Is there a thread on how to strip an FC for racing???
#4
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As insightful as ever reted. Atleast Travis put a smiley face on his.
blackbirdzach - What class or type of racing to you want to do? autocross, road racing, drag........... I'm assuming autocross and track events listed on your profile. If autocross, what class do you want to run?
blackbirdzach - What class or type of racing to you want to do? autocross, road racing, drag........... I'm assuming autocross and track events listed on your profile. If autocross, what class do you want to run?
#5
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For a serious Road race build I did the following:
-3 days of stripping the car down to a bare shell ( by bare I mean no two bolts were still together)
-A trip to the Acid tank for a double dip (Cost about $700). The acid strip takes the car to bare metal and offers a really good chance to see exactly what you have. Any body damage will be very obvious.
-3 Days of seam welding. This isn't really required, but if you want the stiffest car you can get I'd reccomend it.
-3 Days of Roll cage fabrication. The design and material of the roll cage depends on the sanctioning body you plan on racing in, but three days with two people, a tubing bender and a mig welder should do the trick.
-XX days of reassembly. I'm still in this part, so I'd budget at least 10-15 working days to reassemble the car. The less custom work you do at this point the faster the assembly will go.
- At least one day of testing / tuning before you go to an event
-At least one evening following the test day to re-check every fastener on the car.
Hope this helps,
-Trent
-3 days of stripping the car down to a bare shell ( by bare I mean no two bolts were still together)
-A trip to the Acid tank for a double dip (Cost about $700). The acid strip takes the car to bare metal and offers a really good chance to see exactly what you have. Any body damage will be very obvious.
-3 Days of seam welding. This isn't really required, but if you want the stiffest car you can get I'd reccomend it.
-3 Days of Roll cage fabrication. The design and material of the roll cage depends on the sanctioning body you plan on racing in, but three days with two people, a tubing bender and a mig welder should do the trick.
-XX days of reassembly. I'm still in this part, so I'd budget at least 10-15 working days to reassemble the car. The less custom work you do at this point the faster the assembly will go.
- At least one day of testing / tuning before you go to an event
-At least one evening following the test day to re-check every fastener on the car.
Hope this helps,
-Trent
Last edited by TrentO; 07-12-04 at 03:09 PM.
#6
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by MPM
As insightful as ever reted. Atleast Travis put a smiley face on his.
blackbirdzach - What class or type of racing to you want to do? autocross, road racing, drag........... I'm assuming autocross and track events listed on your profile. If autocross, what class do you want to run?
As insightful as ever reted. Atleast Travis put a smiley face on his.
blackbirdzach - What class or type of racing to you want to do? autocross, road racing, drag........... I'm assuming autocross and track events listed on your profile. If autocross, what class do you want to run?
I'm assuming the person is a typical owner who does not know that much about their cars.
There is a right way and a wrong way to do lightening, and doing it the wrong way can kill you on the street or on the track.
-Ted
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#8
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Well, my biggest conern is how to get the sound material out from under the carpet! And I also want to remove the door panels and take out the power window regs, and replace them with manuals. I don't want any electrics in the doors.
I've got most of the A/C already out and the carpets are almost done....still gotta remove the pass seat. I just haven't really had time to do it all.
The car will mostly be autocrossed with a couple of track days a year. But I'll also be driving it back and forth to work on occasion.
Oh, and any of you ever removed your headliner? I've got to do that to remove the sunroof. (Frozen up)
Thanks,
BBZ
I've got most of the A/C already out and the carpets are almost done....still gotta remove the pass seat. I just haven't really had time to do it all.
The car will mostly be autocrossed with a couple of track days a year. But I'll also be driving it back and forth to work on occasion.
Oh, and any of you ever removed your headliner? I've got to do that to remove the sunroof. (Frozen up)
Thanks,
BBZ
#9
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Do you have a rule book? If you go stripping stuff it will move you into a class step up. This next class may allow modifications that could leave you non competitive.
The Sound material is removed with Dry Ice. You can buy it at publix. Sit it on a spot. Let it sit for a few minutes, move it to the next spot. Start hitting the first spot with a rubber hammer and 1" or so wide chisel or scraper.You can wipe the surfaces down with Acetone or paint thinner to get it ready for paint.
-billy
The Sound material is removed with Dry Ice. You can buy it at publix. Sit it on a spot. Let it sit for a few minutes, move it to the next spot. Start hitting the first spot with a rubber hammer and 1" or so wide chisel or scraper.You can wipe the surfaces down with Acetone or paint thinner to get it ready for paint.
-billy
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Originally posted by bwaits
Do you have a rule book? If you go stripping stuff it will move you into a class step up. This next class may allow modifications that could leave you non competitive.
The Sound material is removed with Dry Ice. You can buy it at publix. Sit it on a spot. Let it sit for a few minutes, move it to the next spot. Start hitting the first spot with a rubber hammer and 1" or so wide chisel or scraper.You can wipe the surfaces down with Acetone or paint thinner to get it ready for paint.
-billy
Do you have a rule book? If you go stripping stuff it will move you into a class step up. This next class may allow modifications that could leave you non competitive.
The Sound material is removed with Dry Ice. You can buy it at publix. Sit it on a spot. Let it sit for a few minutes, move it to the next spot. Start hitting the first spot with a rubber hammer and 1" or so wide chisel or scraper.You can wipe the surfaces down with Acetone or paint thinner to get it ready for paint.
-billy
BBZ
#12
I'll blow it up real good
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Originally posted by Travis R
I used an air chisel on a cold winter day.
I used an air chisel on a cold winter day.
Last edited by RX-Heven; 07-13-04 at 02:56 PM.
#13
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Originally posted by RX-Heven
By far the easiest and quickest way to do this. But considering it's the middle of summer, dry ice is the next best thing. Be careful with the air chisel though or you can go right through the floor. Some 'huffers' use diesel fuel to soften it up and scrape it out....yuck.
By far the easiest and quickest way to do this. But considering it's the middle of summer, dry ice is the next best thing. Be careful with the air chisel though or you can go right through the floor. Some 'huffers' use diesel fuel to soften it up and scrape it out....yuck.
#14
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i have never tried the dry ice thing, we used a torch and a scraper. it worked really well...... with the exception of the smell!
i also took the car down to bare frame, it think this is the best way to start a major tack car project.
take a look at my web site if you want to see some of the building process.
http://groups.msn.com/ROTORLUTIONRacing
i also took the car down to bare frame, it think this is the best way to start a major tack car project.
take a look at my web site if you want to see some of the building process.
http://groups.msn.com/ROTORLUTIONRacing
#15
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Here is a thread with questions on lightening a Vert.. many will apply to you.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=lightening
Kinda just need to decide how far you wanna go
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=lightening
Kinda just need to decide how far you wanna go
#16
Old Rotary Dog
You can also follow Crispy's exploits in building his FC racecar.
http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/fc/fcpart1.htm
-bill
http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/fc/fcpart1.htm
-bill
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