chrono89

Hi guys, I'm new here, so please don't flame me, I've found myself lost! lol
Ok so here's the story
I've been very active drifting for the last 3-4 years and just recently acquired a GTO and have been playing around making that my new drift car.
As a result of recent goings on (i.e. fiance pregnant, etc.) I can't afford to keep that car anymore and am selling it.
HOWEVER!
I still need a drift car! I've had all of the popular drift cars (AE86, S13, S14, FC, etc.) in the past. Currently, I have 2 chasis' that I can use in order to build myself a drift car that takes me anywhere I need to go (i.e. I'm planning ahead for the future and would like to build-in the possibility of going to formula d, not saying it will happen, but if I dare to dream, I might as well be prepared should I ever get the chance!)

Long story short I have an EMPTY FC chasis (no interior, no engine, tranny, diff, almost nothing, the wheels are barely on the car, even the steering rack is bad) and an old '83 280zx. I'm thinking the FC, especially given my previous experience w/ an old 86 n/a FC, is going to be the best choice. The main 2 questions at this point that need to be answered are:
What Engine?
Rotary and drift together scare me, so I originally ruled out dropping in a 13B and was going to go straight for an SR20 (even though I don't neccesarily like that engine, it works). BUT I've been doing research and found that might be a little more difficult than it's worth. Obviously I know I'm on an RX-7 forum and the answers will be quite biased, but that's fine because I'm building an RX-7! Just please don't turn the thread into a huge war over piston vs. rotary, I really do need to know which will be better for me, and if I do go rotary, which one? The 93-95 13BTT or the T2? I need these questions answered with some detail because I know very little about rotary.
The determining factors I'm basing my decision off of are:
PRICE! One of the most important, not just the initial cost of engine and parts to drop in, but also the cost to build-up and get the right level of power I want as well as the maintenance cost that comes from building a car for track only with each engine/tranny combo.
And the second question is where is the best place to get the engine you recommend?

I welcome all responses and thank you guys so much for your time reading this incredibly long message. Thanks in advance for the help, I eagerly await your advice!!!

tinvestor

I would say TII 13BTT is just a PITA and more expensive to buy and mod. As far as who to get the engine from. read the good guy bad guy section that is way better than listening to 1 person that you dont know. for $$ I would buy off the for sale section here on the forum

iox106

iTrader: (1)

Why does a rotary + drift scare you?

chrono89

The drift events I goto here in Texas it's EXTREMELY RARE to see a rotary drifting and I've never seen one make it through a whole day on the track. Mechanical problems or otherwise always come up and when I had my FC it had several problems of the worse kind imo (electrical!) so I decided to stop screwing with it and dropped it for another car.
Now that I'm finally building a stripped down track only car I'm not too worried about electrical problems, lol. The main thing I need is reassurance or advice on whether or not that rotary is going to blow up when I bring it near or hold it at redline for a 30-45 second run through a drift course?
Hearing TII as a good idea kind of reinforces my current line of thinking after seeing a few prices, but I'd like to get more oppinions before I make my final choice.
Thanks again guys! Keep the suggestions coming!

SCCAITS

iTrader: (3)

I don't think that's a problem. Rev limiter on a FC 13B NA is around 7800, my rev limiter is clipped and it regularly sees 8500+ RPM, in fact my shift light is at 8000 and I routinely take it past that to avoid a needless shift before a corner. It takes this abuse for 20-40min at a time and doesn't dip below 5500 RPM, your 45 seconds shouldn't be an issue.

I don't know anything about drift cars, but I think I've heard it's the suspension rather than rotary motor that makes the FC not the most popular drift car.

iox106

iTrader: (1)

Rotarys a rev happy motors like SCCAITS said 45sec would be no problem

chrono89

I've heard the NAs are far more durable than the turbo, is this true? How durable is that T2, and since I'll be building it up quite a bit before I drop it in, what are some of the key parts or tricks I need to do to ensure it can withstand something like that, if you can race yours at that high rev for a prolonged period of time that's just what I'm looking for. What are some of the internals I need to build-up to insure that my TII (supposing that;s what I'm getting) would be near that level of durability? Also my next question is how much would a completely raced stripped RX-7 with a TII weigh, just a ball park, over 2500, less than 2500, less then 3000 (I hope!)? Thanks!

iox106

iTrader: (1)

I know that NA are more durable than a turbo engine, but wit a good tune your goal should be no problem. Weight wise FC rx7 weights about 2800 from the factory. Striped it would be under 2500.

Don49

iTrader: (3)

My 90 EP SCCA race car weighs 2315 with 5 gals of fuel.

SCCAITS

iTrader: (3)

Mine weighs 2350# dry but has 150# of ballast to reach a minimum weight with driver of 2680#. The interior is out with the exception of the dash, doors gutted, stock body with glass.

wrankin

Well, while we're all putting numbers up, my FC track car, gutted interior, 4-pt roll bar, a couple Kirkey seats and no emissions weighs in right at 2400 lbs w/ a 1/2 tank of gas and no driver. I still have power windows, mirrors and the sunroof (gotta have few luxuries when cruising the paddock, right? ).

-bill

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

If I were drifting and had an FC chassis, I'd put a V8 in it. Lots of progressive torque to break the wheels loose and keep them spinning in a good lightweight chassis.

thetech

iTrader: (1)

I am (or was) down to 2180lbs in my FC, but that's lexan all around, absolutely no interior/dash, etc etc.

I'm guessing I've just added about 200lbs with the 20B, turbo, intercooler, etc though.