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Re-wiring FB for race track

Old 06-30-13, 04:27 PM
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LA Re-wiring FB for race track

I've got a 1985 FB I've been working on. Mikuni PHH44, no port work, stripped down.

I've traced out what I need, gas hatch, rear hatch, brake lights, and engine system. I've stripped the rest from the car.

My question is regarding what I should replace everything with. Let me give you some slight history.

I bought the car track ready from someone with a butt load of replacement parts (body parts, rear end, door, hood) 3 nikki carbs and the mikuni carb and a lot of other bits and pieces. He ran the nikki because he wanted to run it in a spec rx7 class. I have no such desire. This is just a track day car for now.

As far as I can tell the distribution system (power to the two ign coils and the three 12v on the distributor) are run straight from the back side of the master cutoff on the outside of the car. No fuse. Is this OK for motorsports? Would it be advisable to re-wire it back to a fuse block so it has a fuse in line?

The wire for the starter (that goes to the ignition switch) is also not fused. Should I fuse it?

I have a copy of the FSM. I've sat down with it for a while and at some points my mind boggles. After I figure out the distribution system fuse situation the only thing I need to do is determine the right fuse sizes for:

Brake Lights (15A?)
Fuel Pump (20A I believe... It's a Holley Red)
Instruments (10A, may change to 15A depending on what I add)
Distribution System? (fuse block cover has "Engine" labeled as 20A)
Starter?
Alternator (12v from ignition source? Does this need a fuse?)

5 circuits total.

Am I on the right path?
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Old 07-01-13, 10:06 AM
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Figured everything out.

Brake lights - 15A
Fuel Pump/Alternator 12v - 20A
Hatch Solenoids - 20A
Instruments - 15A

4 circuits total
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