What would you say is the average life of an engine that sees track days, say 4-5 a year?? Non-bridge port. My engine has about 25k(according to what the guy said it had when I got it) with probably 6-700 of those being track miles that I've put on it.

And also what do all ya'll tune your AFR's to?? still keep it around 11.5:1 or do you tend to go alittle richer because of the extra heat?? I think mine is around 11:1.

 

Paul Winter (on the email list, don't know if he is on the forum) has a track only car that sees 10k miles (3 years worth) between rebuilds.

It is a single turbo FD putting out ~450 RWHP.

 

That really depends on a lot of factors. RTS3GEN has had his Pettit Large Street Port motor for I believe 6 years now. He was doing a lot of track events a year (as he is an instructor) but has slowed down the past year (as he is building a nice family).

His car dyno'd at about 360rwhp at 15 PSI using the Pettit ECU. He runs the car usually at 10 PSI on the track (so probably around 300rwhp). On cooler days, I think he's cranked up the boost a bit on the road course but he keeps a close eye on his temps.

He also has many drag passes with the car and its still strong.

 

Mine does that and more with no trouble and it's all stock. About 50K currently on the motor and it's been run hard ever since it went into the car.

Track days aren't any harder on the motor unless you're having temperature problems.

 

Ok thats what I wanted to hear. I usually shut mine down on the track if it gets up to 110C. Last summer when it was around 90-95F, it only hit that on the last session of the day with about 5min left in the session so I just cooled it off and quit. Since then I've done some better ducting to the radiator and moved my A/C condensor out of the way.

I do AutoX 10-12 times a year, but I don't see that being any harder on it than some agressive street driving.

I just want it to last another 1.5-2yrs before I upgrade it to a street port, that way it gives me time to have an engine ready to drop in when mine goes to minimize down time.

 

You might also track your oil temps if you currently aren't.

Heh, even as slow as I drive on the track, my motor gave up on the track (it lasted a few years). I believe I could have prevented it with some better monitoring and cooling. I had increased the performance of the car without increasing its cooling capability. Not good but I believe I have address that this time around.

 

I know this has been said a million times, but just in case you missed it here it is once more. Definitely make sure you're monitoring oil temp and water temp and pit in and cool off if it starts getting too hot. In the summer on my stock-powered Touring I was seeing very high oil temps even though my water temps were fine. If you don't already have dual oil coolers, you will be overheating your oil at the track even with stock power and it gets worse as you modify the car for more power. This is certainly a good way to decrease your motor's longevity. After putting in a second oil cooler the temps were perfect under all weather conditions.

 

I have an R1 so I have the duel coolers. I've also spent hours before last season straightening the fins out on the coolers before I went to the track.

I do plan on getting an oil temp gauge before this season as I know that is a huge part, I just haven't done it yet, not to mention I really haven't been on the track for probably 6 months. And one of the track days I just decided the day before to go out and see if they had some openings, so I basically spent my time changing brake fluid, pads, and oil.

Do y'all run 20w-50 on the track?? I've been using that Valvoline race 20w-50.

 

Lucky you I got a pretty good deal on the R1 coolers from a boneyard out in UT of all places.

Yea, that's what I run.

 

Yup, the best thing you can do is make sure you have "enough" cooling.

Air. Water. Oil. Brakes.

I'm not sure there's such a thing as too much... until you can run around at 10/10ths on a 100 degree, 100% humidity day for a 30-40 min. session without going over 180 water/oil temp, and ambiant air temps.... you could always do with "more". <note: slight exageration for effect>

 

More than slight. Gross.

No sense in fueling the fire of people who insist their coolant temps must be like ice water.