Ronin FD Widebody
10-13-12, 11:34 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ronin FD Widebody
The newest Ronin product--and one that we’re extremely proud of--is the Ronin FD widebody kit. This is a full four corner wide body that’s intended to let you run 315 front and 335 or 345 rear tires. These fenders mean business and are intended for serious usage. The kit is our own and quite different than anything else available on the market. The front fenders have been available in limited production for about a year now. The rears are literally hot off the presses. I can’t tell you how many man hours we spent getting these just right. It’s HARD to make a widebody where the lines flow well with the curves the factory intended.
Just a couple shots of front development (note the lines of the edges).
Finished pictures of a few customers rocking our fronts (it was before rears were finished so we won’t hold that against them)
Brent:
Rich:
Check the trick stainless mesh he added!
...continued below:
Just a couple shots of front development (note the lines of the edges).
Finished pictures of a few customers rocking our fronts (it was before rears were finished so we won’t hold that against them)
Brent:
Rich:
Check the trick stainless mesh he added!
...continued below:
10-13-12, 11:37 PM
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
… and here is Mike AKA 65imp’s car (one of the illustrious Ronin founders). Note: Mike’s fenders were a one off in carbon, for now we are not selling them that way as we are presently smoothing a few seam lines for y’all before we send these out and we can’t do that with a carbon part. Ignore the v8, if that’s not your thing… ;-)
Here’s the rear coming together. Mike’s car is a sheet metal widebody with a skim coat of filler to smooth it in.
To give you an idea of what the finished rear looks like, here it is in wet sanded primer just before we started making the molds.
Actual rear fenders fit up on a test car (Thanks Anthony!):
Again check out the edges. We’re taking this all the way forward under the door in order to match up to a factory seam line. These fenders are more than 5 feet long! You do get what you pay for when buying Ronin parts. One change we made from the pictures above is that we’re trimming parts at the car’s “hip” line as it’ll tuck in nicer if you want to rivet these in place AND it will be easier to smooth in if you want to bond these in place.
Before anyone asks, for now we are shipping these without a fuel door or antenna hole. Why? Smooth parts was one of the big things that the race car guys wanted, so we built our molds that way. To add the antenna hole you simply remove the antenna, fit up the fender, trace the location of the hole from below, then trim with a dremel. We recommend you use an 1/8” diameter toothed cutting head to rough out the shape and follow with a sanding drum to make the hole perfect. There are plenty of aftermarket antennas that run inside the car if you want a radio but like the smooth look.
For fuel door you have a few options. The one we like the super clean version via a filler cap relocation like Mike did:
More info on how is in Mike’s build thread: http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=361.30 We should note that the final version went with a standard gas cap after we discovered that CA has none of the standard pumps that work with the “self sealing” caps. The vent opening is outside of the weather seal for the rear hatch. No fuel smell!
Other fuel door options: obviously you can cut out a section of the actual fender and retrofit the piece you just removed to become the door by using an over-center hinge and stop. You can also retrofit in an aftermarket door. (Search “fuel door” on Summit Racing for several hundred options).
We’re kind of curious to see what you clever people can come up with. If someone posts an especially clean version we might start offering it as an option for purchase. What do you got?
Pricing will always be current on our website. http://www.roninspeedworks.net/index...ory&path=60_65 We’ll be adding suggested wheel fitments and installation recommendations to our site shortly.
Feel free to use the rest of this thread to discuss, post pictures, reviews or whatever. What you see here is the culmination of a long road to make truly THE BEST widebody available for the FD. We’re damn proud and hope you like it.
-Joel Payne (for Mike, Steve, and myself)
Here’s the rear coming together. Mike’s car is a sheet metal widebody with a skim coat of filler to smooth it in.
To give you an idea of what the finished rear looks like, here it is in wet sanded primer just before we started making the molds.
Actual rear fenders fit up on a test car (Thanks Anthony!):
Again check out the edges. We’re taking this all the way forward under the door in order to match up to a factory seam line. These fenders are more than 5 feet long! You do get what you pay for when buying Ronin parts. One change we made from the pictures above is that we’re trimming parts at the car’s “hip” line as it’ll tuck in nicer if you want to rivet these in place AND it will be easier to smooth in if you want to bond these in place.
