Power FC still having idle problems!!!
still having idle problems!!!
Ok, I've researched many threads, I've tried to manually adjust the idle. Nothing seems to work. Ever since I had my PFC tuned, I have an idle problem. Sometimes it idles at 800-900 and sometimes it's up around 1200. When I come to a stop and put it in neutral, it sits around 1200-1400, then starts to slowly come down. I also have this really annoying problem of starting a warm car and my rpm's shoot to 3000 and then bounce from 1500-2000 for 10-20 seconds and then corrects itself. I have the fan mod and if I run it this doesn't happen but that can't be the only answer, why does it all of a sudden do this ( I know it's something to do with the wax rod and AWS), and how can I stop it? I have also noticed that while my rpm's sit at 1200 or so my vaccuum is at 16ish, but as I sit there idleing and the rpm's work themslves down to 800-900, my vaccuum goes to anywhere from 12-14hg. What could be causing this? Thanks in advance for all your help.
First eliminate any posible problems caused by leaking gaskets or vacuum hoses.
Then find someone who fully understands how to adjust both the MAZDA idle control systems, and the PFC.
Or bring it here to Houston, Kyle and I can fix it!
Then find someone who fully understands how to adjust both the MAZDA idle control systems, and the PFC.
Or bring it here to Houston, Kyle and I can fix it!
I threw this onto another thread, but more relevant here, so presuming NO problems or faults with the car:
90% of power fc idle probs can be sorted easy:
use datalogit to remove the map from the ECU, then, with a COLD engine (IMPORTANT) initialise the ECU...put in basic settings only (injectors etc) and assuming the idle valve was set about right before... start the car.
It will oscillate a lot to start with, make sure NOTHING is turned on in the car and DONT TOUCH the throttle (if it wont crack up, open the idle valve a little and try again)
1)first 10 mins NOTHING ON
2)next 10 mins A/C only on
3)last 10 mins EVERTHING ON (lights/ A/C/ fans/ heated screen etc.)
this completes the self-learn, download your full map back again, the cold start is separate within the ECU and is not altered by map changes...
worth a go guys! works on every single EVO, SKYLINE, 200sx and STI I've ever done...(people do have different views on what to turn on and when, heated screen only, then everything etc. but sometimes thats not enough and stalls when the A/C kicks in, skylines especially)
90% of power fc idle probs can be sorted easy:
use datalogit to remove the map from the ECU, then, with a COLD engine (IMPORTANT) initialise the ECU...put in basic settings only (injectors etc) and assuming the idle valve was set about right before... start the car.
It will oscillate a lot to start with, make sure NOTHING is turned on in the car and DONT TOUCH the throttle (if it wont crack up, open the idle valve a little and try again)
1)first 10 mins NOTHING ON
2)next 10 mins A/C only on
3)last 10 mins EVERTHING ON (lights/ A/C/ fans/ heated screen etc.)
this completes the self-learn, download your full map back again, the cold start is separate within the ECU and is not altered by map changes...
worth a go guys! works on every single EVO, SKYLINE, 200sx and STI I've ever done...(people do have different views on what to turn on and when, heated screen only, then everything etc. but sometimes thats not enough and stalls when the A/C kicks in, skylines especially)
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barkz
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