Porsche Club Time Trial - What a blast! Poor Porsches
10-08-03, 07:44 PM
#27
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wheres the pics?? i wanna see the tubeframe 914-6!! those cars usally are built for specific classes to be raced in. But if it was a powered by a 3.2 or 3.6-3.8 liter, and set up for a open class im very impressed with your times. I race a 2.1liter car with mostly stock parts and set up suspension with some kumho tires and i fair very well against my t2 with fully setup coilovers and 332rwhp. True there are plenty of new cars that can whoop up on a 914. But 914's are a very good chassis to setup a race car and have very very good track manors. 
10-08-03, 11:15 PM
#28
dont run low oil. oil is very important part of rotary cooling. got a aftermarket water gauge(my friend's stock did not move a bit when his water gauge read 110) got a after market vent hood(japan magazine test it, it drop 4c of water temp during high speed). and seal ur undertray . good luck on next track day
10-08-03, 11:40 PM
#29
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I should have some pics later. And maybe even some video. We'll see.
Yeah the 914-6 was a total race car. And VERY fast.
Like I said, the porsches that beat me were all trailered in. Both the other people there and I were very surprised at my times.
Ok.. fine. I guess I'd better get a REAL temp gauge before I blow my motor... if it's not already too late that is.
Yeah the 914-6 was a total race car. And VERY fast.
Like I said, the porsches that beat me were all trailered in. Both the other people there and I were very surprised at my times.
Ok.. fine. I guess I'd better get a REAL temp gauge before I blow my motor... if it's not already too late that is.
10-09-03, 08:15 AM
#30
John,
I think I read in the electrical spec section of the FSM that the stock temperature gauge "normal" setting, ie mid level "range" is between 140 and 240deg F...or somewhere around there. I've seen 110deg C on my PFC and my stock gauge will not move. If your gauge is even so much as inching above dead horizontal you are well into the danger zone. Don't treat the gauge as a guage treat it as a standard idiot light because that's basically all the info you're gonna get.
diyman,
although not optimal running a 1/2 to a quart low is standard operating practice for FD's running on the track to minimize oil pickup into the intake system throught the PCV system. So long as the oil pickup in the pan stays covered and gets fed, ie. you have oil pressure no sweat. You will loose a slight bit of oil cooling capacity true but running with a "full" pan you will loose that extra quart after the first few laps anyway due to the above reason so start with it a quart down and avoid the mess. And FWIW in case anyone didn't now, the hashmarks on the dipstick do NOT correspond to one quart. It is more like 1.5 quarts so running with the oil level about halfway down the dipstick hashmarks is equivalent to about 3/4 of a quart low.
Regards,
Crispy
I think I read in the electrical spec section of the FSM that the stock temperature gauge "normal" setting, ie mid level "range" is between 140 and 240deg F...or somewhere around there. I've seen 110deg C on my PFC and my stock gauge will not move. If your gauge is even so much as inching above dead horizontal you are well into the danger zone. Don't treat the gauge as a guage treat it as a standard idiot light because that's basically all the info you're gonna get.
diyman,
although not optimal running a 1/2 to a quart low is standard operating practice for FD's running on the track to minimize oil pickup into the intake system throught the PCV system. So long as the oil pickup in the pan stays covered and gets fed, ie. you have oil pressure no sweat. You will loose a slight bit of oil cooling capacity true but running with a "full" pan you will loose that extra quart after the first few laps anyway due to the above reason so start with it a quart down and avoid the mess. And FWIW in case anyone didn't now, the hashmarks on the dipstick do NOT correspond to one quart. It is more like 1.5 quarts so running with the oil level about halfway down the dipstick hashmarks is equivalent to about 3/4 of a quart low.
Regards,
Crispy
10-09-03, 08:23 AM
#31
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by CrispyRX7
so running with the oil level about halfway down the dipstick hashmarks is equivalent to about 3/4 of a quart low.
so running with the oil level about halfway down the dipstick hashmarks is equivalent to about 3/4 of a quart low.
10-09-03, 01:38 PM
#32
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Crispy,
Thanks for the info on the gauge. I hate to clutter up my stock interior with extra gauges but I suppose it's best.
An interesting story of RX7 abuse:
Six months ago I went to a track day at "Streets of Willow" with my Miata. There was a guy there with a totally stock '94 R2 RX7. It was a hot day and I had to blast the heater even on my Miata to keep temps down. During the third run session he pulls off the track and is boiling over. We pop his hood and I see that the hose from the AST to his expansion tank has blown off from the pressure and is shooting steam everywhere. I knew a bit about RX7s since I had owned mine for about a year back then. I told him he should turn his engine off right away since it's really bad to overheat a rotary. He insisted that he needed to idle the car to cool down his turbos and wouldn't turn off the car! The guy was pretty nuts. After about five minutes of his car shooting steam I finally convinced him to shut the car off. He told me that his stock gauge normally hits the hot mark when he's on the track but that this was the first time he had actually overheated. I told him I had heard that if your gauge gets anywhere above the middle you should take it easy and cool the car off. This was news to him. We later topped him up with some water and he drove home. I wonder if he made it. I also wonder for how long he had been tracking the car with the temp gauge pegged at hot before this happened.
-John Magnuson
Thanks for the info on the gauge. I hate to clutter up my stock interior with extra gauges but I suppose it's best.
An interesting story of RX7 abuse:
Six months ago I went to a track day at "Streets of Willow" with my Miata. There was a guy there with a totally stock '94 R2 RX7. It was a hot day and I had to blast the heater even on my Miata to keep temps down. During the third run session he pulls off the track and is boiling over. We pop his hood and I see that the hose from the AST to his expansion tank has blown off from the pressure and is shooting steam everywhere. I knew a bit about RX7s since I had owned mine for about a year back then. I told him he should turn his engine off right away since it's really bad to overheat a rotary. He insisted that he needed to idle the car to cool down his turbos and wouldn't turn off the car! The guy was pretty nuts. After about five minutes of his car shooting steam I finally convinced him to shut the car off. He told me that his stock gauge normally hits the hot mark when he's on the track but that this was the first time he had actually overheated. I told him I had heard that if your gauge gets anywhere above the middle you should take it easy and cool the car off. This was news to him. We later topped him up with some water and he drove home. I wonder if he made it. I also wonder for how long he had been tracking the car with the temp gauge pegged at hot before this happened.
-John Magnuson
10-09-03, 02:19 PM
#33
1993 RX7 R1
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Originally posted by John Magnuson
I hate to clutter up my stock interior with extra gauges but I suppose it's best.
I hate to clutter up my stock interior with extra gauges but I suppose it's best.
The instructions are availble in your own backyard, so to speak.San Diego RX7 Club technical info
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