Speed Addict

How much HP does your Second Gen N/A Rx-7 have?
Or, What is your best time in an N/A 2nd Gen?

CarmonColvin

I assume that was an open all for anybody to post dyno numbers and time slips... so here is the latest on "Project PartsTrader"

On October 27th, I had my car on a Dyno Jet chassis dyno. I don't have the print outs in front of me so I don't remember the torque numbers or RPM's but the car laid down 140 hp.

Yesterday, November 11, I took the car to the 1/4 mile strip in Steele, Al (unknown elevation) and laid down a 14.848 ET @ 92.19 MPH. With a weak 2.100 60ft time it is obvious I have some traction problem (and clutch problems).

I know most peole think that a n/a FC can't lay down a 14.8 with only 140 hp... well.... the car weighes in the neighborhood of 2300lbs.!


Here is what has been done the car that would benefit a 1/4 mile time.
Cone Filter Intake,
Ribed Pulley Kit,
"Road Race" exhaust header,
Dual mid-pipe,
Apex-i GT Single Exhaust,
MDS Ignition on Leading coil,
Fluidyne Radiator

FYI: the motor is the original 13b with 160k+ miles on it with low compression on rear rotor.

Tires (Yokahoma Road Race 10x23x15" on all 4 corners).

To see a pic of the car on a Solo II course check this out (warning: LARGE image)
http://www.rotarymiata.com/speedway/...s/PA280028.JPG

SPZ510

Can you tell me how you got your 2nd gen down to 2300lbs. I know my 87 bone stock weighed 2650 with no extras, stereo,rims,ect. I was thinking I could get my 86 track car down to 2450 with some serious luck. And that is gutted.

1.3liter_of_power

Are far you from houston? My 91na dynoed at 128rwhp and 121ftb that was with 5/6th ports stuck and fouled plugs. Have not taken her to the track yet, but can't wait until i do.


91na
intake,exhaust,S-AFC:p

Speed Addict

I'm in Missouri City.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

My 87 TII is tipping the scales at about 2550lbs right now with a most of the interior in it (seats, carpet, door panels, power mirrors, sunroof, windows) and about 1/2 tank of gas.

Since TII drivetrains weigh more than n/a drive train I don't see that 2300lbs is all THAT difficult, but it IS pretty light.

I've left the pwr steering in, here is a short list of what I've done.

Removed all emissions, cats, airpump, a/c compressor, condensor, etc. (~125lbs)
Straight through exhaust, no muffler (~25-30lbs)
51R battery (10lbs)
Removed front bumper support (~15-20lbs)
Removed heater, a/c evap, blower motor, stereo and ducts from dash(42lbs)
300zx n/a wheels, saving over stock 87-88TII wheels (20-25lbs)

More wieght could be saved by removing the pass seat (33lbs) and replacing drivers seat with lightweight racing seat (save another 10-20lbs?). Carpet, door panels, etc could also be removed for a total savings of around 80-100lbs?

FYI the sunroof assembly complete weighs about 33lbs. That includes the sunroof panel. The roof of a sunroof car has extra brackets also. I'd guess a car without a sunroof weighs about 30lbs less than a sunroof car.

I know a guy with a 88 convert with a TII drivetrain in it that tips the scales at 2500lbs. Completely stripped, no top, no nothing...

CarmonColvin

The car started life as an '86 base model (4 lug)(no sunroof).

I swaped over to a 5 lug suspension from a '87 Turbo II (that added weight).
The car has all interior removed execpt for the dash (heater and AC evaporator are still in there).
Both seats have been replaced with Sparco racing seats that weight about 11lbs each.
Some of the sound deadening tar has been removed.
I have an aluminum hood from a convertible.
Front bumper support and hardware have been removed.
All emessions stuff have been removed.
Exhaust consist of a "road race" header straight into an Apexi' N1 single exhaust (close to 100lbs savings).
Doors have been drilled (still have stock glass).
All hood & hatch latching hardware have been removed (in favor of hood pins.

SPZ510

Thanks for the response. Alot of people would'nt even do that.
What do you mean by drilling the doors. So far my track car is right on par with yours as far as weight mods, but I'm not sure I can afford the 11lb seats. Probably close though. Also I won't be needing TII drivetrain stuff since HP will be below 280fwhp. Thanks again. I'm thinking of molding up my doors to make some carbon fiber doorskins and mount them with some brakets off my cage. Also for less than $200 Im having a lexan rear hatch made. Im still weary about that 2300lbs but if you've actually weighed yours, I'll take your word for it. Damn, I'd be down in the 12's with that.Sweeeet!

CarmonColvin

By drilling the doors I mean I took a drill with a 3/4" drill bit and drilled about 100 holes in each door. At best that removed about 2lbs from each side. I am allowed to "gutt" the entire door but I don't have the budget to replace the windows with lexan so I have to retain the stock window tracks, otherwise I would of taken a disk cutter to it and removed another 10lbs.

2300 lbs is a VERY good educated guess on my behalf. The last time I had the car on scales was back in June and the car was right at 2450 lbs with a Solo I Roll bar (~80lbs) and a full tank of gas.
Since then I have removed the roll bar, know I lost a bit over 50lbs from the exhaust, The AL hood dropped about 20lbs, removing the front bumper support and garbage up front lost another 30-40lbs.

And other things that come to mind now: my wheels only weigh 13.5 lbs each and the tires are just as light and from memory the Ground-Control coil over assemblies were a few pounds less than the stock spring/shock assemblies.

Over the winter break I will move my battery to the back of the car and plan on moving some other stuff around too (not to reduce weight but to move it towards the center of the car). Once I have that done I will take it back to a shop that has scales so I can corner balance the car. Once I do that I will have another accurate weight of the car.