-6 AN fuel rail bungs
#1
SCCAEP
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
-6 AN fuel rail bungs
During my complete ground up rebuild I am plumbing the car in all -6AN braided hose. The rear was done before from the cell to hard lines, I'm addressing the front during the rebuild.
I'll be running braided hose under the car and the inlet to a CM canister 1 micron fuel filter, out a Y block with parallel lines to each rail and returning to an Aeromotive regulator before going back to the cell.
I have cut the fuel rails, S5 NA streetport motor, and have a question on the bungs.
Do you see an issue with TIG welding 7/16" washers on the end of each rail and then TIG welding the steel -6AN bungs to the washers? It's not a "smooth flow" so to speak as the washer will create a wall, but shouldn't be an issue, right?
Let's not change my setup too much, I have alreay bought all the parts
I'll be running braided hose under the car and the inlet to a CM canister 1 micron fuel filter, out a Y block with parallel lines to each rail and returning to an Aeromotive regulator before going back to the cell.
I have cut the fuel rails, S5 NA streetport motor, and have a question on the bungs.
Do you see an issue with TIG welding 7/16" washers on the end of each rail and then TIG welding the steel -6AN bungs to the washers? It's not a "smooth flow" so to speak as the washer will create a wall, but shouldn't be an issue, right?
Let's not change my setup too much, I have alreay bought all the parts
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Funny, my S5 rails were almost a perfect fit to the AN-6 steel bungs. I Mig welded them on, leak tested, repaired a small leak and they've been fine for a few years at 400 rwhp. I would have TIG welded them but my Mig skills were much better at that point. With the amount of aluminum welding I've done lately with the TIG I'd probably try it this time. Given what I've seen in some aftermarket rails I really wouldn't be worried about the flat step. Weld the bungs to the washers then the washer to the rails as it should be easier to get to the bungs before the washers are attached to the rails.
-Trent
-Trent
#4
SCCAEP
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Any easy way to do this? The TIG welding I had done by some guy and it looks decent, but I don't want to find out after I put the motor in there is a pin hole.
The only thing I could think of was bolt them up and hook up the fuel lines...is that my only option?
The only thing I could think of was bolt them up and hook up the fuel lines...is that my only option?
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
leak testing
I took some AN-6 hose, put a fitting on one end and jammed a air compressor fitting in the other end. pushed some rubber plugs I had laying around in the fuel injector holes, taped them in there with duct tape. I put another chunk of hose with a fitting on one end and a bolt jammed in and clamped in the other. Using an in-line pressure regulator I pulled the rail up to 40 psi and put soapy water over the whole rail. I had a small leak and it bubbled up quite quick. A little cleaning, some welding and re-test and no leaks. Be cautious with this approach as 40 psi doesn't sound like much, but it will shoot a little rubber plug pretty far.
-Trent
-Trent
Trending Topics
#9
SCCAEP
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This has turned into a nightmare project. I am having a guy with a welding degree TIG the bungs as I only know how to MIG. We have spent at least 6 hours over multiple days and evenings so far on the fuel rails. Finally got one done and to hold, the other one is so jacked up that we decided to scrap it and start over. I've got to get another donor rail first.
We pressure tested at 70 PSI and used some leak detection spray (thicker than soapy water and better). Used the air compressor method with a cap on one end and hose on the other. The injector ports were plugged with some rubber caps and held in with a bench vise.
Trying to get leak proof at 70 PSI is proving difficult.
We pressure tested at 70 PSI and used some leak detection spray (thicker than soapy water and better). Used the air compressor method with a cap on one end and hose on the other. The injector ports were plugged with some rubber caps and held in with a bench vise.
Trying to get leak proof at 70 PSI is proving difficult.
#10
10 lb. boost, 5lb. bag
iTrader: (1)
Just get your hands on some S4 rails, you can screw AN fittings straight into them and you're done. Here's Ted's article on the matter with pictures and part sizes included:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/fpr.htm
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/fpr.htm
#11
SCCAEP
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just get your hands on some S4 rails, you can screw AN fittings straight into them and you're done. Here's Ted's article on the matter with pictures and part sizes included:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/fpr.htm
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/fpr.htm
I'd much rather screw on fittings for both rails if it could work.