Before anyone asks, for now we are shipping these without a fuel door or antenna hole. Why? Smooth parts was one of the big things that the race car guys wanted, so we built our molds that way. To add the antenna hole you simply remove the antenna, fit up the fender, trace the location of the hole from below, then trim with a dremel. We recommend you use an 1/8” diameter toothed cutting head to rough out the shape and follow with a sanding drum to make the hole perfect. There are plenty of aftermarket antennas that run inside the car if you want a radio but like the smooth look.
For fuel door you have a few options. The one we like the super clean version via a filler cap relocation like Mike did:
More info on how is in Mike’s build thread: http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=361.30 We should note that the final version went with a standard gas cap after we discovered that CA has none of the standard pumps that work with the “self sealing” caps. The vent opening is outside of the weather seal for the rear hatch. No fuel smell!
Other fuel door options: obviously you can cut out a section of the actual fender and retrofit the piece you just removed to become the door by using an over-center hinge and stop. You can also retrofit in an aftermarket door. (Search “fuel door” on Summit Racing for several hundred options).
We’re kind of curious to see what you clever people can come up with. If someone posts an especially clean version we might start offering it as an option for purchase. What do you got?
Pricing will always be current on our website. http://www.roninspeedworks.net/index...ory&path=60_65 We’ll be adding suggested wheel fitments and installation recommendations to our site shortly.
Feel free to use the rest of this thread to discuss, post pictures, reviews or whatever. What you see here is the culmination of a long road to make truly THE BEST widebody available for the FD. We’re damn proud and hope you like it.
-Joel Payne (for Mike, Steve, and myself)
Last edited by Ronin Speedworks; 10-13-12 at 11:57 PM.
10-16-12, 02:42 PM
#4
I really like the location of the integration aspects. I've always wondered why nobody else used the factory weld points. Good job!
Regarding the rear wheel wells, is there any sort of "flat" section to outline the wheel arc, or is it very smooth and blended to the edge. Said differently, the FEED fenders have a very defined wheel arc that is showing up on most new vehicles. This is very different from the factory FD design that is "rolled" out to the edge. Just trying to understand which this is.
Thanks
Regarding the rear wheel wells, is there any sort of "flat" section to outline the wheel arc, or is it very smooth and blended to the edge. Said differently, the FEED fenders have a very defined wheel arc that is showing up on most new vehicles. This is very different from the factory FD design that is "rolled" out to the edge. Just trying to understand which this is.
Thanks
10-19-12, 01:08 PM
#5
I'll have to ask Anthony, that is his car we were testing out the new fenders on.
Thanks for the props, Both our front and rear fenders do not have the crease out near the fender lip. It is a smooth radius all the way out to the wheelwell arc. This is more similar to the factory FD appearance and less like the 350Z.
I really like the location of the integration aspects. I've always wondered why nobody else used the factory weld points. Good job!
Regarding the rear wheel wells, is there any sort of "flat" section to outline the wheel arc, or is it very smooth and blended to the edge. Said differently, the FEED fenders have a very defined wheel arc that is showing up on most new vehicles. This is very different from the factory FD design that is "rolled" out to the edge. Just trying to understand which this is.
Thanks
Regarding the rear wheel wells, is there any sort of "flat" section to outline the wheel arc, or is it very smooth and blended to the edge. Said differently, the FEED fenders have a very defined wheel arc that is showing up on most new vehicles. This is very different from the factory FD design that is "rolled" out to the edge. Just trying to understand which this is.
Thanks
10-19-12, 01:28 PM
#6
Very tempted to pull the trigger.. wondering what size wheel spacers i'll need to use running a 265 on a 11" wheel... Don't want it to look sunken at all...just sitting perfectly flush..
18x12 +12 with the wrong tires on there. these are 245's.. i'll be running 265's.
and 18x11 +15 with 265's
and not to jumble your thread....but rotary **** pic just because =-)
18x12 +12 with the wrong tires on there. these are 245's.. i'll be running 265's.
and 18x11 +15 with 265's
and not to jumble your thread....but rotary **** pic just because =-)
10-19-12, 03:36 PM
#7
Very tempted to pull the trigger.. wondering what size wheel spacers i'll need to use running a 265 on a 11" wheel... Don't want it to look sunken at all...just sitting perfectly flush..
18x12 +12 with the wrong tires on there. these are 245's.. i'll be running 265's.
and 18x11 +15 with 265's
18x12 +12 with the wrong tires on there. these are 245's.. i'll be running 265's.
and 18x11 +15 with 265's
Here are some notes on fitment Joel made up for another customer:
Originally Posted by frijolee
Here's a few data points on wheelsets for you...
