Interest Level of Remote Battery Tray Kit for FC
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Safety Guy
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Interest Level of Remote Battery Tray Kit for FC
I've just completed a prototype rear battery tray for my FC and was wondering how interested other people would be in the idea. I thought this was a good forum to start with.
The tray fits in the spare tire well (you have to remove the spare tire) and bolts into the existing holes for the rear tow hooks. It consists of two (2) 6V red top Optima (you can use whatever you like) batteries that are wired in series. The benefit of this is that each 6V has 800 cranking amps while a single 12V only has 1200A so you get another 400A!
The other major benefit is that the batteries are mounted down and back low behind the rear axle. Better traction, lower center of gravity, etc.
The major problem I have with a 12V battery tray being mounted in the hatch area is that is is obnoxious, is in the way of anything you want to put back there, and has to be hard-mounted into the car which may damage it.
The kit would consist of the mounting bar, bolts, and wire bridge between the two batteries. You would have to provide the wiring harness to mount the battery into your charging system and ground it.
I can include the batteries if you like as well as part of the kit. I can manufacture these for about $250 each (bracket, terminal/wire bridge, and bolts only). I have to look up the cost of the twin 6V's as they are custom order pieces.
I tried posting pics but this forum doesn't seem to allow that anymore in the last couple weeks for whatever reason.
Email or PM me for pics, inquiries, orders, etc.
Thanks, Kerry.
The tray fits in the spare tire well (you have to remove the spare tire) and bolts into the existing holes for the rear tow hooks. It consists of two (2) 6V red top Optima (you can use whatever you like) batteries that are wired in series. The benefit of this is that each 6V has 800 cranking amps while a single 12V only has 1200A so you get another 400A!
The other major benefit is that the batteries are mounted down and back low behind the rear axle. Better traction, lower center of gravity, etc.
The major problem I have with a 12V battery tray being mounted in the hatch area is that is is obnoxious, is in the way of anything you want to put back there, and has to be hard-mounted into the car which may damage it.
The kit would consist of the mounting bar, bolts, and wire bridge between the two batteries. You would have to provide the wiring harness to mount the battery into your charging system and ground it.
I can include the batteries if you like as well as part of the kit. I can manufacture these for about $250 each (bracket, terminal/wire bridge, and bolts only). I have to look up the cost of the twin 6V's as they are custom order pieces.
I tried posting pics but this forum doesn't seem to allow that anymore in the last couple weeks for whatever reason.
Email or PM me for pics, inquiries, orders, etc.
Thanks, Kerry.
#3
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That's a great idea. I am too cheap to buy one but I would probably make one for my own car . . . though I already made a box for the stock 12v battery in my right bin.
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Who here keeps the front fiberglass beam vs. a FMIC? Doesn't matter much if the person is going over 40 anyhow...you're rear end is toast
Think of it this way, getting hit hard in the rear would be a safety factor in that it would automatically cut off the battery and turn off the fuel pump!!!
Think of it this way, getting hit hard in the rear would be a safety factor in that it would automatically cut off the battery and turn off the fuel pump!!!
#7
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Re: Interest Level of Remote Battery Tray Kit for FC
Originally posted by Turbo 3
The benefit of this is that each 6V has 800 cranking amps while a single 12V only has 1200A so you get another 400A!
The benefit of this is that each 6V has 800 cranking amps while a single 12V only has 1200A so you get another 400A!
This would be true if the batteries were in parallel, not in series. But then you'd only have 6 volts.
Also, by putting them out past the tail you are increasing polar moment of intertia of the car and screwing with the weight distribution... the best place to put the battery is really in the bin behind the passenger seat...
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The batteries are secured to the tray by being slotted in the sides, and there is a plate in the center that is bolted down. They don't move at all.
Gene is correct, the A is 800, not multiplied as I initially thought.
I don't see how the inertia is going to be compromised that much if you already have a full tank of gas...assuming you have the stock fuel tank.
A better place to put the battery would be in the seat location previously used by the passenger so it would balance the car evenly to offset the driver. Taking that a step further, sit so the shifter is between your legs and be balanced L/R perfectly.
This tray is designed to be used for anyone, including racers and street-driven cars. It has compromises in its design as does nearly everything else. While it may compromise some inertia in hard cornering and displace the spare tire, it is completely hidden, in a low location, and doesn't waste room for other things you could be using your storage bins for, like storing items, a fire extinguisher, stereo equipment, etc, etc. It's extremely sturdy and is custom-built for this specific car unlike other "universal" battery boxes.
Gene is correct, the A is 800, not multiplied as I initially thought.
I don't see how the inertia is going to be compromised that much if you already have a full tank of gas...assuming you have the stock fuel tank.
A better place to put the battery would be in the seat location previously used by the passenger so it would balance the car evenly to offset the driver. Taking that a step further, sit so the shifter is between your legs and be balanced L/R perfectly.
This tray is designed to be used for anyone, including racers and street-driven cars. It has compromises in its design as does nearly everything else. While it may compromise some inertia in hard cornering and displace the spare tire, it is completely hidden, in a low location, and doesn't waste room for other things you could be using your storage bins for, like storing items, a fire extinguisher, stereo equipment, etc, etc. It's extremely sturdy and is custom-built for this specific car unlike other "universal" battery boxes.
#9
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Originally posted by Turbo 3
Who here keeps the front fiberglass beam vs. a FMIC? Doesn't matter much if the person is going over 40 anyhow...you're rear end is toast
Think of it this way, getting hit hard in the rear would be a safety factor in that it would automatically cut off the battery and turn off the fuel pump!!!
Who here keeps the front fiberglass beam vs. a FMIC? Doesn't matter much if the person is going over 40 anyhow...you're rear end is toast
Think of it this way, getting hit hard in the rear would be a safety factor in that it would automatically cut off the battery and turn off the fuel pump!!!
looks like a nice kit. unfortunately, being a member of bfh racing, i wouldn't have 250 to dump on battery relocation.
#10
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That's just a prototype cost, I'm getting bids in from a couple places so it may be cheaper. This initial posting is just to get peoples' opinions and judge interest level.