SDJ motorsports sells an adjustable watts link for 1st gen rx7's.

Does anyone have experience with this part? How well does it work? How complicated is the install? Does it bolt in or weld in?

Thanks,
Neil

 

Who are these SDJ guys???
I just had a guy ask me if he could spin his motor to 9kRPM - when asked about exhaust, he said he's running a collected SDJ unit - they claimed their "large streetport" with this header made 260hp on the engine dyno...


-Ted

 

Nevermind...I did a search...
http://www.sdjmotorsports.com/
Those headers look nasty...


-Ted

 

Neil. ever thought of going panhard rod and tri-link?

 

Yeah, I am considering trilink, but this is for my street/track car, and talking to Susko, this set up may be a little noisy for the street. I also have heard of the unibody metal tearing apart under stress from the new link.

So, I was looking for any other options. The SDJ part lowers the rear roll center, but I don't think it addresses the binding in the rear suspension.

But some people prefer just a panhard bar with the stock control links.

Just looking for someone who's used the SDJ setup to learn the pro's and cons.

 

http://www.sdjmotorsports.com/synergynoil.htm

"...SDJ is proud to offer you this non-synthetic quality oil at competitive prices"

What is a non-synthetic quality oil??? I've never heard of this type of "marketing".

 

Yea I ran the trilink and panhard on the street for a while, bad idea. It wont tear out if its installed properly.

I think any panhard will be too noisy. I have a solution thats a kinda compromise to reduce the binding. I been running it on my streetcar for a while.

 

Funy enough I was going to ask about that particular SDJ product. I'm interested to hear more feedback. How big is the danger of tearing the unibody running the Panhard and Tri-Link on the street? Or is that for people who ignore the clearly stated need to weld-in reinforcement gussets/plates?

Carl, did you notice a signifigant improvement with the Panhard only setup? I'm not overly concerned with noise as the stripped interior and loud exhaust has yet to bother me. I seem to remember someone curing the excessive squeakyness of the Panhard by tying inner tubes around part of the bar.

Edit: Think I mis-interpreted Carl here. You're running the nylock setup aren't you? Care to share how someone would go about setting that up

 

His old design panhard (which is what I have) was a strict bolt in affair. He switched to a partial weld in after people incorrectly installed it and had the problems of the mounts ripping out. Dont think the trilink design has changed.

I did the panhard at the same time as my trilink so I cant say which is the more significant improvement. But I will say that it rocks! Jim Susko is teh ****. Yes I ve heard of people using rubber to quiet down the rod end clanking. But on the racecar I cant hear it except when driving thru the paddock.

I have the nylock setup on my streetcar, and the full Gforce setup on the racecar. I plan on doing a writeup on the nylock thing. Pics are done, just need time to write it and all.

 

Nice, look forward to reading it Carl.

I'll probably do the nylock until I can afford the Panhard/Tri-Link setup. It's my goal every year to make my car less 'streetable' to the average person. If passengers want to complain they can walk.

 

Ummm, bump?

That weird my post didn't take the thread to the top, and still listed Carl as the last poster. Hmmm, the site is telling me to make a donation, I can feel it.

 

:lurk:

want more info on this "streetable" nylock setup... This is new to me?

 

Ugh, alright Ill write it up tomorrow or Sat and post it ok?

 

Writeup is done, just gotta type it out and have the wife add all the pics and format it and upload it. Maybe tonight.

 

Yesss. Thank you Carl.

 

Finally got it done.

www.pbandjracing.com look under tech articles (its the only one so far) for you guys. enjoy and pleas give me feedback on it.

 

The website is down Carl but I look forward to reading the article.

 

680rwhp12a has a set of adjustable watts linkage on a rediculously lowered car.

i was going to get a set.

talk to him

 

IS it still down? I can get to it fine. But had some trouble last night. Damn Yahoo!!!!

 

worked for me this morning....

 

Any comments? suggestions?

 

Looks great Carl, thank you.

One thing I'm confused on, but I've got the flu so this might be really obvious. Is the idea to turn to bolt around so that the Nylock nut sits on the weld tab?

Now I haven't played with my rear suspension since May, so I may have it backwards in my head, but I thought the bolt head was on the tab. Anyways, as soon as it stops raining here I'm definately going to give this a shot.

Thanks again.

 

No, you want the bolt head against the lock tab so it doesnt rotate. The bolt MUST not be allowed to rotate.

 

I think they mean the oil is both "non-synthetic" and a "quality" oil.

 

Great looking writeup Carl.

Got a question. Do you feel this frees up the rear suspension enough so you need the rear swaybar?