for the water temp gauge, I went with mechanical (it takes a long time for the cars to cool down) and you car will definitely hit 240 in the summer, so go 280

 

Very cool Ron! I've seen them in general aviation catalogs and I have one at my parents house that I bought years ago for my Corvair. It has a rotary selector so you can look at any cylinder you want. What kinda temps do you see with this gauge?

 

I think somebody makes a thing where you can run the mech fuel pressure guage inside the car. Well Do you guys think it would be ok to smoke in the car???hehe
Can you smell gas if you do this??

 

If you have the coolant temperature sensor in the correct place, then you shouldn't see more than 215 F in your coolant else you're going to boil your water jacket o-ring seals.

240 F will definitely mean a rebuild.

If you see that much and your car is running fine, then you have it mounted in a bad location as you are measuring some of the heat retained in the housing or aluminum casing.

J

 

Yeah it's call an "isolater", someone already mentioned this. Don't have any experiance with it but it would be my guess that you shouldn't have gas fumes inside the car.

 

You run a CHT gauge? That is freaking sweet man. Could you screw a probe into the block where the knock sensor goes?

James

 

whats cht guage???

 

Cylinder Head Temperature.
Won't work on rotaries though, we don't have cylinders j/k
We need a THT (Troichoidal Housing Temperature) gauge.
My choice of gauges, in order of necessity, IMO.

-Boost
-Water Temp
-Fuel Pressure
-EGT
-Oil Temp
-A/F (at least for minor baseline info)
-Oil Pressure (although, with a rotary, you either have enough or none at all)
-Intake Air Temp
-Volt (for those of you with concert halls in your car!)

My choice for gauge mounting.....

 

what do you find these odd guages?? suck intake temps, intercooler temps, tht guage??? i have looked arounf but no luck. Does anybody know if where and who makes these guages??

 

Some of these would be from the aero industry (airplanes, etc)
The problem with some of these is that our favorite gauge makers don't make em', so we wouldn't have a matching set (all Autometer, Defi, Apexi' etc.) I think the cylinder head gauge could be found in some racing supply house, maybe Racers Wholesale or Pegasus Racing.

Frank

 

Actually, the THT gauge I was joking about (you know, since we don't have cylinder heads)
I'm not sure if we could use anything like the CHT or not.

Frank

 

 

Owners of Apex PFC should not worry so much as they can monitor most of the engine's values from their commanders. On my car i have additionally an AVC-R ro get some more values, Apex electrical Boost meter, EGT, Oil Temp, Auto Meter A/f ratio meter (just for indication as i am getting the SARD prfessional one soon) and the new version of the Billion Fan Controller where you can add a water temp sensor for accurate display. Fuel pressure can be monitored from the engine bay with problems.

Soon I will post few pictures of how i have sorted my guages in a Japanese manner.

 

Any pics yet?

Top 3
Water/EGT/Oil Temp

 

i would say boost, egt, and fuel pressure
i am running boost,egt,fuel press, & oil temp

 

Eeeee...Gotta' have a water temp in there somewhere! Unless you linearize the stock gauge it is absolutely useless, except filling a hole in the dash, IMNSHO

Frank

 

if the stock one is useless why did mazda put it in there. any way for the most part the oil and water temp are usualy close to each other. will be getting water temp sooner or later.

 

Mazda put one there because every sportscar should have one. What they didn't do was make it have a linear action. The 13BREW runs hot and they didn't want people freaking out when the gauge was near the top, so they made it so it wouldn't move. The problem is that by the time the gauge moves to towards the top spectrum of the gauge it is probably to late (even if it says its within the "normal" range. IMHO, Mazda really screwed up on the water temp gauge, ask any veteran on the forum or big list, it's useless, if the needle moves above the halfway point you're at about 230F (don't remember the actual number, but it is way too high) if your gauge gets up to where the danger zone is you are above 240F, and thats not good. I agree that on an R1 package the water and oil temps are about the same, but on non-R1's it's a different story. For the price of a real water temp gauge it's worth the piece of mind knowing EXACTLY what your temps are.
Hey, Sokudo, get rid of your A-pillar pod, move your tach to the right and I can set you up with a center speaker pod that will hold (3) gauges (including your new water temp)

Regards,
Frank

 

no thanks dont like the center pods and i can get it cheaper my self. i have the dual oil coolers. i only run quarter mile at a time any way so doesnt get that hot

 

At 1/4 mile runs it doesn't really matter I guess. But I'm curious, you say you can get a (3) pod center speaker gauge pod cheaper? I thought I had that covered. Where can you get these?

Frank

 

I was in a Cirrus last week which had a combo 'cylinder head temp' and 'EGT' gauge.

Do you have any more information on where to purchase a gauge like you pictured? Any installation guidance?

 

FlyRX7, that is one sweet mount for guages. As soon as I decide what my 4th guage is I'll be giving you a PM.

 

Wow, this thread is old! I didn't even get an email notification, I just happened by and noticed this.

DaedelGT, I'll hook you up, but if it's the non-stock stuff be prepared to wait, I'm slammed. Too many customs and building a new shop take up alot of time.

Regards,
Frank

 

The air/fuel gauge is useless only if you buy a useless one.

 

Oil pressure
Water Temp
AFR