What to do with a race first gen?????
11-02-11, 08:49 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
What to do with a race first gen?????
I am doing some 24-hour road races and my engine is toast. Over 25 quarts of oil in 10 hours of racing. Yea, it was smoking a lot. Funny thing is we turned our fastest lap of the weekend in the last 3 hours of the race so the engine was still pulling good, just lots of smoke. We are running the stock 12a with racing beat everything and a race prepped carb.
The engine is now toast, the back up 12a is going in and I have some options for things to do for another back up engine. More high mileage 12a’s, rebuild and race port it, 12a Turbo, or 13b. I am looking for the reliability of the rotary, consideration on costs and a little more power. We are trying to keep it simple and go with the carb rather then get into fuel injection. I am trying to do the work myself to keep the costs down. There are almost no rules except price and I am looking for reliability over everything.
My thoughts:
High mileage 12a motors used $400
Rebuild and port the 12a I am pulling out $800
12a turbo on the backup engine I have (Turbo parts, time installing, and manifold) ?
13b used $900 or more
Are any of you road racing with anything like this in the first Gen and how is it working out?
Kyle
The engine is now toast, the back up 12a is going in and I have some options for things to do for another back up engine. More high mileage 12a’s, rebuild and race port it, 12a Turbo, or 13b. I am looking for the reliability of the rotary, consideration on costs and a little more power. We are trying to keep it simple and go with the carb rather then get into fuel injection. I am trying to do the work myself to keep the costs down. There are almost no rules except price and I am looking for reliability over everything.
My thoughts:
High mileage 12a motors used $400
Rebuild and port the 12a I am pulling out $800
12a turbo on the backup engine I have (Turbo parts, time installing, and manifold) ?
13b used $900 or more
Are any of you road racing with anything like this in the first Gen and how is it working out?
Kyle
11-07-11, 04:04 PM
#2
Lives on the Forum
I don't road race, but I do autocross. I have a wife and three kids, so a tight budget goes without saying. Here's my theory on replacement motors:
1. Check out old used motors.
2. If it turns over, and sounds like it has good compression, buy it.
3. If it ends up having blown coolant seals (white smoke from exhaust) dump a bottle of Alumaseal in. (done this, works like a charm on 12a motors, 35,000 miles on last subject and still going strong)
4. If it burns oil due to worn oil control rings, run anywhere from 1 - 2 quarts of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. (did this with my last motor. Smoking too bad to drive, other drivers couldn't see the road. Added Lucas, 95% of problem gone, got another 20k miles out of it before tossing an apex seal at 213,000 miles).
I know that many will scoff at this. I've been told so many times "the only way to fix that is to rebuild it", and "that's nothing but a band-aid fix at best". That's okay though, I'll just keep winning races with my "blown" motors. lol. Anyway, I understand trying to stay within a budget. Best of luck.
.
1. Check out old used motors.
2. If it turns over, and sounds like it has good compression, buy it.
3. If it ends up having blown coolant seals (white smoke from exhaust) dump a bottle of Alumaseal in. (done this, works like a charm on 12a motors, 35,000 miles on last subject and still going strong)
4. If it burns oil due to worn oil control rings, run anywhere from 1 - 2 quarts of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. (did this with my last motor. Smoking too bad to drive, other drivers couldn't see the road. Added Lucas, 95% of problem gone, got another 20k miles out of it before tossing an apex seal at 213,000 miles).
I know that many will scoff at this. I've been told so many times "the only way to fix that is to rebuild it", and "that's nothing but a band-aid fix at best". That's okay though, I'll just keep winning races with my "blown" motors. lol. Anyway, I understand trying to stay within a budget. Best of luck.
.
11-07-11, 10:49 PM
#3
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12a parts are hard to find worth much.when you take your motor apart usually the 12a housings looks bad most of the crome is flaking bad.
anyways we run a second gen and first gen in chumpcar.we went 13b in the first gen because you can find alot more parts for the motor and trust me you will go thru motor stuff alot and only use 90-91 13b engine plates they are 10 times better than the s4 stuff.if you want more tips just contact me i build motors for chumpcar teams alot.and dont port it if you go 13b you wont need to and you will be replacing engine plates about every 4-5 races with these used motors from cracked waterjackets from high revving
anyways we run a second gen and first gen in chumpcar.we went 13b in the first gen because you can find alot more parts for the motor and trust me you will go thru motor stuff alot and only use 90-91 13b engine plates they are 10 times better than the s4 stuff.if you want more tips just contact me i build motors for chumpcar teams alot.and dont port it if you go 13b you wont need to and you will be replacing engine plates about every 4-5 races with these used motors from cracked waterjackets from high revving
11-11-11, 09:54 AM
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the info. We got about 6-7 races 24hour style weekends out of the engine before having any problems.
coolcars44, Did you go with a GSL-SE 13b or did you go wit the second gen 13b? From reading the forum it looks like i need to find a front cross member, 13b header, front cover plate, and maybe oil pan to do the swap. Is that correct? What about rejetting the carb for the 13b?
coolcars44, Did you go with a GSL-SE 13b or did you go wit the second gen 13b? From reading the forum it looks like i need to find a front cross member, 13b header, front cover plate, and maybe oil pan to do the swap. Is that correct? What about rejetting the carb for the 13b?
