nofords

iTrader: (9)

Yah, I do the run what you brung BS and change out later. That's the beauty of the fully adjustable suspension that you can dial in as your driving style progresses.

I was "swayed" away from stiff anti-roll systems as they tend to raise the inside tire off the ground. if you loose the tire, you loose your possible cornering ability.

I actually don't have a sway in the rear, partly due to cash flow and partly because the other 3rd linked rear ends at the track survive quite will without them. I am not removing any mounts or bushing bosses, just leaving it for later!!

Kentetsu

Interesting. Even with the Respeed front bar, which is by far the stiffest I have found, I have not seen any sign of wheel lift. That may be due to my ride height though, I don't get much roll or anything else with it.

Most track guys seem to like running without a rear bar. Autocrossers seem to be of mixed opinion.... My opinion is, the stiffer the front bar, the stiffer the rear bar you can run. Working great so far.

gkmccready

I had the MazdaComp IT suspension on my car way too many years ago now and I was autocrossing it. It had a bolt-in cage at the time, too. Even with the Eibach (or Suspension Techniques?) swaybars they provided I would easily lift the inside front wheel with the bars on their softest settings.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

also, don't forget, I'm running FC subframe in the front so that changes my track a little with the tires I'm running so I am a little wider front/rear than a stock FB (about 1.5" wider front and 2.25" wider rear track)

Bruceman

iTrader: (5)

Hey Kentetsu you must not be going fast enough

Kentetsu

You know what? Maybe that is the problem! I'll try taking that block of wood out from under my gas pedal and see if that helps, or maybe I'll hook up my secondaries on my carb. You think that would get me there?

nofords

iTrader: (9)

The easiest thing might be to choose not to eat that second cheese burger before the race!

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

Very Neat thread,

I would almost have to say that the wheel lifting off the ground would be due to a softer spring option though. If you think about it, if the one side can compress easily, all the load can go towards there and causing a lift on the other side with a stiff sway bar. So you can't just take a really stiff sway bar and and toss it on soft springs as it could induce that factor.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Again, that's where my adjustable shocks should compensate.

I'm using a TII sway bar so it may be too strong to begin with. I will increase my spring rate should my car demand it.

I have similar springs on my Toyota Matrix (250#F and 190#R w/stock shocks) and I was out on the track this weekend and it was fairly decent with the rims/tires i have in the photos on the previous page. The car is slightly heavier than my car will be (2800lbs) and somewhat more top-heavy.

BTW, I've re-calculated my minimum weight with the new 2010 WCMA rules and I can be as low as 1703lbs if I go for GT1 class!

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Plumbing, plumbing and more plumbing.

I've bent so much tubing and line I don't want to have to do it for a long long time.

OK, sorry for the long delay for those of you who are following along! I am under a time crunch here and haven't really been able to take time for photos and in-depth posts along the way.

I've been dealing with miss-shipped parts or parts that weren't shipped at all, parts that didn't fit and waiting for parts to replace parts that I had....bla bla bla. All part of the game, Right?

Finally got my front calipers on. I have to mill one side's mounting flange because they are re-mans, and the tolerances aren't the same as the factory and bind on the rotor. Nevertheless i have them installed including yellow stuff pads all round with braided lines throughout. My entire front end has a complete brake system and the rears are complete C-C up to the body. I have to run from the MC to the proportioning valve to the hydraulic e-brake (shown in the second photo, strictly for holding the car while loading/unloading it) and then to the body connection to the rear.



Hydraulic Handbrake and Short Shifter. I won't be using that ****. Although it is weighted, it is tiny. My XXL mitts with gloves on cant grip it.



I've been working on assembling the engine too. I have it 90% complete with the balance being the upper dynamic chamber and TB mods to accomodate the MSII i will be running. As you can see in the photos, i have my gay pink (supposed to be red) intercooler piping complete, turbo feed and drain complete, powersteering lines done and 90% of the fuel lines are done.



To complete my upper chamber, i need to complete the wiring for the injectors. I was waiting 3wks to get my "forgotten" injector clips from the vendor i used. The unfortunate part is that I need to paint the interior before my harness is installed to make things a little neater and easier for masking etc. I plan on making my bulkhead for the rear fuel cell this week so I can get the car off to the exhaust no later than next week. I really want the car to be ready to go for May 29, 30 races but i don't know if I can make it!

Here is the latest thing I have been working on...my dash. Its coming along nicely and i've got the hole cut for the tach. I am going to pick up an appropriate size holesaw for the rest.



And I have been doing some painting and body work. Here is a sneak peak of my color scheme...no more peaking until its complete!



got the car on all fours tonight for the first touchdown since last October. what a relief and joy it is to see it on the ground. I have 1.5" of gaposis above the tire to the frame horn in the front and the rear tucks about 2" of tire. The fenders need to be rolled front and rear. once the car is rolling nice, I can take my bat to it. One more thing, the car can go lower, but it is currently sitting on the DP of the wastegate.



Cheers everyone!

Darin

food7373

iTrader: (2)

Great build so far! Can't wait to see it done.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Ok, It's been a few weeks since my last update. I missed my deadline of May 29th for the first race of the season. I ended up having to race my 1984 Supra which isn't a bad car to drive, it just looks nasty!



Anyways, With that let down, I am determined to make it to the next event with the car and have been diligently working on many things.

Mainly, I've been working on finishing the floors and making my bulkhead to cover the fuel cell as per the WCMA rule book.



I have also painted the interior white. Here is a photo after my first coat...



I have completed the mockup of my dash...



Now that I have completed the basic frame of my dash, now I can go ahead and start wiring everything. I hope to have it fired this week. The car goes in for exhaust on Wednesday.

