key steps to keeping a rotary happy for track day?
#1
key steps to keeping a rotary happy for track day?
I've done a bunch of work to my car and spent too much money getting the engine rebuilt. What kind of things will make sure the motor stays happy and doesnt blow up?
FC chassis
S5 irons
S4 rotor housings (OMP blocked off)
FD rotors (race clearanced)
FFE ignition trigger kit
vmount intercooler setup
koyo radiator
hybrid turbo
is it best to not boost it hard all of the time? should i pick up a oil temp gauge? I tracked the car a bit when it was NA but I know now that it is turbo the car will be a whole different animal and I cannot afford to **** up
FC chassis
S5 irons
S4 rotor housings (OMP blocked off)
FD rotors (race clearanced)
FFE ignition trigger kit
vmount intercooler setup
koyo radiator
hybrid turbo
is it best to not boost it hard all of the time? should i pick up a oil temp gauge? I tracked the car a bit when it was NA but I know now that it is turbo the car will be a whole different animal and I cannot afford to **** up
#5
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Just as HadaVette suggests - keep it cool. Have you got your intercooler/radiator set-up ducted? Make sure that every bit of air is forced through either of them ...
#6
in order:
Arghx - would it be wise to have timing decrease with increased IATs? I believe this is a feature in the megasquirt.
HadaVette, Eage8 - I have a prosport water temp sensor that is plugged in the rear iron. GM temp sensor tapped in the back of the water pump where the factory ECU sensor would go. water temp and oil pressure are in the center gauge area. boost gauge and wideband are on a-pillar. Megasquirt 2 ECU.
Shaun - I am working on ducting the vmount as best as possible with sheet metal, and then adhesive lined foam where it meets so that it is as air-tight as possible.
Arghx - would it be wise to have timing decrease with increased IATs? I believe this is a feature in the megasquirt.
HadaVette, Eage8 - I have a prosport water temp sensor that is plugged in the rear iron. GM temp sensor tapped in the back of the water pump where the factory ECU sensor would go. water temp and oil pressure are in the center gauge area. boost gauge and wideband are on a-pillar. Megasquirt 2 ECU.
Shaun - I am working on ducting the vmount as best as possible with sheet metal, and then adhesive lined foam where it meets so that it is as air-tight as possible.
#7
1308ccs of awesome
iTrader: (9)
in order:
Arghx - would it be wise to have timing decrease with increased IATs? I believe this is a feature in the megasquirt.
HadaVette, Eage8 - I have a prosport water temp sensor that is plugged in the rear iron. GM temp sensor tapped in the back of the water pump where the factory ECU sensor would go. water temp and oil pressure are in the center gauge area. boost gauge and wideband are on a-pillar. Megasquirt 2 ECU.
Shaun - I am working on ducting the vmount as best as possible with sheet metal, and then adhesive lined foam where it meets so that it is as air-tight as possible.
Arghx - would it be wise to have timing decrease with increased IATs? I believe this is a feature in the megasquirt.
HadaVette, Eage8 - I have a prosport water temp sensor that is plugged in the rear iron. GM temp sensor tapped in the back of the water pump where the factory ECU sensor would go. water temp and oil pressure are in the center gauge area. boost gauge and wideband are on a-pillar. Megasquirt 2 ECU.
Shaun - I am working on ducting the vmount as best as possible with sheet metal, and then adhesive lined foam where it meets so that it is as air-tight as possible.
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#8
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
I'd echo what others have said about cooling. Dual oil coolers might be a good idea as previously mentioned. You'll find out either way at your first track session.
At the track, have oil and water temperatures in mind that you will not go above. Use your right foot to modulate fluid temperatures as needed.
Below are pix of my car (FD). I've tried to do what I can to improve cooling. (Big radiator, larger oil coolers, vented hood, ducting for FMIC and radiator, upper cooler on driver side is for GForce transmission)
Guy
At the track, have oil and water temperatures in mind that you will not go above. Use your right foot to modulate fluid temperatures as needed.
Below are pix of my car (FD). I've tried to do what I can to improve cooling. (Big radiator, larger oil coolers, vented hood, ducting for FMIC and radiator, upper cooler on driver side is for GForce transmission)
Guy
#10
Let's get silly...
iTrader: (7)
1. Sort out your ducting. Make sure no air bypasses a cooling core (oil, rad, etc)
2. Test and dont ignore water temps over about 220 and oil temps anywhere near 250...
3. Add cooling capacity as necessary, larger or more coolers, know what should get virgin air from the bumper and what can get secondary hotter air.
Read all about max temps and ways to do additional cooling capacity, these forums are FULL of that info.
2. Test and dont ignore water temps over about 220 and oil temps anywhere near 250...
3. Add cooling capacity as necessary, larger or more coolers, know what should get virgin air from the bumper and what can get secondary hotter air.
Read all about max temps and ways to do additional cooling capacity, these forums are FULL of that info.
#11
Thanks everyone. It looks like I was along the right path and didnt miss much. I need to pick up an oil temperature sensor and when I do get it on track I plan on starting slow and pushing it more to find out where things get out of control (if they do)
Forgot to mention this is an FC, does the need for 2 oil coolers still apply? It is currently slapped in front of the radiator like so...
the cardboard is just mock-up
Forgot to mention this is an FC, does the need for 2 oil coolers still apply? It is currently slapped in front of the radiator like so...
the cardboard is just mock-up
#13
I have a friend who can fabricate whatever i need in aluminum sheet metal. I just need to be able to mock it up and get him a good template. my issue is the intercooler isnt nice and square so I'm trying to figure out how to seal it well without making it too complex. I might just use some aluminum tape used to seal duct work in houses.
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