Got the front clip done. It is removable with only four bolts. The entire front clip including the coolers come off with these 4 bolts!

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1352003200

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1352003200

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1352003200

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1352003200

jeez... what the heck are you building... I almost want it to be rotary now, haha

Haha I am trying to KISS (keep it simple stupid) while making everything work well. I think this is the 3rd time I have done the coolers and 3rd time's the charm by the looks of it.
Sometimes I think about throwing in the 20B PP drysump that is sitting around. But saving that for the tube chassis. (Although this car is pretty much a tube chassis anyways haha)

Started building the frame for the dash and the interior panels. Also started building the box around the exhaust to seal it from the driver's compartment.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1352679814

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1352679814

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1352679814

Looking good!

Thanks!

New update! Been slowly working on the chassis trying to get all the welding done!

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1355107936

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1355107936

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1355107936

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1355107936

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1355107936

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1355107936

where have you been! Im just so curious what a 700hp turbo miata motor street FC would be like.... that might be waaay too much pipe dream... about as much as still finding a 20b...

Your cage work is coming out nice.

It is 600hp! 700 will be pushing it!
Thanks, slowly getting the sheet metal done.

I spent the first major years of my car life in the miata world. I know the motors are beefy... but what kind of longevity would you get out of a turbo 600hp BP? Whats your redline/powerband? (are you making a 2.0 or leaving at 1.8?)

Could this motor setup let you keep up with 2j's and other bigdog cars?

Well it seems like keeping a transmission or turbo together on track is more of a problem than the engine itself as long as there is proper cooling for oil and water. It is bored to 1.91L, so between the two.
Well the car with fuel and me in it weighs around 1950lb. So unless big dig cars are light or have monster power, will be hard for them to match the power to weight ratio! I am sure my car will be a handful, but hoping my rear suspension design and slicks help!

Went back and read some more stuff/checked the website... I think most of my questions got re-answered... I might pop back up with more.

This thing is fucking retarded. Its not even an FB anymore, much less a car or rx7. Very apples to oranges. Whatever it is, its just going to destroy. You've done amazing work creating a machine.

+1 for racepak

-1 for racepak software...

Thanks! Yeah definitely slowly got out of hand. As my dad says it would've been cheaper, easier, and faster to just build a tube chassis! At least I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

Any questions you have, just post it!

No doubt, eh! The most non-logical software I have ever seen. It totally doesn't make sense! Apparently there is a new version out, but unless they redesign the interface, still same old crap!

there really are no words here ...
there is so much right with this car. i love it! looks like a labor of love that's coming together the right way. any projection on when it will be ready to run?

any reason for choosing a 4-link? just curious. seems most guys prefer a 3-link + watts

Thanks! I don't like to set dates since a few of them have come and gone already but doing my best to have it on track this year hoping for spring or at the latest beginning of summer.

It is a much superior system (I know people will argue about it). The 3-link is mostly since it fits much easier in the stock setup and around the stock system. It is pretty much impossible without cutting most of the back-end to get this to fit in the car.

The nice thing about the 4 link is that there is absolutely no lateral movement in the system. In addition with proper spring rates this system will most likely not need a sway bar in the back.

Also worth noting, the tri-link (3rd link) was developed for adherence to SCCA IT rules regarding the addition or subtraction of "traction bars". I believe the reason you see them the most is the fact someone developed a bolt on solution and many people do not have the ability to fabricate their own solution.

-billy

That is correct! An I would like to point out that there is nothing wrong with the tri-link since most of the short-coming can be eliminated or limited by proper design. However since most of the rear of the car was already cut, I figured might as well go with something that works the best. You can see the "over-kill" theme in this build haha

Nice build so far. :icon_tup:

Thank you! It's about to get nicer as we have started on the interior sheet metal!

Nice, please post some pictures. :nod:

this is rad!

I will post some more pictures. I keep forgetting to take some!

Thanks!