Say, why dont they make it more round then? Sure you cant change the ecc.path but you can change the housing and rotor surface a bit, wouldnt that help a litle?

 

I just pictured that... Have fun trying to seal it, hahaha...later

 

i wanna buy FD, but i know nothign about ROTARY, i've heard many bad things about it, how it's not tuned properly, can be a problem...and not many ppl know about them

so i wanna learn more about it, any tips before jumping into rotaries?

 

you from melbourne FL?

 

they do tend to make you not want to drive something else.

 

Getting my engine tuned by Steve next summer w/ rets of my club... GOod idea? How much $$ wise would it be worth to you?

 

i'm assuming you mean steve kahn? i've heard nothing but good reviews from him, he'll be tuning mine in spring as well

 

where do you send your car off to have it tuned by him????

 

On the topic of rotaries, I personally feel alot of problems arise when people try to "match" setups. I see it all the time, someone posts how much HP they just dyno'd with (x) turbo setup on( x) 13b, and another posts how they could get at least 40 more horsepower. Screw that mentaility, let someone else max out the afr's and timming and boost of that (x) setup and let them blow it all up for a king of internet claim. Just tune conservative, and get the horsepower YOU want, if you want more, dont lean on it, just get a larger more expensive setup. Someone always will get more than you, but who cares? Yours will make it through seasons instead of weeks.

 

every car relatively has the same problem.. and every car can relatively do the same things.. an 800hp supra's quarter mile time can still be reached with a 400hp FD time.. depends one what you do to the car .. Ie. lightening/ aerodynamics.. such and such

all it really is, is preferance.. if you read about it.. get a chance to test drive one.. know exactly what to do and still enjoy it.. get one.. if you really dont like it as much as you think.. try to avoid it.. really.. every car will most definately have its problem..

rotaries sounds very good from our perspectives.. we'll give the bads obviously to help you understand.. but if you were to ask any 350Z owner, 240sx owner, MkIV supra owner.. they will give you the same ideas.. dont listen to us.. and listen to yourself.. find something you like and just go for it..

hey guys.. my first post and ive been reading on this board for months

 

Um...actually, rotaries are quieter that piston engines, speaking most generally. They burn oil, yes, but not as much as you'd think. And the new Renesis 13b has oil consumption to the point where it is almost negligible.

According to the book Rotary Engine by Kenichi Yamamoto, a book on the rotary published by Mazda, "The rotary engine generally emits a similar amount of CO, more HC, and less NOx, than the reciprocating engine". The engines used for comparisons, I believe, were a carburated 12a and a 1.8 L piston engine. The increased HC can be attributed to the unburnt fuel that passes through the engine. But, rotaries are not necessarily less "emissions friendly" than any other engine. Hell, I think the Renesis 13b is rated at a LEV-2, right up there with the 350z and S2000.

Another advantage of the rotary is it's rather low profile. Given how small and compact the engine is, the engine can be mounted lower than piston motors, and closer to the center of the car for a better balance. While just now, cars like the 350 and S2000 have front-midship designs, such a design can be found on the FC3S and FD3S, originating up to 10-15 years prior to the release of the said cars.

 

I use to think that these cars are a pain and need rebuilds and stuff...Then i came on the board and saw that half the people who had them boosted way to much without a tune and where redlineing the thing all day. Its how you take care of your car that matters, the motor will last a long time if your good to it.

 

Um, crack is bad for your health, speaking most generally.

Bring your Kenichi Yamamoto book along with your bridgeported 13B to the next emissions test and see if you can pass the test like the guy next to you with the 505hp Z06 Corvette.

 

i have just brought a standard 92 plate fd3 after trying a friends modified(aprox 500bhp)
and even though its not as quick i love it. ok its a pain to have to warm it up and cool it down(but u should any turbo), but knowing what i am driving and what went in to building the car and the commitment the japs put into making it as it is, is worth it. go to www.howstuffworks.com and type in rotary and see what its about and thats just the engine - the history of the car is amazing from its begining to its end, i love it. and thats without driving it.i think for the bhp the mpg isnt to bad and the reliability is as good as any suped up car(1300cc 265 bhp).

