S-AFC Durability
#1
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
S-AFC Durability
I race an 88 N/A with standard bolt on stuff. Car is prepared similar to World Challenge style (lexan, stripped interior, aero etc...) vs ITS. At present I can get the thing down to a mid pack World Challenge time at Mosport (4 seconds slower than Kleinubings times), however the series I run in I am competing against some cars that presently race in the Speed Touring class and I need to go faster to compete.
I know that I S-AFC will help fine tune fuel mixture and improve driveability and power but is it durable enough to operate as a piggyback in a racing environment. Motor and transmission solidly mounted and cockpit temperatures have exceeded 120 F and race lengths are up to 2 hours.
I have little experience with piggybacks, but I do understand standalones. Would prefer to go to a standalone, but my budget isn't unlimited.
I know that I S-AFC will help fine tune fuel mixture and improve driveability and power but is it durable enough to operate as a piggyback in a racing environment. Motor and transmission solidly mounted and cockpit temperatures have exceeded 120 F and race lengths are up to 2 hours.
I have little experience with piggybacks, but I do understand standalones. Would prefer to go to a standalone, but my budget isn't unlimited.
#4
Former Rx7 *****
Join Date: Nov 2001
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i've had my safc installed in my streetcar for 1/2 a year now.
I would say i log more hours then you on the street then you in your race car.
It is an electronic device, i do not see it failing. The only way it would fail are either:
a.) unit is subjected to excess heat
b.) You short it out.
A and B are easily fixed if you mount the unit far away from the transmission tunnel, and b.) by soldering all leads and using heat shrink, and high temp wire harness wrap.
The wiring are all inside the cabin and none of is in the engine bay or exposed to teh outside track enviroment.
I would say i log more hours then you on the street then you in your race car.
It is an electronic device, i do not see it failing. The only way it would fail are either:
a.) unit is subjected to excess heat
b.) You short it out.
A and B are easily fixed if you mount the unit far away from the transmission tunnel, and b.) by soldering all leads and using heat shrink, and high temp wire harness wrap.
The wiring are all inside the cabin and none of is in the engine bay or exposed to teh outside track enviroment.
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