Power FC Testing injector drivers
#1
I won't let go
Thread Starter
Testing injector drivers
This may have been asked and answered already, but I didn't see anything that would help so...
I'll try to keep this brief.
For about three years, I was running 1600cc secondaries with the somewhat typical 10 ohm resistors, though they were 1/2 watt. Yeah, I know I should have used a higher wattage...let's go on though...primaries were stock 850's so no worries there.
Fast forward to now and was using the same 1600's and now have Simens 865cc for primaries which necessitated the same 10 ohm resistors. It's apparently been documented that the PFC doesn't like resistors in the primary spot. Guess the thing has a tendancy to shut off at high RPM. At any rate, this led me to the FJO box. Everything's wired up, and I'll skip my mistakes, some of which lead me to question how the thing was ever running at all...but let's just say everything is working...pressure is at 40 psi base, I'm getting spark front and rear, I've tested the wiring from the ECU clip to the injectors and each one is able to fire and for ***** and giggles, I even tested compression and we're good.
As of now, it's seems that I'm running on just the front rotor. After a few startup attempts, which end quicker if it were on one rotor, the rear exhaust runner is cold. The ONLY thing that's changed is the fact that I now have this FJO box in place. My theory is that I stressed the hell outta the drivers on the PFC and this was the final straw for them to give up the ghost so...my question is, other than the obvious swap out the thing, is there a way to test the ECU firing.
It switches ground, so theoritically I can:
1) Check continuity from that lead to ground
2) Check for voltage from that lead to some positive source
My only concern is that for as quickly as they're firing, my multimeter may not read it that fast.
I don't know what the prodcedure is for this and it may be in the FSM so...
This is my indoctrination here. In the five years I've owned it, I've NEVER had any issues with this thing.
ANY help would be greatly appreciated or any other thought to what I could be missing.
Thanks!!!!
Christian
I'll try to keep this brief.
For about three years, I was running 1600cc secondaries with the somewhat typical 10 ohm resistors, though they were 1/2 watt. Yeah, I know I should have used a higher wattage...let's go on though...primaries were stock 850's so no worries there.
Fast forward to now and was using the same 1600's and now have Simens 865cc for primaries which necessitated the same 10 ohm resistors. It's apparently been documented that the PFC doesn't like resistors in the primary spot. Guess the thing has a tendancy to shut off at high RPM. At any rate, this led me to the FJO box. Everything's wired up, and I'll skip my mistakes, some of which lead me to question how the thing was ever running at all...but let's just say everything is working...pressure is at 40 psi base, I'm getting spark front and rear, I've tested the wiring from the ECU clip to the injectors and each one is able to fire and for ***** and giggles, I even tested compression and we're good.
As of now, it's seems that I'm running on just the front rotor. After a few startup attempts, which end quicker if it were on one rotor, the rear exhaust runner is cold. The ONLY thing that's changed is the fact that I now have this FJO box in place. My theory is that I stressed the hell outta the drivers on the PFC and this was the final straw for them to give up the ghost so...my question is, other than the obvious swap out the thing, is there a way to test the ECU firing.
It switches ground, so theoritically I can:
1) Check continuity from that lead to ground
2) Check for voltage from that lead to some positive source
My only concern is that for as quickly as they're firing, my multimeter may not read it that fast.
I don't know what the prodcedure is for this and it may be in the FSM so...
This is my indoctrination here. In the five years I've owned it, I've NEVER had any issues with this thing.
ANY help would be greatly appreciated or any other thought to what I could be missing.
Thanks!!!!
Christian
Last edited by Railgun; 08-28-07 at 09:37 PM.
#2
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: chandler, AZ
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have somebody crank it w/o spark so it won't start... Hold a longass screwdriver up against your ear and touch it to the injector. If its working, you'll be able to hear it clicking on and off. Probably should unplug the fuel pump so it doesn't flood also.
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trickster
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07-01-23 04:40 PM