Stoptech Brakes Quick Question? and Small General Brake Question.
#1
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: MIA
Posts: 3,639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stoptech Brakes Quick Question? and Small General Brake Question.
My friend has a lightly modded WRX maybe pushing 250 to the wheels. He bought a stoptect brake kit. He has gone to 3 events in the last 3 months (one each month) TRACK EVENTS. Sebring Twice and Homestead once. After this last sebring event he just cracked his 3rd set of rotors! So far Stoptech has been replacing them but I think these are his last set they will cover. Thus an sugggestions on how to stop this? I suggested he Cryo the rotors, for 50$ a pair its worth it even if it doesnt work no? Finally will the FD rotors hold up to Track conditions?
#2
Has been.. hangin' around
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Milpitas, CA
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What's his cooldown procedure? Is he sitting the ebrake? is he moving the car around after he returns to his paddock area?
Is he running any kind of brake ducting?
PaulC
Is he running any kind of brake ducting?
PaulC
#3
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
I know this is probably a dumb question, but he's not running "cross-drilled" rotors, is he? On second thought, probably not, because Stoptech wouldn't be constantly replacing them if he was...
#4
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: MIA
Posts: 3,639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Kento
I know this is probably a dumb question, but he's not running "cross-drilled" rotors, is he? On second thought, probably not, because Stoptech wouldn't be constantly replacing them if he was...
I know this is probably a dumb question, but he's not running "cross-drilled" rotors, is he? On second thought, probably not, because Stoptech wouldn't be constantly replacing them if he was...
His cool down procedure is one lap uber slow not hitting the brake once. He has all the stock ducting.
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: North Hollywood, Ca USA
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you will need to do some more research. what temps are the rotors reaching? what brake pads? what type of brake cooling(stock or additional cooling ducts)? type and size of brake rotors and calipers? I would start with some heat paint. this will give you an idea of the temps reached on the calipers and rotors. then adding some cooling ducts and maybe a switch in pad material. as you can see running a car on a race track can cause all types of problems even with a " big brake kit".
#6
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: MIA
Posts: 3,639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by tims
you will need to do some more research. what temps are the rotors reaching? what brake pads? what type of brake cooling(stock or additional cooling ducts)? type and size of brake rotors and calipers? I would start with some heat paint. this will give you an idea of the temps reached on the calipers and rotors. then adding some cooling ducts and maybe a switch in pad material. as you can see running a car on a race track can cause all types of problems even with a " big brake kit".
you will need to do some more research. what temps are the rotors reaching? what brake pads? what type of brake cooling(stock or additional cooling ducts)? type and size of brake rotors and calipers? I would start with some heat paint. this will give you an idea of the temps reached on the calipers and rotors. then adding some cooling ducts and maybe a switch in pad material. as you can see running a car on a race track can cause all types of problems even with a " big brake kit".
Trending Topics
#8
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: MIA
Posts: 3,639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Silkworm
Well, the first mistake is slotted rotors. Have him switch to a non slotted, non drilled rotor and see if the issue continues.
Well, the first mistake is slotted rotors. Have him switch to a non slotted, non drilled rotor and see if the issue continues.
#9
Lives on the Forum
The StopTech may not be crap but that doesn't mean you can't still exceed the thermal capacity of the system.
You can fade the brakes through overheating the fluid, overheating the pads or overheating the rotors. Since the rotors are falling into pieces they are obviously too hot. That car with those brakes is still under-braked for that given track.
"StopTech" or any other named stamped on a component does not make it a silver bullet that solves all problems. Racers wish it were always that easy
You can fade the brakes through overheating the fluid, overheating the pads or overheating the rotors. Since the rotors are falling into pieces they are obviously too hot. That car with those brakes is still under-braked for that given track.
"StopTech" or any other named stamped on a component does not make it a silver bullet that solves all problems. Racers wish it were always that easy
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: North Hollywood, Ca USA
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Damon is on to what is likely the problem. just because companies are involved in racing doesn't mean everything they sell is made for the severe duty of race tracks. Stoptech is a very well respected company. I have not used them before, but they have many supporters. "bolt on" kits are not the end of the line when it comes to research and developement. it may be a switch in brake pads is all that is needed, maybe better cooling, but more info is needed to make an educated change. maybe a slightly thicker/heavier rotor would be more durable. maybe the racing life of these rotors is 8-10 hours of race time(not out of the realm of possibility). racers and race car owners know that parts on race cars last only a matter of hours at times. do some more testing and check with the Stoptech guys to give them some feedback. it sounds like they are willing to help, so take advantage of their knowledge.
#12
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: MIA
Posts: 3,639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by artowar
Fatman0203: Why doesn't your buddy post here directly?
Fatman0203: Why doesn't your buddy post here directly?
Good points on everyones part. I guess we'll try ducting and hope for the best. BTW just because they crack doesnt mean they fade. THEY NEVER FADE, even after getting cracked they dont fade what so ever. He is running Motul DOT 4 fluid with very good pads (not sure what type)
#13
post some pics. This is an interesting problem. I know that everyone gets the little stress cracks on the drilled stoptech rotors but having them crack is an entirely different matter. Everyone i know who has the kit loves it and hasn't had any real problems.
#15
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: MIA
Posts: 3,639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by artowar
Pics would be interesting. Can you get & post some pics of the cracked rotors?
Pics would be interesting. Can you get & post some pics of the cracked rotors?
