you can get over 400HP from a 'street' port 3 rotor n/a

 

This is what Skip Gorman at Revolution Rotary has to say about n/a 3 rotor conversions:

"The ones I did I didn't even change the rotors and it ran great. Little different timing curve. And I have mounts that drop right into the 2nd gen, no mods.Use a turbo fuel pump, bolts right in. Set of headers, stand alone computer and their you have it . Roughly I figure $6500 -$7500 maybe. That is all rebuilt all new seals, porting, injectors flow matched. Our race car is a twin turbo engine with no turbos. I'm not a turbo fan either. Our 2nd gen with an auto trans runs mid 13's and 108mph & change with no turbo hassle.I could crunch some numbers I have one apart now.3mm apex seals with dual springs and changed the rotor housing inserts to less restrictive. thanks Skip"

This is what Rob @ Pineapple Racing has to say:

"A n/a 3rtr. can be run with 2 carbs or fuel inj. The
core motors are going for 4000-$4500 on average when
we can find one. To put non turbo rotors and porting
would cost $2000 to $5000 on average. To put the 3rtr
in a FC requires a different crossmember and other
parts. The project if you do the labor for the install
would be 10k+ by the time you upgraded the fuel
system, plus, plus. You know how big projects go!
Power from a p/port 3rtr in street trim, but radical
is 400-425hp. Rob"

I would love to do this conversion. Just run a 20B without turbo and a standalone with computer and wow! so much power! Note that Skip says that he has mounts that will make it work.
Jeremy

 

racerX you can keep your two cents next time. Why did you drop the ole V8 bomb? Dude! With that rational why did Reknown use a 4 rotor in stead of a V8 and win LeMans OVER f-n ALL.
Even in street car terms, a three rotor n/a would be a very feasible and realistic option. Maybe it wouldn't be such a great idea for a road race car b/c of balance. Maybe!
just my 2 cents
jeremy

 

Yep, that LeMans car was so bad *** that it got banned the following year! How far back was the closest car?Put ANY V8 against that.

 

yummy all i know is i want one of those bad boys. who wants to do the funding? haha

 

Why not keep it turbo and just not injected? I seem to remember the biggest advantage of blow through turbos being superior fuel atomization...no reason not to, right? Won't it kill about 50% of the headache? (Computer, harness, etc, etc...)

 

The stock 20b turbo in the cosmo makes about 280hp and 290 ftlbs tq. This tells you that torque is not a problem and would most likely be higher than the hp rating. A race engine n/a 3 rotor can make 600hp. 400hp is easy to get and will be very reliable. A 20b turbo can make up to 1200 hp but I'm not sure if anyone has actually done it. A 26b has the potential to make close to 2000 hp with every mod possible.

 

ummm, like I keep telling you guys, I'm a little new onto these forums, and from australia.. why do you guys insist on dropping out the EFI?
I can jump on the phone and have me a fully programmable engine management computer for maybe $3000 australian dollars, maybe $2000 for you guys.

 

I like injectors, injectors are our friends!

 

why do you think most of the racecars use carb technology ? maybe not most, but many of em

 

its more tunable, and more powerfull in a certain way.

 

I would stick to Rob's estimate, but just note that the 400hp+ PP is going to cost more and will not be street legal in any way, shape, or form. I've been sitting at my computer for 5 minutes now trying to say something good about the other estimate, but I don't think it's possible. Does Skip's 20B-powered car really make the same times as my 88 TII did with under $1,000 in mods and absolutely no lightening?

No, it isn't, but if a mechanic doesn't understand any technology advances since 1970, then he will probably prefer the carburetor.

Never underestimate the ignorance of the American shadetree drag racer.

FYI, even in America, the base Microtech LT-8 EMS sells for about the same price as the Racing Beat 13B Holley carb kit.

 

Ok, the 20B is twin sequential turbo, stock. If you go N/A, you are going to lose a hell of a lot of power. It is designed to be boosted. Putting high compression rotors in it would just take too much time and money... use it like it was designed, and you'll be very happy.

Revolution Rotary has a 20B with a Camden supercharger on it in a B2000... it does 120 mph in the 8th. (not the quarter) He hasn't ran it down the quarter mile yet, cause he's scared.

They also have a 2003 Miata with a 20B in it. The car is completely gutted, and they are selling the whole setup for 10g.

check out their site... www.revolutionrotary.com

 

from what i understand tha engine is not that much heavier than a 13b look at engine wieght we put one in at tha garage i work at in a fc and they almost wiegh the same it's not tha much it just looks big...just my opinion.

 

We think it's only like 75 more pounds than a 13B, but I could be way off my rocker.

After pulling off all the manifolds from my 20B, it feels like it weighs as much as my REPU engine with stock heavy flywheel, cast iron waterpump, and old Hitachi carb on it.

 

I'm crazy about the idea of an N/A 20B engine. If/when I actually get the money to do something like this I'll let you guys know. I'm with Evil for the most part on the whole thing. I love EFI, carb is nice and easy and all, but EFI is better (aka more efficient).

BTW, I hate new people who don't know what they're talking about. Stupid claims with little to no experience (which is not relative to the post count you have) of the things they claim. Why does some people insist on putting in their "2 cents" when nearly all people simply throw pennies on the ground? Why not keep your thoughts if they're worth only 2 cents...

Forgive me if this seems like a rant, but it's annoying. No offense to any one person, just food for thought when you wanna post something like it's "set in stone"...

 

I tend to agree. That's why I'm going NA on my 20B. Similar weight, but with the power of a T2 that will last forever. That is to say, I plan to keep the car forever, so I might as well build it to last.