If I eliminate the console trim, is there a good way to relocate the switches I would lose?

I think they're non-critical but I would at least like to keep the defogger since my car doesn't have fog lights. I don't remember what the other switch was, since I've never actually driven it. If there was a third switch at all.


For the record, the car won't have an audio system, so I'll have two DINs worth of real estate to work with, I think.

Are there any ways to spruce up the exposed edges of the stock trim when you start removing parts of the interior? Somehow race cars never look as ghetto as a car that's simply missing parts of the interior.

 

This is what I did...





It's hinged at the bottom with a thumb screw at the top.

Guy

 

Very clean. I wonder how much I can do without modifying the stock harness. What sort of tranny are you using, given such a drastic relocation of the shifter hole?

 

With the stock harness, there sure are a ton of wires under there! This car has a GForce 4 speed (GF4A).

 

BTW, are you not making a heel plate? I think that floor member would tend to get in the way.

 

Built by Bill Lackey originally.... I bought it from him.... now Cameron Rogers owns it locally.

It ran a GForce GSR 4spd dog box with internal shift rails. Much more compact and shifted incredibly fast.

The entire chassis was stripped bare, media blasted and then powdercoated white. That is a diff cooler/pump setup out back.
Cobra 8.8" IRS diff with essentially infinite gear ratio options.

 

I assume the tranny tunnel had to be pretty heavily modified? That definitely wouldn't work with an RHD car...haha.

So clean though!

Wow, it even has an interior firewall between the driver and the fuel system. And JRZs... Two ways?

Are those pull-up belts or pull-down?

 

Switches group into 2x 8 conductor wires, 8 colors each, 8 grounds for each switch, and then run to fuse boxes in trunk to trigger relays to then power the devices. Haven't wired up engine stuff yet, but for blinkers, turn signals, etc I find it alot more simplistic, and was able to gut all of the stock snakes.

 

This is a tremendous amount of work. Greatness!

 

Love the simplicity of the dashboard!

 

Very pretty. I wouldn't even know where to start modifying the body electrical system.

Did you completely gut the doors for the door bars?

 

Thanks,

Yes, totally gutted, just pull on the cable to open hehe

You can totally pull of the wiring if you ever decide to go that route just PM me its not as bad as you'd think

 

Can you tell about your fire system? What happens when you pull the fire cable? Halon suppression?

 

Here's a fairly dusty rhd minus it's motec dash at the time, runs a hollinger -



On the car here, just run an aluminium blanking panel like the others, electric screen, diff and gearbox pumps, start and ignition plus a few conveniences - that by rights, shouldn't be on a racecar!

Monsterbox, looks like the forward leg of that cage is fairly obtrusive...distance from A pillar for sightlines and the footwell, how do you find it? Normally bad enough in a rhd when the box section support comes off the sill too far and interferes with loud pedal operation.

 

On RHD cars bolt-in cages are a huge pita since they made it very hard to heel-toe. I'm not looking forward to that.

 

Yea it kinda blocks view a little but not much I can do about that now, just have to look around it. And unfortunately the bars stick out so much that I had to gut the insides of the doors, completely.

The cool part is now the doors look super clean as the insides are painted gloss to match exterior and it gives illusion of more room for arms. Opening is done by just pulling simple cable which will be mounted to the support beam.

The windows did have to be removed/cut out. Going to come back later on and make plexi-glass windows, weld some brackets along the window support frame, and drill into brackets for removeable plexi. For now, windows are least priority, thing will never be driven in rain.

Its a popular company, Kirk Racing. He welded the cage in and I painted it before finding out the fitment issues.

 

MORE PICS. I need RHD car ideas!

 

http://www.rollbar.jp/images/c28_fd3s_2_b009.jpg

This is what an RHD bolt-in cage looks like in the front, even when you go through the dash.

 

HOLY SH*T hahaha, that looks like a broken leg waiting to happen. O wait, i can't hit the brake pedal, my leg is missing.

 

Total pita with everything back together. Do know someone here who had the whole leg from main hoop cut out and redone, but that was related to helmet clearance with the FD cant rail, we did have several goes at the cross in the roof for the same reasons too.

Bit far for you, this guy does nice molded acrylic windows Sandbrooks Marine Glazing - For Marine Windows, Windscreens, Windshields & Doors there's also a mob over there who do composite doors, but I'd hesitate to recommend them with all the BS we experienced.

Amazing, didn't think they did anything beyond dog leg cages, avoiding going through the dash at all costs! Not sure what the requirements are over there, usual problem here is the dimension of the reinforcing foot plate which takes up all the sill real estate then intrudes into the footwell if the installer doesn't make it a priority to get the cage leg right up against the shell.

There's another problem you can encounter as well, if you still have electrics in the doors. I've had to install new harnesses in one car, where the door plug was totally inaccessible with the cage in place....soldering lots of little wires there in a kama sutra position, one of my favourite jobs.

Don't have any pics of that area on hand. Only one I have in the general vicinity - and one not to emulate probably - is a bit of a Sainz reinforcement on the intrusion bars, side impact might guarantee broken knees/tibia or sore shins at least, don't understand why it was done that way - not for this little black duck.

 

The vast majority of bolt-in cages avoid the dash. But all cages are available as through-dash versions. It's apparently a huge PITA to install.

I'm gonna have to make or buy a foot plate like that... you don't have the measurements or a pattern do you?

 

BTW, what sort of heatproofing on the tranny/downpipe tunnel do you have to keep the driver for catching on fire? lol

 

Normally it would be padded, but the main issue is that it makes is super-duper hard to heel and toe.

 

No measurements on the floor pieces. In our case, just aluminium checkerplate roughly trimmed to size on the bandsaw, then cleaned up to fit with linisher and file. A couple of alloy rib extrusions underneath to make it level and fibreglass batt material between the floor and the plate.

We used foundry refractory insulation behind the factory sub-floor metal heat shields - along with coast fabrication silver reflective tape on nearby surfaces to minimize heat intrusion, a stainless shield on the gearbox was made up too.

That carbon footplate would have been made by Pollard, carbon man on here. Not sure if there's a mold as such, probably a bit of flat carbon the boys have trimmed to size, there's also a knee rest, looks similar.....