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My $0.02 would be the ducting as well. I currently destroy 2 sets of stock 1st gen rotors a year. With adequate ducting the wear to the rotors diminished greatly. Previous to pumping more air through the pads would wear much faster as would the rotors. In the end, Brake parts wear quickly under extreme use and the cooler you can keep the setup the better.
-Trent
-Trent
#17
All out Track Freak!
iTrader: (263)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Charlottesville VA 22901
Posts: 10,672
Received 412 Likes
on
250 Posts
Its very important to break in the rotors just like the pad. Do some quick stops from say 50 or so maybe 3 or 4. Let the rotor cool then do some from 60 maybe 3 or 4 then let them cool, finally some from 70 and let them cool fully each time. I crack rotors usually after 2 or 3 events then use the cracked ones for another couple events until a crack bleeds to the edge. If you use a some discipline and control your straight away speeds the entire braking system will really benefit from a few easy passes down the straight.
#18
Has been.. hangin' around
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Milpitas, CA
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ducting will help with longevity, but I still say the slotted rotors are exacerbating the issue. I don't know how to explain the metallurgical issues with cutting slots into rotor faces and how that will lead to cracking, but I do know that you are
- removing the amount of metal available for absorbtion of heat energy
- essentially planing off very small brake pad surface area due to the edge of the slot passing over the pad area.
- You've got uneven heating over the surface of the rotor
All IMHO of course, I'm not a brake expert.
PaulC
- removing the amount of metal available for absorbtion of heat energy
- essentially planing off very small brake pad surface area due to the edge of the slot passing over the pad area.
- You've got uneven heating over the surface of the rotor
All IMHO of course, I'm not a brake expert.
PaulC
#19
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: MIA
Posts: 3,639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Fritz Flynn
Its very important to break in the rotors just like the pad. Do some quick stops from say 50 or so maybe 3 or 4. Let the rotor cool then do some from 60 maybe 3 or 4 then let them cool, finally some from 70 and let them cool fully each time. I crack rotors usually after 2 or 3 events then use the cracked ones for another couple events until a crack bleeds to the edge. If you use a some discipline and control your straight away speeds the entire braking system will really benefit from a few easy passes down the straight.
Its very important to break in the rotors just like the pad. Do some quick stops from say 50 or so maybe 3 or 4. Let the rotor cool then do some from 60 maybe 3 or 4 then let them cool, finally some from 70 and let them cool fully each time. I crack rotors usually after 2 or 3 events then use the cracked ones for another couple events until a crack bleeds to the edge. If you use a some discipline and control your straight away speeds the entire braking system will really benefit from a few easy passes down the straight.
#20
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (9)
Well, there's nothing magic about most anyone's big brake rotors. They are just iron rotors of a given size. They'll ALL crack. If your friend cracked Stop-Techs, then he would likely have cracked most anyone elses of the same size/mass. It isn't necessarily Stop Tech's fault, its a simple function of too much heat. He likely needs to get some real, dedicated brake ducting, or use a different pad, or some combination.
#22
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: MIA
Posts: 3,639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by skunks
how do the stock brake ducts for a wrx look like? did you happen to have any pics?
how do the stock brake ducts for a wrx look like? did you happen to have any pics?
*slaps self on head* yet I can tell you more information. He does have ducting or to be more precise he has nothing infront of the rotors their getting direct air from the front. 2nd he says its because he trail brakes? Braking during the turn causing some bearings to move sideways and causing the rotor to flex? Is this true? Finally one rotor has stress cracks the other has CRACKS from where the bolts (inside allen wrench ones) were and spread out from there.
#23
I'm a CF and poop smith
Originally posted by Fatman0203
Ok I forgot to take pics, since I forgot my camera
*slaps self on head* yet I can tell you more information. He does have ducting or to be more precise he has nothing infront of the rotors their getting direct air from the front. 2nd he says its because he trail brakes? Braking during the turn causing some bearings to move sideways and causing the rotor to flex? Is this true? Finally one rotor has stress cracks the other has CRACKS from where the bolts (inside allen wrench ones) were and spread out from there.
Ok I forgot to take pics, since I forgot my camera
*slaps self on head* yet I can tell you more information. He does have ducting or to be more precise he has nothing infront of the rotors their getting direct air from the front. 2nd he says its because he trail brakes? Braking during the turn causing some bearings to move sideways and causing the rotor to flex? Is this true? Finally one rotor has stress cracks the other has CRACKS from where the bolts (inside allen wrench ones) were and spread out from there.
#24
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: MIA
Posts: 3,639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by skunks
im confused, do you mean he does not have any brake sheilds at all/he took them off?
im confused, do you mean he does not have any brake sheilds at all/he took them off?
#25
I'm a CF and poop smith
Originally posted by Fatman0203
Im not sure what you mean by shields? The whole fenderwell inside thing ya he took that out. He just got his 4rth set of rotors (no stoptech did not replace these) yet their giving him a nice discount and he is sending in his cracked set so they can check them out. He is going to try ducting the brakes. The pads he is using are tough but not the hardest ones.
Im not sure what you mean by shields? The whole fenderwell inside thing ya he took that out. He just got his 4rth set of rotors (no stoptech did not replace these) yet their giving him a nice discount and he is sending in his cracked set so they can check them out. He is going to try ducting the brakes. The pads he is using are tough but not the hardest ones.