My 20B racecar thread
#26
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I think I'm going to keep the same blue and possibly paint the centers of the wheels blue too...not sure about that last part though, have to see how I'm feeling
#28
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Ho.ly.sheit!
This build is excellent, nice info about the brembo conversion as well...i had no idea that could be done as "hassle free" as it was!
Could help me out as well, i have a FC front suspension conversion on my GSL-SE complete with brakes and this looks like a great upgrade without running into shitloads of expense...
I was thinking about doing the rear suspension conversion from the GSL-SE's live axle to an FC setup (TurboII FC with LSD), but i have no clue if its been done before and wouldn't mind getting some advice/info/help if you guys are familiar with this conversion...
Got some Tein coilovers for the car as well, hopefully the next season of autocross should be a bit more exciting with the new suspension setup!
Dunno if i overlooked it in the thread, but what power figures does your track car put down "the tech"?
This build is excellent, nice info about the brembo conversion as well...i had no idea that could be done as "hassle free" as it was!
Could help me out as well, i have a FC front suspension conversion on my GSL-SE complete with brakes and this looks like a great upgrade without running into shitloads of expense...
I was thinking about doing the rear suspension conversion from the GSL-SE's live axle to an FC setup (TurboII FC with LSD), but i have no clue if its been done before and wouldn't mind getting some advice/info/help if you guys are familiar with this conversion...
Got some Tein coilovers for the car as well, hopefully the next season of autocross should be a bit more exciting with the new suspension setup!
Dunno if i overlooked it in the thread, but what power figures does your track car put down "the tech"?
#29
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I took the car out to Buttonwillow this Friday for their open testing session. It was the first time I had been out with the car in months, and having replaced pretty much replaced everything that connects the car to the ground it was like a whole new car all over again (in a good way).
- The Brembo's were AWESOME. I was using some heavily used Hawk Blue's from my buddys Evo and they still performed magnificently. There was some pretty heavy pedal knockback, so I had to pump the brakes with my left foot prior to pretty much every corner and will have to figure why that is (wheel bearings maybe)
- I need to fix my ducting/cooling as I was getting oil and water temps as high as 230*, which is definitely more than I am comfortable with on the water side. I ripped the undertray/front lip off the car in the first session out (standard for me) so that definitely did not help.
- I have a serious fuel starve issue in corners. I think I know why though (thanks SCCAITS) as I did not plumb the return line straight back into my surge tank, instead it is just dumping into the fuel cell. I also need to mount my fuel pump below the cell instead of sitting on top of the cell as it is now.
- The Koni's were fantastic...the difference between them and the JIC's is night and day. I had them on full soft and never really got a chance to adjust them due to the fuel starve problem cutting all my sessions short. Overall all the spherical and bearing suspension mods made an incredible difference.
- Having 335's in the rear makes an unbelievable difference in corner exit traction, just unbelievable. I can now actually get on the power at apex and not worry about feeling like a Formula D contestant. I also discovered while aligning the car the other night that the DTSS eliminator bushing things I have were completely loose, so the rear wheels had something like 3/4" play in the toe direction...no wonder it felt so sloppy before, doh!
- Lastly, here are a couple of video clips. The new camera I am using evidently sucks as the vibration is barely watchable, but here goes anyway:
Video 1, random testing lap
Video 2, chasing an ASC stock car
- The Brembo's were AWESOME. I was using some heavily used Hawk Blue's from my buddys Evo and they still performed magnificently. There was some pretty heavy pedal knockback, so I had to pump the brakes with my left foot prior to pretty much every corner and will have to figure why that is (wheel bearings maybe)
- I need to fix my ducting/cooling as I was getting oil and water temps as high as 230*, which is definitely more than I am comfortable with on the water side. I ripped the undertray/front lip off the car in the first session out (standard for me) so that definitely did not help.
- I have a serious fuel starve issue in corners. I think I know why though (thanks SCCAITS) as I did not plumb the return line straight back into my surge tank, instead it is just dumping into the fuel cell. I also need to mount my fuel pump below the cell instead of sitting on top of the cell as it is now.
- The Koni's were fantastic...the difference between them and the JIC's is night and day. I had them on full soft and never really got a chance to adjust them due to the fuel starve problem cutting all my sessions short. Overall all the spherical and bearing suspension mods made an incredible difference.