 

What about longevity/lifespan of the turbos in the 3rd generation RX7? Is it a good idea to install a turbo timer, is there a water based intercooler, etc? I had a 1985 Dodge Lancer ES 2.2 5 speed turbo car, and since no one told me about running it for a few minutes after "spirited driving" it ended up blowing up because oil hardened and coked the bearings. I just don't want to buy a TT blind without knowing how it stacks up. What's the story on the proper "care and feeding" of the 3rd generation turbo cars?
Thanks,
Tom'
Tulsa, OK

 

you dont need a TT, just keep off the boost a few mintues before you shutdown, and youll be fine. Go with a open exhaust setup, larger radiator, and perhaps a vented hood, and your good. Heat is the killer for lots of FD's

 

[QUOTE=Evil Aviator]Um, crack is bad for your health, speaking most generally.


Take stock rotary engines next to stock piston i thought that rotary would be quiter? I thought that when you start to port and change things is when they get stupid loud.

I think that was what he was talking about?

 

I own a 93 rx7, stored in the garage on top of styrafoam, i start it once a week let it run for 30 to 45min just looking for some storage tips please

 

yeah i have a bridge ported 13b with dual carbs and a straight exhaust a man that focker is loud.. but its a different kinda loud than your standard muscle car v8.. its more of a high ping roar.. nice i like!! but my car does eat the hell outta gas and i think its due to the carbs not being 100$ tuned correctly.. but in do time..

buy one youll laugh youll cry youll LIVE!!!


lee

 

2jz=746lbs with Getrag 6spd while 13B=450lbs~ish with 5spd?

 

I'm just going to use a feature car from a magazine that will remain nameless. I can't get into details cuz I don't have the energy to search through my boxes of mags. One california FD owner has 1000HP as his licence plate. From 1.3L of displacement. Sure every 2JZ-GTE can make that on the stock bottom end, but remind me again what the displacement of that particular engine is. Obviously it's been properly tuned, otherwise he'd have one pricey paperweight. So it must be pretty reliable.

The emissions only suck if its not running properly or you rip the cats off. Noisey, if you don't run mufflers or resonators/presilencers. You can make it as loud or quiet as you want. 1 Rotor = 3 combustion chambers. It spins in a circle, instead of bouncing up and down like a piston engine, which limits vibration considerably. Big power won't cost you your engine mounts.

3 moving parts. 3 whole internal moving parts to fail and cause damage as opposed to 35 on just a two valve per cylinder 4 banger. And I was being conservative in counting those components, and I'm sure I missed a few. It's a long, long list of pros. The fault of any engine that fails is entirely on the shoulders of those that built the individual parts, put the whole thing together, and tuned it. Rotary or piston. The decision is up to you which you go with. Theres more pieces to pick up when a piston engine puts a rod through the block.

 

Hello, you always have to check the oil level they burn a mix of fuel and oil. Also if you omn a 93 and up rx7, they are know to have enguine failure due to lack of lubrication on the rear housing, the rear housing is more expose to heat, if you insulate the down pipe and the rear housing area you would fix this problem. Also they have a boost problem, if you do a single turbo conversion most of you troubles will go away.Other than that they are excellent and powerful cars.

 

How is 250hp out of a 1.3 engine not efficient? I though that RX-7's have the best power/displacement ratio out of anything in stock form.

 

As far as the bad mpg argument.. My friend and I did this little comparison for giggles.

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/F...omy_Comparison

as far as I can tell... the mpg:hp ratio is pretty consistent with some brand new vehicles.

This does not speak of emissions though... which obviously would be worse on a much older vehicle.

 

If one seal goes in the motor it can destroy everything in the motor as well as your turbos, like it did to me. Thats def a downside. But I think and upside was replacing everything and customizing the motor to what I wanted with Street porting and 3mm apex seals as we as a T04 S Turbo and upgraded fuel sys and power FC. I guess it all depends on how you look at everything. But I got 407 HP now so I dont mind.