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yeah, all you need to do is wire directly off the battery to an on/off switch then to the fan high speed circuit, place a 30a fuse near the battery. run the ground wire somewhere near the fan that is a solid grounding point.
is it that easy to wire up thermos??
when its wired up directly to the battery wont it cause the battery to go fat, or wont it use power when the switch is off.
iv also read around some people say the proper way is to wire to the battery with a relay and to a ignition wire but I don't like the idea of messing up loom and have wires catch fire.
is it that easy to wire up thermos??
when its wired up directly to the battery wont it cause the battery to go fat, or wont it use power when the switch is off.
iv also read around some people say the proper way is to wire to the battery with a relay and to a ignition wire but I don't like the idea of messing up loom and have wires catch fire.
his is a racecar, he will have a switch on a panel right next to the driver to manually turn the fan on and off, directly to the battery eliminates possible failure points. will the battery go flat? sure, if he leaves the fan on for an hour while he eats a sammich and forgets about it.
relays work fine, if you know how to utilize them and where to get the source power from, in the case of these fans, generic relays won't quite cut it.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-13-15 at 10:40 PM.
his is a racecar, he will have a switch on a panel right next to the driver to manually turn the fan on and off, directly to the battery eliminates possible failure points. will the battery go flat? sure, if he leaves the fan on for an hour while he eats a sammich and forgets about it.
relays work fine, if you know how to utilize them and where to get the source power from, in the case of these fans, generic relays won't quite cut it.
so would it be fine to wire it the same way for a street car with the only the fuse instead of using a relay with it??
how often do the fans fail or the fuse blow?
iv seen a couple thermo wire ups where fans stop working after a while or wires catch fire inside the car not sure if they used a fuse or not that's probably why the wires caught fire instead of the fuse blowing.
i wouldn't want my car to catch fire that's the only reason why i wouldn't do it, but wouldn't mind installing a gilmer belt drive kit.
all circuits should have a fuse, not sure why that's a question.
how often does what fan fail? ive had 3 flex a lite fans fail, i have not seen anyone complain about the ford fans failing and they are already used for years and years.
fans require a lot of amps, it needs heavy gauge wire, good power source and grounding, heavy duty switches and relays otherwise stuff is going to melt down. usually people who melt fuses or wires are using cheap components or inadequate gauge wiring.
all circuits should have a fuse, not sure why that's a question.
how often does what fan fail? ive had 3 flex a lite fans fail, i have not seen anyone complain about the ford fans failing and they are already used for years and years.
fans require a lot of amps, it needs heavy gauge wire, good power source and grounding, heavy duty switches and relays otherwise stuff is going to melt down. usually people who melt fuses or wires are using cheap components or inadequate gauge wiring.
haven't really messed about with wiring other than speakers that's why I asked.
what gauge wire would you recommend?
so could you just wire it to the battery with fuses and a relay,
then from the relay to the thermo fan and to a on/off switch and ground what has to be ground.
or do you need to wire it to a ignition wire as well?
or is it just not that easy?
generally i just stick with the gauge wiring that the fan uses. in the case of the taurus fan it looks like 10 for ground and high speed, and 12 for low speed. using a thicker wire won't hurt, but using a smaller gauge wire can overload the wire and melt fuses/wiring.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-15-15 at 06:27 AM.
yw, though i don't recommend just a basic switch for a street driven car. no matter what, you'll forget to turn it on randomly and not notice until bad things start to happen.
yep, though mine is a little more complicated. it runs through a thermostatic control box that i ripped out of the flex a lite to control low speed and i used a dual control relay off my FC thermoswitch to turn it on high at 210F.
so you can wire them up to be on all the time.
or you can do similar to what you've done and wire it up with adjustable temperature switches to control when the fans work at high or low speed, if that makes sense.
iv also seen people using adjustable radiator probes to control what temps the fan turns on at.
I used a stock water pump housing from an automatic withthe stock thermostatic switch. It works great, turns my aftermarket fan on at 190 and off at 185. Just wired it with a relay.
I will second the advise already given in this thread. I blew a motor due to lack of cooling early in my development of the car: Here is what I learned.
1. 220 and higher is too hot for water. You should strive to never see much over 200.
2. I've not had any trouble with my 2500 CFM flexalite syclon e-fan. I'm not sure i would use one on a street car tho. It works with just a radiator and no A/C but the stock clutch fan is rated for something north of 3300 CFM to deal with rotary heat, idling, a/c etc. My fan on the racecar rarely needs to run, only when sitting still basically.
3. The Koyo N-flow radiator is FAR superior to any other radiator ive used. Multipass radiators make a huge difference in total heat shedding, and i will never buy anything else again. NOTE: Multi-pass is NOT the same as multi-row. Underdrive pulleys pair very well with multipass radiators...which leads me to...
4. ...You MUST underdrive the water pump with a racing underdrive water pump and main pulley. Your alternator pulley can be stock as long as you idle the car at at least 1000 rpm. The stock water pumps cavitate above 6500rpm or so.
5. Ducting is SUPER important. Make sure there is no obvious path where air can bypass the radiator from the front grille. Also i opened up my stock radiator air intake opening in the bumper and use stainless mesh in a completly vertical arrangement to ensure air does not get pushed under the car. If you add mesh to the stock FC bumper profile it will tend to slant forward and ANY slant to the mesh will push air under the car.
6. I use two stock oil coolers piped in parallel, reverse-return arrangement. My oil temps never top 200 with that setup even in 95deg California or Georgia heat right on the bumper of other cars. Some say oil temps should never top 210, others say 250. I've not experienced a failure due to oil temps but i do notice the cooler i can keep the oil, the cooler i can keep the water.
7. My rule of thumb for my car where i'm measuring oil and water temps at the rear iron is that the dash alarms either if they hit 220. I tell my drivers if they get an alarm to immediately go to a high gear and limp the car to the pits. But, that's never happened after i did 1-6 above.
cooling also relies greatly on ambient temperatures. the same cooling system i ran in the desert summer with no fan on would creep to 220F on the freeway at 80mph in 110F ambient heat in las vegas. in florida on a cool 75F day with little humidity it would run 180F at 50mph.
keep in mind that is virtually no load and no throttle, when you start generating heat you notice that even the air being forced into the radiator from speed might not be enough.
I apologize for the lack of updates. As I am sure you know, being one to frequent a race section, often the most progression happens in the wee few days prior to a race. here it goes.
acquire fan and remove radiator:
1 beer, 2 strips of 5052, 1 Taurus Efan (thanks rx7club), 1 Ron Davis (apparently custom) racing radiator.
first bracket is bent to the profile of the wide plate that retains the radiator.
test fit Note I put a sign under the fan to (successfully) prevent damage to fins
1st mockup of fab'd brackets -1
1st mockup of fab'd brackets -2
1st install
and then we went to the Wolf Chase RallyCross yesterday. The course was great! very fast and challenging. The morning runs went well, i destroyed a couple cones and got terribly lost once. the fan worked wonders! After lunch the car was hard starting, but she fired and i kept her running between runs on the grid. While pulling up to grid with only three runs remaining i stalled and from that moment on the car would not even engage the starter.
Stranded, pushed out of the way at grid. <br/>
I was towed back to the pits by the the STI.
We will be looking into an oddyssey battery relocated to the rear and upgraded alternator. feel free to suggest one! Also thinking of rewiring fan to low circuit to see how well it cools.
Last edited by NorthernForestMotorsports; 12-06-15 at 03:39 PM.
11-13-15, 08:40 PM
