rceron

Wanted to get some input from those who track their cars, regarding the use of tire trailers. I came across a tire trailer from a company in Florida, which costs about $800 (sorry, the forum isn't let me attach any pics). It seems to be a nice and convenient way of transporting race tires/wheels and other paraphenalia to the track. However, I don't know if this is a reasonable cost.

Does anyone know other companies that make them? Any input would be appreciated.

BTW, since I don't have a SUV/truck a car trailer is out of the question.

thanks,

Ramon

DamonB

The ones you speak of are nice, but it can certainly be done cheaper. Myself and many other autocrossers use this trailer from Harbor Freight, just over $200 here

Trailer comes with everything you need except the plywood floor. I built a rack to stow my tires and bolted a large plastic toolbox to it as well. Pics are here

Mine goes all over; pulls great and is lightweight.

Matt22

iTrader: (10)

that looks pretty dope, where does the trailer mount to your car. have any pics of that. lates matt22

rceron

Damon,

Thanks for the links. That seems like a much more palatable solution. Couple of questions:
(1) how did you mount the trailer hitch to the FD
(2) how is the box and tire rods mounted?

If you have more pics please forward.

BTW, the trailer has working rear lights?

thanks again.

DamonB

The hitch on my car is built by U-Haul and designed for the FD. U-Haul does not stock this hitch, they are built on an as needed basis. The tires on my trailer are mounted by a pair of a-frames you see in the pic with a pole that slides through the wheel centers. The tool box is merely bolted to the plywood deck.

The trailer comes with working lights, fender and a license holder. All you need is a hitch on the car and to wire the lights into the car's tail lights. I have cut and pasted from my trailer install post a bunch of info below:

Installing the hitch
This is how I went about installing my U-Haul hitch. I did not have instructions nor the supplied "bolt kit" but with the help of some others' advice it went easily enough. The front of the hitch bolts to two empty holes on the rear subframe with 1/2" bolts about 2.5" long. The rear bolts under the bumper support using 5 fasteners. I used grade 8 bolts, 1/2" in diameter and 1.5" long. The problem is that you have to get 5 bolts inside a tube that you cannot reach inside of; it all has to be done "blind" from the outside. I marked and drilled the five 1/2" holes under the bumper; since the bumper is aluminum it drills quite easily. One hole will have to be enlarged enough so you can pass an entire bolt through it to get it inside the bumper. Then you have to "fish" the bolts to drop into each of their holes. I started off by making the center hole into the shape of a keyhole after I had drilled it. The small end is where the bolt would end up but the fat end was large enough to pass the bolt head with a washer up into the bumper. Now the tricky part; fishing. I made a simple hook out of a coat hanger by bending about an inch of the end into a "u" shape. I took a bolt and placed a washer on it and placed it through the "keyhole" with the threads sticking out the hole. I then placed my hook around it and squeezed it just tight enough with a pair of pliers that the wire grips the threads of the bolt and sort of snaps on. Do not completely encircle the bolt with the wire, just snap it on. I could then very easily lift the bolt completely through the hole and push it along to drop into its proper mounting position. After dropping the bolt through I could unsnap my hook from the bolt by pushing on it firmly. Again, the whole trick was to not twist the wire completely around the bolt so that you are able to do this. Once I had the holes and keyhole made, it took all of 5 minutes to fish the bolts in. I couldn't believe how easily it went. Now, how the heck do you tighten the bolts when you cant reach the heads to keep them from spinning? I don't know for sure but I bet the proper U-Haul bolts have some sort of nibs in their undersides to make them grip the bumper and keep from turning. I had plain bolts and even washers inside so they would turn when you tried to tighten them. That is why I bought 1.5" long bolts. Once you get the nuts as tight as you can and the bolt begins to turn, you can grab the exposed portion of the bolt with a small pipe wrench or a pair of vise grips and hold it while tightening the nut with a wrench. Again, not too bad.

The hitch does not interfere in any way with the exhaust or suspension.

U-Haul does not stock the hitch, they make them one at a time and send them to you; at least that is what mine told me. The U-Haul part number is #24930 for the hitch and #3592 for the drawbar.

rceron

DamonB, do you have any additional pics of how the uhual hitch is connected to the underside of the car?

Thanks for the info. Just place my order.

Ramon

DamonB

I don't have pics of the hitch itself; no. Picture a "T" about 3 feet long. The crossbar of the "T" bolts to the chassis right behind the differential with holes that are already there. The bottom of the "T" has a flange that bolts to holes in the underside of the metal bumper tube which you must drill. Install is not difficult but U-Haul will install it for next to nothing so I would let them do it. I bought my hitch used and none of the U-Haul places would install it since I didn't have the original bolts so I bought some and did it myself.

When installed the only thing visible is the receiver (the thingy where the hitch actually slides in) which hangs just below the rear bumper skirt about 2". Very few people ever even notice mine.

Silkworm

The F-body guys I hang with use the Harbor freight trailer.

PaulC

DaveB

Ramon,

A friend Here in Cincinnati is selling his trailer. It has the tire rack and an aluminum diamond plate box. You can email him at njf620@aol.com if you wish. He used it behind his FD for track events.

db