Here's what Mike gave me about his:
11.5" wide fronts with 7.5" backspace which works out to 1.25" offset or about 32mm tires are 315/30r18.
and 12" rears with 7.5" backspace (25mm offset) tires are 335/30r18 these would need about a 20-25mm spacer to sit as flush as the fronts
So ideal would likely be close to 6.5" backspace or 0 offset for the rears
Another customer (Brent Dalton, an all out track destroyer) runs this with our front
fenders:
11in CCW's with a backspace of 7.5(that's a 38.1 offset) with 315 hoosiers on the Ronin front fenders with -2.4 degrees of camber
Given my own experience with widebodies, I think Mike's front's may rub a bit on full compression and I wouldn't go quite as aggressive as his "ideal" above in the back. I found on my FC the point of minimum clearance was actually at the 10 and 2 o clock positions on the fender lip so I had to keep things in board just little bit to maximize function. Still, I wanted to give you the actuals so you could check out the pictures, do the math, and judge for yourself.
I really like the 315/335 split with 30 section tires on 18" wheel. While you can fit 345s in back tire selection goes way down and price goes way up. While you can go 19s you need to start watching tire diameters as well as width.
For an all out performance setup I'd recommend:
315/30r18s on a 18x11, 7.5" backspace front (brent's setup)
335/30r18s on a 18x12, 7" backspace rear (0.5" more flush than Mike)
For a pretty aggressive stance that could sacrifice some performance I'd recommend
315/30r18s on a 18x11.5, 7.5" backspace front (Mike's setup)
335/30r18s on a 18x12.5, 7" backspace rear (0.5" more flush than Mike with 0.25" more sidewall stretch per side than Mike)
Here's what Mike gave me about his:
11.5" wide fronts with 7.5" backspace which works out to 1.25" offset or about 32mm tires are 315/30r18.
and 12" rears with 7.5" backspace (25mm offset) tires are 335/30r18 these would need about a 20-25mm spacer to sit as flush as the fronts
So ideal would likely be close to 6.5" backspace or 0 offset for the rears
Another customer (Brent Dalton, an all out track destroyer) runs this with our front
fenders:
11in CCW's with a backspace of 7.5(that's a 38.1 offset) with 315 hoosiers on the Ronin front fenders with -2.4 degrees of camber
Given my own experience with widebodies, I think Mike's front's may rub a bit on full compression and I wouldn't go quite as aggressive as his "ideal" above in the back. I found on my FC the point of minimum clearance was actually at the 10 and 2 o clock positions on the fender lip so I had to keep things in board just little bit to maximize function. Still, I wanted to give you the actuals so you could check out the pictures, do the math, and judge for yourself.
I really like the 315/335 split with 30 section tires on 18" wheel. While you can fit 345s in back tire selection goes way down and price goes way up. While you can go 19s you need to start watching tire diameters as well as width.
For an all out performance setup I'd recommend:
315/30r18s on a 18x11, 7.5" backspace front (brent's setup)
335/30r18s on a 18x12, 7" backspace rear (0.5" more flush than Mike)
For a pretty aggressive stance that could sacrifice some performance I'd recommend
315/30r18s on a 18x11.5, 7.5" backspace front (Mike's setup)
335/30r18s on a 18x12.5, 7" backspace rear (0.5" more flush than Mike with 0.25" more sidewall stretch per side than Mike)
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10-19-12, 05:36 PM
#9
So for 12" wide rear wheels you would want right about 6.5 inch backspacing to be flush, or zero offset. My wheels are +25 and I measure about 20-25mm wheel spacer to be flush.
01-23-13, 03:12 PM
#14
the implications matter
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BTW... That's some good looking rotary ****. We appreciate all engines making big power.
They are. You can order through our website whenever you're ready. Most of our big composites goods are build to order but this one we've been trying to keep stock on hand for. If we're out of stock we'll at least have an order placed so it should only be a few weeks.
-Joel
(for Ronin Speedworks)
01-25-13, 01:03 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
Shoot us a line at roninspeedworks@gmail.com if you'd like to chat details.
01-26-13, 12:23 PM
#17
Im in texas now, I should be in cali on wednesday, id like to take it home in my truck, but i was wondering if you have more of the full style rears because i bought a car that got hailed on.
01-29-13, 02:44 PM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Were you just looking for the rears? We have those in stock. Fronts we are hoping to have in hand tomorrow.
