temp gages when I was lapping TWS!
I believe an effective fmic radiator combo could be devised with a properly sized vertical radiator (the angled radiators suffer from poor air distribution and overall air flow). Look at several solutions found here on the forum as well as the combo that Pettit uses on their three rotor conversions.
12-27-02, 02:12 PM
#25
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Originally posted by twokrx7
80-CU IN ... I like the Diet Coke can mod! That is a nice setup but I wonder if the fan is effective at idle or in stop and go with the hood closed. Setups with unshrouded fans tend to recirculate hot underhood air around the outside of the fan. Curious of your results.
Guys,
I know alot of folks running road courses in the FD and everyone that is serious about it (meaning fully modded cars with drivers that push the limit of the car) runs a front mount has water temp issues. Most have aftermarket or mod'd front ends to let more air in, vented hoods, large twin oil coolers, aftermarket stock mount radiators, and keep boost down to limit water temps. Most of these folks have switched back to stock mounts and water temps come down significantly. I was surprised and would not have believed it otherwise. After learning this, I am almost glad I did not have oil temp and water temp gages when I was lapping TWS!
I believe an effective fmic radiator combo could be devised with a properly sized vertical radiator (the angled radiators suffer from poor air distribution and overall air flow). Look at several solutions found here on the forum as well as the combo that Pettit uses on their three rotor conversions.
80-CU IN ... I like the Diet Coke can mod! That is a nice setup but I wonder if the fan is effective at idle or in stop and go with the hood closed. Setups with unshrouded fans tend to recirculate hot underhood air around the outside of the fan. Curious of your results.
Guys,
I know alot of folks running road courses in the FD and everyone that is serious about it (meaning fully modded cars with drivers that push the limit of the car) runs a front mount has water temp issues. Most have aftermarket or mod'd front ends to let more air in, vented hoods, large twin oil coolers, aftermarket stock mount radiators, and keep boost down to limit water temps. Most of these folks have switched back to stock mounts and water temps come down significantly. I was surprised and would not have believed it otherwise. After learning this, I am almost glad I did not have oil temp and water temp gages when I was lapping TWS!
I believe an effective fmic radiator combo could be devised with a properly sized vertical radiator (the angled radiators suffer from poor air distribution and overall air flow). Look at several solutions found here on the forum as well as the combo that Pettit uses on their three rotor conversions.
I got the fan for free so I thought I would try it.( 15" Flexlight.) I will be adding 2 - 7" electric fans and this should solve the problem. 15" fan turns on at 183F - the 2 - 7" fans will turn on at 189F.
Intercooler is an APEX'i GTR core Old Style. Works ( VERY WELL ) I only payed $210 for it.
60F outside air temp idling for 5 min. I had condensation dripping off the intercooler with my 1 fan running. I though that was very kool. The intake pipe can be HOT to touch but the outlet is nice and cool. Intercooler and Radiator are ducked together with my Air condenser in the middle. Definitely not the best but the easiest.
No track time as of yet. But 1 very high speed run up Angeles Crest HWY. and down HWY 3. twords Palmdale. 14 - 15 LBS of boost. min speed 60 max prox 157 3 to 4:30 AM. no trafic average outside air temp 50F. This definitely wasn't Willow Spring in the summer when it gets to be 110 + F outside but so far I was happy with the results. I need suspension big time. No fun drifting at 130MPH when you don't want to.