- Having 335's in the rear makes an unbelievable difference in corner exit traction, just unbelievable. I can now actually get on the power at apex and not worry about feeling like a Formula D contestant. I also discovered while aligning the car the other night that the DTSS eliminator bushing things I have were completely loose, so the rear wheels had something like 3/4" play in the toe direction...no wonder it felt so sloppy before, doh!
- Lastly, here are a couple of video clips. The new camera I am using evidently sucks as the vibration is barely watchable, but here goes anyway:
Video 1, random testing lap
Video 2, chasing an ASC stock car
#31
NASA geek
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Bitchin race car!
You might want to do some revision of your front brakes. The EVO uses a diferential bore caliper. The leading bore is 40mm while the rear is 46mm This is for even pad pressures and for a more even wear on them. Since the EVo has its brakes mounted in front of the wheel center line and the FC mounts it behind, you would have swaped the left caliper for the right so you keep your brake line on top. This ends up having the brakes BACKWARDS. From the looks of it, it appears you can swap the bleeders and crossover line from one end of the caliper to the other. And it looks like for the brake line/supply line that there is a bung already there so you keep your brake line ontop (for propery bleeding purposes) but it needs to be drilled and taped then the other hole plugged. Seems like it would work. I posted a little on the subject back on Project7's EVO brake thread.
~Mike....................
You might want to do some revision of your front brakes. The EVO uses a diferential bore caliper. The leading bore is 40mm while the rear is 46mm This is for even pad pressures and for a more even wear on them. Since the EVo has its brakes mounted in front of the wheel center line and the FC mounts it behind, you would have swaped the left caliper for the right so you keep your brake line on top. This ends up having the brakes BACKWARDS. From the looks of it, it appears you can swap the bleeders and crossover line from one end of the caliper to the other. And it looks like for the brake line/supply line that there is a bung already there so you keep your brake line ontop (for propery bleeding purposes) but it needs to be drilled and taped then the other hole plugged. Seems like it would work. I posted a little on the subject back on Project7's EVO brake thread.
~Mike....................
#34
Rotary Enthusiast
- I have a serious fuel starve issue in corners. I think I know why though (thanks SCCAITS) as I did not plumb the return line straight back into my surge tank, instead it is just dumping into the fuel cell. I also need to mount my fuel pump below the cell instead of sitting on top of the cell as it is now.
Looks like a fun car! Enjoy!
- John
#35
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Thanks John. Hopefully as of yesterday it has been fixed, I won't know until I get the car back on track...quite alot of work to do until then as I am completely re-arranging my cooling system among other things...
#36
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Yesterday we fabbed up the new v-mount setup on the car. Previously I had an FMIC, an 18x11x2" oil cooler, and then the radiator all stacked in front of each other which really wasn't doing the job. I decided to go with a v-mount for the intercooler and radiator at the front then mount 2 smaller oil coolers in the bumper ducts on either side.
Here are some pics:
Here are some pics:
#38
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I am going back to a 2-rotor engine. I decided a few months ago that competing in NASA Super Unlimited was not a reasonable proposition for me, given the fact that Daytona Prototypes and other non-production cars are completely legal in the class. IMO it should not be possible for a production car to ever compete in that class.
New setup is a 13B-RE, bridgeported, and I think I just decided on a GT35R as the turbo. My estimate based on weight for the Super Touring 1 class is that I will only be able to have a max of 375rwhp on DOT tires - it may be slightly more depending on what the weight of the car ends up being. I decided it just wasn't worth having the weight, heat, and additional complexity of the 20B to make 375rwhp. In hindsight, what BigAl is building (a 20B PP) would have been perfect.
#40
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Love that car man! Really like the v-mount setup, now you can help me with mine when I start it next month (what you did on brackets/mounts and more pictures please). Keep up the great work!
#43
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Yea it is the AFCO dual pass. With the 20B and the FMIC, oil cooler and radiator stacked in front of each other I could still not get below 230*F on the track under hot conditions!
#44
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Few more pics, we got the other oil cooler mounted, put the engine in and mocked up what the sheetmetal ducting/box will look like:
Last edited by thetech; 10-14-08 at 12:01 PM.