Cheers

MountainScreamer

Hell yeah I like the way that dash looks. Nice and simple!

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

There is allot of really nice metal work going on here.

Are you planning on bracing the panhard rod mount on the rear axle? Failures at this mount are common. I have seen this on Mustangs and RX7's alike. here is how I braced mine



Also - curious why you mounted the fuel cell above the floor and not below it?

Thanks for the thread

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Thanks! I have it installed now and will post a pic of that soon.

Yes I have. I have the brace going from the link to the frame.

The tank is not actually mounted above the floor, more 2/3 below 1/3 above! However, A few reasons why it is mounted where it is...

1) The tank is flush with the bottom of the rearward frame. Should the car loose a wheel or drop off the pavement into a tire rut, the frame will contact first.

2) I need to maintain a certain distance (>6") to the ground on the u/s of the tank (as per wcma rules). My car will be between 2.5" and 5" on ground clearance and the tank will be installed at 4" higher than the lowest point on the car so at a minimum, it will be 6.5" off the ground.

3) my fuel pump is external. To keep it mounted on the frame rail out of harms way, I needed to mount the tank high to maintain gravity feed. As it is, the fuel pump is inline with the bottom of the tank. The sump is below the pump by 1/2"

4) the tank is large (15gal) There is actually more tank below the car than in the trunk. The bulkhead is really tall because It was easier to just block off the trunk rather than make a stepped cover.

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=nofords;10044155]Thanks! I have it installed now and will post a pic of that soon.

Yes I have. I have the brace going from the link to the frame.

The tank is not actually mounted above the floor, more 2/3 below 1/3 above! However, A few reasons why it is mounted where it is...

1) The tank is flush with the bottom of the rearward frame. Should the car loose a wheel or drop off the pavement into a tire rut, the frame will contact first.

2) I need to maintain a certain distance (>6") to the ground on the u/s of the tank (as per wcma rules). My car will be between 2.5" and 5" on ground clearance and the tank will be installed at 4" higher than the lowest point on the car so at a minimum, it will be 6.5" off the ground.

3) my fuel pump is external. To keep it mounted on the frame rail out of harms way, I needed to mount the tank high to maintain gravity feed. As it is, the fuel pump is inline with the bottom of the tank. The sump is below the pump by 1/2"

4) the tank is large (15gal) There is actually more tank below the car than in the trunk. The bulkhead is really tall because It was easier to just block off the trunk rather than make a stepped cover.[/QUOTE

We have the same cell clearance rule in the SCCA. A car in my shop lost a rear wheel (axle failure) and the cell didn't contact the ground with 6" of ground clearance. The exhaust absorbed the blow.

The ground clearance spec for that car is measured from the rocker pannel above the pinch weld. From that point it is 5" off the ground but the exhaust hangs lower than that.

This car:

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Yup. Same thing.

My exhaust will also be lower than the 5".

My fuel tank sump is about 1/2" below the rear panel of the car. Honestly, looking back on it now (actually a little while ago) i should have changed the position of the tank.

My car goes in for exhaust tomorrow and if there is clearance issues, I will move the tank over to the driver's side, and down.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

The car has been in for an exhaust. I have 3" throughout with a SS flo-pro max muffler and tip. Not too keen on the tip but since I wasn't paying for it, I wasn't going to complain. I'll get a shot of the exhaust when the car goes back on the lift.

Got my dash mounted. Working on the wiring now. Should have it all tidied up tomorrow.



Just a couple of random pictures...

On the trailer going for exhaust



Looking at this photo, the stance isn't too bad. I'd like the car to be lower but I'm not sure If i can get it too much more!

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

you could go lower with different wheels.

nofords

iTrader: (9)

This is true. I like the look of the 16" wheels on the car!

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Excuse the mess. This is the first time since September of last year that this thing has been out of the shop...and under it's own power no less!

Yes it smokes. I'm running premix and for the first few miles I am going to run 50:1 mixed fuel. It also smokes cuz I am running +/- 12.0 AFR's.

I have an issue with my wastegate. It seems to be open at idle. I pulled the vacuum line off and it didn't make any difference. I have two ports on this "HKS Style" 50mm wastegate. I currently have it in the body or "side" port not the head or "top" port. From what i can find, it would seem that the side port is for basic function and the top port is a reference for a boost controller correct? Anyone have any thoughts?

First Time Out!

nofords

iTrader: (9)

If anyone is following this:

Here is a photo of what it looks like now. The flares will be painted orange to match the car.



I had it running at the track. When it's in boost (full boost by 4k rpm) it goes like a scalded cat. It is stupid with regular rubber on.

I have a 20s video that was taken last weekend I will up load it shortly.

The only issue I have is that when it hits boost, it falls flat on it's face. You have to nurse it past 0mm/hg. I haven't quite figured out what is going on. I think it's either my FPR or my fuel pump.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

like!

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

Looking Good

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Here is that 20s video of it moving...proof that it actually works!

It was pouring rain and stupidly windy for the maiden voyage.

I have to curve it's appetite for fuel. In about 10laps (12mi) I used approx 11gal of fuel! Yeah baby...1.1mpg! At this rate and 15gal cell, I will run out of fuel before the end of a race of 15 laps! This of course assuming that it will drink more when i actually get out of 3rd gear!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pkcf-xCyAZ8

I found out that my fueling issue was a bit of both the FPR and pump.

at full throttle, my engine demands 5600cc (1.25gal) per minute or 336lph at 50psi. The pump I have is only good for 280 at 45psi or 250 at 50psi.
I am in the process of adding an additional pump so hopefully i can get the 336 I need!

Ive replaced the FPR with an authentic A-1006 instead of the knockoff. Not sure if this was a big deal or not but I had it so we shall see. More vids to come this weekend (I hope)!