Asking for more advice on rotary swapping a Beetle
Hi there. I posted this question on the new member technical, and I hope this is also the right thread to post it on so I apologise if it isn't.
I was hoping to get some more advice as what I've received so far has been useful. I've been advised to try to get a turbo block, maybe a 13B-T from an FC, and ensure my cooling system is up to scratch.
Does anyone have any more advice on this and things like turbos, turbo setups, ECUs, and any other advice for rotary swaps in general?
Thanks in advance
I have a 1970 VW Beetle 1300. I want to rotary swap it. I have looked at various 13Bs: Renesis, REW, FC (N/A and turbo). Despite all this, I still haven't really narrowed down what the best option would be when accounting for cost effectiveness, reliability, part support etc.
I am not looking to really make anything over around 300whp at most as I don't have a death wish, Beetles weigh around a ton and I don't want it to be super undrivable or super unreliable.
Thoughts anyone? I'm open to any advice or opinions I can get lol.
I am not looking to really make anything over around 300whp at most as I don't have a death wish, Beetles weigh around a ton and I don't want it to be super undrivable or super unreliable.
Thoughts anyone? I'm open to any advice or opinions I can get lol.
Does anyone have any more advice on this and things like turbos, turbo setups, ECUs, and any other advice for rotary swaps in general?
Thanks in advance
There are numerous ecus that should be able to run the different model engines. Renesis is most complex with additional injectors, runner switching and DBW throttle. I'd personally be happy with anything from 1980-2000 block wise, you need to think about if you want to use factory intake manifold/injection/carb or aftermarket. I'd go fuel injection and full ignition control myself even if it's still using an IDA or Holley footprint throttle body/manifold.
Edit: looks like you are in the UK, that may be a consideration in terms of ecu choice and local support. Link, Haltech, Maxxecu amongst others should be fine, probably worth talking to local dealers. Beytek has rotary experience if you're in Scotland otherwise there are a few larger workshops that do rotary work around the place.
You want a large radiator and oil cooler, you may need an additional water pump in the circuit. If going aftermarket management consider a ~70 degree thermostat, it will give a marginal bottom end torque gain.
You may want to modify the fuel tank for greater capacity and potentially to suit an internal surge/high pressure pump arrangement.
There should be a lot of adapter kit options to suit the VW gearbox, people have been doing it for a long time.
Good luck, sounds like a cool project.
Edit: looks like you are in the UK, that may be a consideration in terms of ecu choice and local support. Link, Haltech, Maxxecu amongst others should be fine, probably worth talking to local dealers. Beytek has rotary experience if you're in Scotland otherwise there are a few larger workshops that do rotary work around the place.
You want a large radiator and oil cooler, you may need an additional water pump in the circuit. If going aftermarket management consider a ~70 degree thermostat, it will give a marginal bottom end torque gain.
You may want to modify the fuel tank for greater capacity and potentially to suit an internal surge/high pressure pump arrangement.
There should be a lot of adapter kit options to suit the VW gearbox, people have been doing it for a long time.
Good luck, sounds like a cool project.
Last edited by Slides; Nov 30, 2024 at 03:54 AM.
I was planning to turbo the engine so to fit the engine into the engine bay I think I will most likely need aftermarket or custom manifolds anyway.
I was thinking of looking into uprated or aftermarket injection and fuel systems and don't think I'd get a carb engine anyway, I think that fuel injection is probably the better option for rotaries
I will do more research into rotary specialists around my area. I'm in the south of England so Scotland is a little out of my region but I will look into Beytek regardless
I was going to try to see if I could do a smaller radiator on either side of the engine as I ideally don't want to have to run piping the entire length of the car for front mount. It would make fitting intercoolers and oil coolers easier too if I could fit them all together anyway but until I have the engine I won't exactly know if I'll have space. Do you think a dry sump system may be beneficial? And what about water/methanol injection as a preventative measure to reduce intake air temps and reduce the risk of detonation etc.?
Fuel tank wise I was thinking of trying to get a custom or modified tank that's larger and is baffled, and I was going to upgrade the beetle fuel system (pump, fuel lines etc.) anyway so that will be covered
I was going to try going with a 911 996 gearbox instead of the beetle one for the extra gears and also to better handle the power and rpms of a rotary, while hopefully also shifting the weight distribution forward a little but we'll see.
Thank you I'm going to need luck I think
I was thinking of looking into uprated or aftermarket injection and fuel systems and don't think I'd get a carb engine anyway, I think that fuel injection is probably the better option for rotaries
I will do more research into rotary specialists around my area. I'm in the south of England so Scotland is a little out of my region but I will look into Beytek regardless
I was going to try to see if I could do a smaller radiator on either side of the engine as I ideally don't want to have to run piping the entire length of the car for front mount. It would make fitting intercoolers and oil coolers easier too if I could fit them all together anyway but until I have the engine I won't exactly know if I'll have space. Do you think a dry sump system may be beneficial? And what about water/methanol injection as a preventative measure to reduce intake air temps and reduce the risk of detonation etc.?
Fuel tank wise I was thinking of trying to get a custom or modified tank that's larger and is baffled, and I was going to upgrade the beetle fuel system (pump, fuel lines etc.) anyway so that will be covered
I was going to try going with a 911 996 gearbox instead of the beetle one for the extra gears and also to better handle the power and rpms of a rotary, while hopefully also shifting the weight distribution forward a little but we'll see.
Good luck, sounds like a cool project.
Radiators may be hard to package unless you run one of the big whale tail/deck wings. Turbo box would definitely be nice.
Water/meth definitely won't hurt, and I think in UK & Aus is more practical than flex fuel.
Water/meth definitely won't hurt, and I think in UK & Aus is more practical than flex fuel.
Yeah, fitting in radiators is something I won't be able to really figure out until I have an engine and gearbox sitting in front of me to play around with so we'll see. It's a case of which headache I want: Trying to pack the radiators into the rear or running coolant lines the entire length of the car and mounting radiators up front.
Flex fuel would sadly be pretty much impossible as we don't have E85 or ethanol on pump / widely available, only as race fuel twice the price of E5 premium unleaded, but once again until I have stuff to tinker with I won't really know space restraints too well.
I won't be running a crazy tune or anything so I was thinking more as a preventative measure for detonation and stuff.
Any idea about what apex seals I should try? I've heard ceramics are pretty much the best of the best but also stupid expensive, hard to get and overkill for anything other than racing. Any thoughts?
Water/meth definitely won't hurt, and I think in UK & Aus is more practical than flex fuel.
I won't be running a crazy tune or anything so I was thinking more as a preventative measure for detonation and stuff.
Any idea about what apex seals I should try? I've heard ceramics are pretty much the best of the best but also stupid expensive, hard to get and overkill for anything other than racing. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the advice. I figured ceramic may be a little overkill. I've heard Goopy apex seals are good aftermarket but still more expensive. So would the answer still be stock for my application?
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The factory seals have good heat tolerance and hardness and tend to be the best other than ceramics for seal and housing wear.
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
some people like to substitute the Rx8 seal, N3H1-10-508, but while it has a 100% success rate in the Rx8, in the Rx7 it likes to spin in the stationary gear
other than that, you should just measure and check the function of everything you can.
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