85 GSL for CSP, keep stock brake/rear setup, or upgrade to GSL-SE?
01-27-09, 07:21 AM
#26
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Scott is right on. The hot setup is KC Raceware (if allowed per rule set) front hubs and gsl large bearing rear. KC will build you a set to whatever bolt pattern you want.
06-25-10, 06:15 PM
#27
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Despite the 4X110mm lug pattern, my vote would be for the GSL brakes because they are lighter and more than up to the task of stopping your car. I club race my car and the GSL brakes are all that I am allowed (Improved Touring A). Despite repeated 100+mph braking I have never had any brake fade.....ever. Invest in good pads (Hawk, PFS, Poterfield, etc) and high temp fluid (Motul, Wilwood, Ford HD Dot3, etc) and you'll be fine.
For comparison's sake, my RX7 (2470lbs w/driver) car runs 400lb/250lb front/rear springs on the track with no rear sway bar. For Solo I run 300lb/250lb front/rear springs (also with no rear bar) and I remove as much rebound dampening from the shocks as possible. My car also has a tri-link rear suspension.
The E Production race cars (2300lb w/driver) that run in this area run 450lb/200-250lb front/rear springs and they run sticky 9.5 slicks. All of them run 4 link rear suspensions with no rear sway bar as well.
As far as whether or not an FB is competitive in CSP.....I think they are. Focus on maximum tire width, light weight components and run a 13B. I have seen several nationally competitive RX7's in CSP. Good luck to both of you
For comparison's sake, my RX7 (2470lbs w/driver) car runs 400lb/250lb front/rear springs on the track with no rear sway bar. For Solo I run 300lb/250lb front/rear springs (also with no rear bar) and I remove as much rebound dampening from the shocks as possible. My car also has a tri-link rear suspension.
The E Production race cars (2300lb w/driver) that run in this area run 450lb/200-250lb front/rear springs and they run sticky 9.5 slicks. All of them run 4 link rear suspensions with no rear sway bar as well.
As far as whether or not an FB is competitive in CSP.....I think they are. Focus on maximum tire width, light weight components and run a 13B. I have seen several nationally competitive RX7's in CSP. Good luck to both of you
I now run Canadian rotors and Carbotech pads using 3" ducts and I experience no more brake issues (cracked rotors) with the car. Fluid is Ate' blue. The Carbotechs are light years ahead of the Hawks in all categories.
I just got some 90 mm screw in studs through Vorschlag.com in order to run 0.5" spacers and the older "turbine" wheel. These BMW studs are superior to anything out there. They also come in 70mm.
I hate that JC Whitney crap they call spacers so I'm having a set of billets made up.
Right now I'm using a 350 front spring with a 'who knows' rear. I suspect 175, but there are no marks and they are not Eibachs. They are straight wound 5.5" x 11"s (flat top, std bottom).
I have all the other Pro-7 mods and I'm looking for something just the next step up in the spring category. I think a 400 front spring might work better. I not sure if a 225 or 250 would work better for my driving style. I really like the tail out attitude so the 250 might work better. I run no rear bar either.
Thoughts?
06-28-10, 09:35 PM
#29
Interesting setups. My car is a Pro-7 (called various things around the country), but uses the Mazda motorsports suspension package. Weighs in at 2400 w/driver.
I now run Canadian rotors and Carbotech pads using 3" ducts and I experience no more brake issues (cracked rotors) with the car. Fluid is Ate' blue. The Carbotechs are light years ahead of the Hawks in all categories.
I just got some 90 mm screw in studs through Vorschlag.com in order to run 0.5" spacers and the older "turbine" wheel. These BMW studs are superior to anything out there. They also come in 70mm.
I hate that JC Whitney crap they call spacers so I'm having a set of billets made up.
Right now I'm using a 350 front spring with a 'who knows' rear. I suspect 175, but there are no marks and they are not Eibachs. They are straight wound 5.5" x 11"s (flat top, std bottom).
I have all the other Pro-7 mods and I'm looking for something just the next step up in the spring category. I think a 400 front spring might work better. I not sure if a 225 or 250 would work better for my driving style. I really like the tail out attitude so the 250 might work better. I run no rear bar either.
Thoughts?
I now run Canadian rotors and Carbotech pads using 3" ducts and I experience no more brake issues (cracked rotors) with the car. Fluid is Ate' blue. The Carbotechs are light years ahead of the Hawks in all categories.
I just got some 90 mm screw in studs through Vorschlag.com in order to run 0.5" spacers and the older "turbine" wheel. These BMW studs are superior to anything out there. They also come in 70mm.
I hate that JC Whitney crap they call spacers so I'm having a set of billets made up.
Right now I'm using a 350 front spring with a 'who knows' rear. I suspect 175, but there are no marks and they are not Eibachs. They are straight wound 5.5" x 11"s (flat top, std bottom).
I have all the other Pro-7 mods and I'm looking for something just the next step up in the spring category. I think a 400 front spring might work better. I not sure if a 225 or 250 would work better for my driving style. I really like the tail out attitude so the 250 might work better. I run no rear bar either.
Thoughts?
I am switch my car from IT to Super Touring so my spring rates will go up to accomodate the wider wheels I get to run.
I am also going to run FC Turbo brakes (using the Re Speed big brake kit) and will being looking a pad options. I always had great service from the Hawk Blues but they were super hard on rotors. Will look at the Carbotechs for sure.
06-29-10, 03:39 PM
#30
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I'll have to take a pic of some of my old rotors and what they look like after 6 races with Hawks. And then another with the Carbotechs. With the Hawks I get fine cracks everywhere and then the big one. With the Carbotechs, nothing but a smooth black surface.
They stop just as well, offer less dust and last almost one season. Win, win, win.
They stop just as well, offer less dust and last almost one season. Win, win, win.
06-29-10, 11:18 PM
#31
I'll have to take a pic of some of my old rotors and what they look like after 6 races with Hawks. And then another with the Carbotechs. With the Hawks I get fine cracks everywhere and then the big one. With the Carbotechs, nothing but a smooth black surface.
They stop just as well, offer less dust and last almost one season. Win, win, win.
They stop just as well, offer less dust and last almost one season. Win, win, win.
I haven't had any rotor cracking issues but the Blues do grind away rotor material.
Look forward to seeing your pic's
07-07-10, 09:55 PM
#33
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