f/p79

I'm building an autocross only F/P 79. It has an 86 13 B. I've stripped out everything including the dash. Does anyone know where I can find a SIMPLE diagram to wire the remaining electrical system? I have an aftermarket tach and I will be adding back in a set of gauges and electrical fan. I would like to run all new wire, so need the appropriate wire gauge. This should be easy, but I'm stumped. Thanks.

Travis R

Have you removed all the original wiring? I think any electronic component you buy will have a simple wiring diagram with it. 16-gauge wire should be good.
If you are running the stock 13b fuel injection then I guess you will use all the original under-hood wiring. I'll be running a stand alone ecu for my FP car, so I'll be making a new wiring harness.
I guess the hardest part would be wiring the alternator and voltage regulator?...
Good luck

yallgotboost

http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/

f/p79

Travis; I have removed virtually all old wiring. I'm running a Weber. What I need is how to connect the battery to starter, to coil, powering of ignition and gauges. Basic a to b to c. Several have told me it should be real easy. Not yet.
Thanks, yallgot boost.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Quick and sleazy job. This is just ignition and start for an electronic dist.

Battery ground to chassis ground. "Welding Cable"
Engine ground strap to chassis. "Welding Cable"

Battery positive to big lug on the starter. "Welding cable"

Battery positive to a toggle switch. 16-gauge
From Toggle to positive of both coils. 16-gauge

Battery positive to a push button switch.
From push button to the spade terminal on starter.

Battery positive to a toggle switch. 16-gauge
From Toggle to positive of fuel pump. 16-gauge

Battery positive to a toggle switch. 16-gauge
From Toggle to positive of elec. fan. 16-gauge

Negative of the leading coil to tack pick up wire. Wire tack like instructed in manual.

Wire distributor to coils like in the link above.


Flip your switches; you should have fan, fuel and spark.
Push the button to start.

You of course should add fuses in line and relays.




-billy

Redwood

Careful. I have stand alone management in my 85 (with 88 engine) and no interior anywhere. Between the two, I got bumped into EM, or told I would have to run with ballast in FP. I'm looking at the 2003 rules right now and it says, under 13B in F prepared "Alternate specification: Non-stock fuel injection add 175 lbs." If you really want to stay in FP, you'll have to either run stock FI wiring or a carb. Good luck.

Travis R

You should get a clarification from the SCCA rules commitee. I was told "non-stock fuel injection" refered to the number and location of the fuel injectors. So, yes if you moved the injector you will have to add 175lbs to stay in FP, bringing your minimum weight up to 2075lbs. I plan on running the stock lower intake manifold to ensure no one gives me crap about "number and location".
Running a stand alone ECU in-and-of-itself should not constitute a violation of the rules since you are not changing anything that cannot be changed on the cars with carbs. Just like porting is legal because it only changes timeing and air flow... similar mods can be had on other prepared cars with a cam change.

Redwood

I think you're right on that. I just read through the Prepared section on Fuel Injection again and it definitely sounds like stock fuel injection is anything that retains the original layout and type. Thanks for clearing that up, I appreciate it.

Next issue, is there a problem in FP running a second gen engine? Or does it count as a production option since the first gen could be had with a 13B, albeit a slightly different one?

f/p79

Thanks billy. That looks like what I need. I appreciate all the input. From what I have seen in the SCCA rule book, I should be ok with the Weber carb in FP.

f/p79

Thanks billy. That looks like what I need. I appreciate all the input. From what I have seen in the SCCA rule book, I should be ok with the Weber carb in FP.
The engine is a 6 port 13B, same as my SE. Should be ok.

Travis R

I thought the 13b that came in the gsl-se was a 4 port motor? Either way you'll be fine though, especially with a carb.
Good luck

Amagi82

what is the point of the relays? What do they really do? And do you have any info on getting little devices like the warning lights and whatnot from the gauge cluster to work? Or will i have to trace every individual stupid wire around the car to make a wiring harness?

Sorry 'bout my ignorance, my knowledge of electronics is limited to say the least

leatherseatcovers

The relays are there to take the load. All the switch does is turn the relay off or on. With out the relay the switch would take the load and probably burn up sooner.

When I rewired my car I got a friend to help me. I was somewhat lost on how to do it myself. I completely removed the old harness and bought a couple roles of wire, box of connectors and a case of beer(very important). We eventually got it wired and running. I couldn't have done it without help though.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Exactly, correct. You need a relay so the amperage is not pulled trough the switch. You are running 12 volts trough all the wires and switches but the amperage draw trough them will differ. Your headlights will pull way more amperage than the dome light. A relay is designed to handle the amperage draw and is controlled by the switch. Same theory behind a starter solenoid.

Fuses are a must as well. Put them in line and if anything ever goes to ground it will save you from rebuilding the harness.

-billy

Amagi82

how many amps do the headlights, coil, fuel pump, etc take?

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

A quick way to figure what fuse to put in line would be to look at the fuse block that came out of the car. On the cover it will tell you what fuse runs what part and what size fuse it needs.


-billy

Amagi82

great, now i get to go look for it, lol... i wonder where the hell it went.

Amagi82

well, didnt think I was gonna do it, but I've decided to rewire my entire car. Bare minimums for street legalness pretty much. The great thing is I wont need a key any more, my drivers door lock is busted and I'm rigging up the push button starter, haha. Its the POS car security system. Your car looks like such a pile of crap that nobody in their right mind would dare steal it, hahaha

Amagi82

wooohooo I just drilled holes in the firewall area up top, so it goes to the windhield wiper area, and I mounted my switches in that wall there, they fit nicely and look sweet I gotta get one more switch, for the fuel pump, and then i still gotta attach my push button starter, which i just tested, and it works awesome The interior will be absolutely BARREN. I'm talking no dash, virtually no wires, no NOTHING.

Travis R

Baren like this?

RacerJason

iTrader: (5)

My car looked like that a year ago. If I can I'll post pics of it's latest shape this weekend.

f/p79

I can relate to that bare metal. It really looks empty after you get the dash out. After having the car down to a shell, it was exciting to put the passenger seat and shoulder harnesses in. The driver's seat will be in when I finally get the wiring done. Limited time makes it seem forevvvvvver.

Amagi82

haha, pretty much, except mine has a drivers seat, and there is some sound deadening tar yet to be removed. Theres also some rust holes i need to fix, hehe

oh yea, where's the spare tire area there?? I thought they all had the trunk area indent where the spare goes.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

That is a second gen shell.

-billy

Travis R

Ya, the spare tire sits upright against the very back of the car in the 2nd gens, incase you didn't know.
The car needs a little bit of body work (minor front end bonk), so while it's at the body shop I'll have them make sure the frame is straight. then the cage goes in.
Installing the seat and harness will seem like a big victory. Then I can strap into the car and make race car noises... Maybe I'll sit a TV on the hood and watch in-car F1 footage and pretend I'm a good driver.