Post your dash setup!
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Post your dash setup!
Hey guys! Starting an 87 FC racecar build soon and debating between keeping the stock dash or fabbing one up. Let's see your setups
#2
Old Rotary Dog
What does your class allow and/or what is the penalty for pulling the dash?
I have the stock dash in my track car (interior otherwise gutted). The center console has been replaced by a panel which holds the real gauges (H2O temp, oil pressure and temp), brake bias and battery cut, plus a few switches. While the gauge position is not optimal, keeping the original instrument cluster allows me to slowly migrate over functionality (wipers, fuel gauge, tach, etc.) while keeping the stock harnesses in place for the time being.
I'll see if I can find a few photos of the setup.
-b
I have the stock dash in my track car (interior otherwise gutted). The center console has been replaced by a panel which holds the real gauges (H2O temp, oil pressure and temp), brake bias and battery cut, plus a few switches. While the gauge position is not optimal, keeping the original instrument cluster allows me to slowly migrate over functionality (wipers, fuel gauge, tach, etc.) while keeping the stock harnesses in place for the time being.
I'll see if I can find a few photos of the setup.
-b
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#9
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#12
JustAnotherFC
iTrader: (2)
The grooves kinda dig into your hand.
So, bottom line, I love the look and shape but ergonomics could be better.
There is a guy on the forms who makes acrylic *****, I have contemplated having him make this for me in acrylic.
#14
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (3)
My dash. The car is built to SCCA STU specs so the OE dash pad is required. I have built other cars where the dash can be removed and that makes things allot easier. So if I could ditch the dash pad and be compliant I would do it.
I used an NOS Stewart Warner Trackforce memory tach with a low oil light and a shift light on either side. All old school Stewart Warner gauges in the center with a Westach dual pyrometer and an RPM switch for the shift light.
I used an NOS Stewart Warner Trackforce memory tach with a low oil light and a shift light on either side. All old school Stewart Warner gauges in the center with a Westach dual pyrometer and an RPM switch for the shift light.
#17
NA-BOOSTIN
My dash. The car is built to SCCA STU specs so the OE dash pad is required. I have built other cars where the dash can be removed and that makes things allot easier. So if I could ditch the dash pad and be compliant I would do it. I used an NOS Stewart Warner Trackforce memory tach with a low oil light and a shift light on either side. All old school Stewart Warner gauges in the center with a Westach dual pyrometer and an RPM switch for the shift light.
#19
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
Nice, I have a similar deal. My light goes on when my Accusump dumps at 25 PSI. I have it wired to the accusump pressure switch.
Pictures of my dash. It's just a shell, all HVAC, radio and original gauges/wiring removed.
Pictures of my dash. It's just a shell, all HVAC, radio and original gauges/wiring removed.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 03-21-15 at 09:53 AM.
#22
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
Thanks for the info!!
Found it:
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=11795.165
Last edited by KNONFS; 03-23-15 at 01:00 PM.
#23
Full Member
Thread Starter
Interesting to see an FB in STU. What's done to the car because I know STU has some pretty serious stuff like old World Challenge cars
#24
Rotary Freak
Again, sorry for the crummy picture, but here is my dash setup. Its a bit different in that behind the panel to my right, all of the different electrical circuits in the car come to a common point. As well my Megasquirt is there as well as my data logging. Easy to access in an emergency, but a bit messy looking from the passenger door with 8 billion wires and relays and junctions.
Eric
Eric
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